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Guest stillbroKen

Frozen brake?

7 posts in this topic

Kenmore model 110 won't spin and does loud wompwomp sound from break area.

Replaced coupler & clutch & removed inner tub, exact same noise.

Ok, so what does a stuck break usually sound like and what are the most obvious symtoms?

Thanks

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

It's not the brake, it's the brake cam:

wpddwashbasketdrive.jpg?dc=4675515877463181674

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A brake cam came in the bag with the new clutch so I replaced it also, original was not damaged but then again neither were the clutch (which may or may not have had a weak spring (5yrs old)) and the motor coupler. With the whompwhomp pesisting even with the inner tub removed I am ruling out the drive block.

I am pursuing this project via the process of elimination and have narrowed it down to either something causing the brake to ingage or the machine is not plugged in.

I won't even ask what a malfunctioning gear case sounds like.

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Run the washer with the cabinet off and see if you can locate the source of the noise visually. Might be a noisy pump or something poking through the inner basket scrapping on the outer tub.

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With cabinet out 8in. and up 4in. on blocks I can just make the plug conection (cabinet to control panel).

This affords a fairly decent view from motor to gear case.

Inner tub has been removed.

With knob on spin cycle, engage lid switch and clutch appears to be turning a fraction (1/16th in.?) in rhythm with the very loud whomp whomp whomp emitting from the clutch/break area (as best as I can discern with My face 2ft. away).

I understand the brake is meant to engage at end of spin cycle or when lid has been lifted during spin cycle.

Is it possible for an electrical (control panel) short to confuse this function? i.e. spin and break simultaneously?

Can a fouled/broken pump on one side of the motor hinder any/all of the function on the other side of the motor?

Clutch, break cam & coupler have been replaced thus far and inner tub removed.

This project has taken on a life of its own and ken ain't gonna get his mechanical aptitude butt kicked by no 2 bit clunkamatic washOmachine.

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Get the cabinet off and out of the way so you can see what you're doing:

wpdcabinet.gif?dc=4675399381820628534

 

You can jumper the outer two wires of the lid switch together to make the washer run with the cabinet off.

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slide the pump off of the end of the motor shaft after removing the 2 retainer clips and secure pump out of the way and try to make it spin again-this will allow you to see whether the motor shaft is indeed turning,and at the same time,eliminating the pump as the source of the failure.  when you replaced the clutch,did you swap the plastic retainer which secures the inner part of the disc to the collar on the top of the transmission?   is there a chance that you got the brake activator lever caught in the spring inside the clutch housing- the plastic tab which faces downward from the brake can go anywhere inside the clutch disc EXCEPT on top og the spring.

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