Subzero 642/S Refrigerator Gasket - Can I DIY?

[brk]

Model 642/S
Serial M18268xx

My fridge iced up.   It was reporting 33 degrees, but thermometer in the milk jug was reading 42.

Ice on the coils, back lower left, just above the drawers. Odd - the fan wasn't spinning when I held the two door switches, but I power cycled it and they started spinning.  Perhaps this is the problem.

I'm hoping it isn't a freon leak...  Had the inside coil replaced 10 years ago.

The gasket is in terrible shape, the thing is 16 years old.  Guessing that is letting lots of moisture in...

I've read mixed reviews on gasket replacement.  Is gasket replacement something I could easily do or should I call someone?

 

As reference - My abilities - thus far  -

  - I've replaced the freezer fan

  - Replaced the thermistors (with the kit that has the heat shrink)

 - Had to power cycle the thing once...  freezer got to -14 per thermometer and per display.  Compressor appeared to be stuck on.

 - Filed out the squeaky hinge

 

 

 

 

 

[AccApp]

You can replace the door gasket quite easily by yourself with a 1/4" nut driver, a small flat blade screwdriver, a boiling pan of water and a ton of patience. It's also nice to have a big, flat surface to lay the gasket on after passing it through the boiling water.

 However, your real issue is a leak again in your ref sealed system. That is well beyond the scope of any diyelfer and it is definitely time to call in a pro. I'd question the work that was performed 10 years ago: which part was used? was compressor replaced? filter/dryer? how "good" was the vacuum produced and sustained? how was charge metered back into the system?

[brk]

Thanks. I was afraid someone would say that.  If that is the case I know it is pro time.  As for the previous pro repair, all I recall was the coil inside the refrigerator compartment was replaced.  It was outside of warranty, but subzero comped the parts and I had to cover the labor.  Said it was common to fail and the new coil was redesigned.  Something about copper/aluminum junction failing I believe. I recall a scale, some sort of evacuation unit, no idea what else. It was a long time ago.  The fridge side has worked (mostly) fine since that time.

I did just replace the lower thermistor.  Only replaced the upper one last go around. It is cooling again.

How do I know for sure it's a leak in the sealed system?  Or do I just need to have someone out and test it?  The top of the fridge gasket is definitely leaky...  but I had the same suspicion.

 

 

[AccApp]

If the sealed system was operating at proper capacity there would be no ice forming in the ref. The faulty door gasket is just a small problem

[brk]

First of all, thank you!  It's cooling again, but I'm going to get it fixed so I'm not stuck.

I've called around and found prices $800-$1100.  The higher prices were the only ones that specifically mentioned replacing the drier and use factory parts. Others said replace coil and parts.

[AccApp]

I would base my decision on which offered the best guarantee.

[brk]

So far, the ones I called varied from  "90 day parts & labor", "90 day labor, 1 year parts", up to "1 year parts & labor".

 

[Kendell]

I would definitely recommend finding the leak.  If it is a slow leak that can't be found, I recommend installing a dye filter drier.  Also I have seen the Heat exchanger start leaking on older refrigerators.  Also recommend pulling a vacuum on any sealed system work.  This will remove the moisture and cause the system to operate more efficiently.  The difference in price may depend upon the details of the work, ie filter drier, heat exchanger, purge with nitrogen, and/or pull a vacuum.

[brk]

Thank you for the dye suggestion. Had that done in my truck. Forgot all about it. 

 

I would like it fixed and not just filled. A slow leak gets expensive as follow-up a few years later isn’t covered. It also tends to fully fail the week of Thanksgiving.

 

[AccApp]

Don't ever let anyone put dye into your sub-zero. The way these are made it is very easy to isolate any suspected part of the system and vacuum/pressure test. 95% of refrigerant leaks from units of this era are evaporator leaks, 4% leaks in the hot gas tube under the fridge near the condensate pan. 1% other.

[brk]

Ok.  Good info.  I am going with the Sub-Zero certified folks, I'm sure they know the fix (I hope).

The temp across the inside coil is very consistent when I look at it with my thermal imaging camera, I would have expected a gradient if it was low on r134a.

Will see what they have to say when they look at it on Thursday. Because it has had the coil replaced, it has the refrigerant valves on it (for better or worse), so it will be simple for them to put a gauge on it.

I did find the receipt for last repair. They did not replace the drier. Just the coil inside the fridge.

 

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[AccApp]

Open up the compressor compartment and look at the ref side filter/dryer. If it has an access valve on the dead end it is a service filter/dryer. If the dead end is crimped and brazed it is the factory filter/dryer. It might not be listed on the bill but should have been replaced with the evap coil.