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jtanko

Whirlpool WTW4800XQU top load washer doesn't agitate throughout cycle

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jtanko

I have a Whirlpool WTW4800XQU top load washer that will not agitate correctly.  After the water fills the tub, you hear the agitation start then after about 2-3 seconds it just stops.  There is no noise coming from the machine, but the timer still runs.  So I don't believe there is any motor kicking on or anything.  Like as if there is a short somewhere.  After about 5-10 minutes you hear the agitator try to work again for a couple seconds, then stops again.  Then the washer continues to go through the rinse and spin cycle but still not agitation.  The weird thing is if I run the washer with no load of clothes in it, the agitation worked.  So I'm wondering if there is a fault somewhere and with the loaded tub, it completely kills any chance of agitation.  I'm have no idea, but it's just an assumption that I made based off of only one trial lol.  Thank you in advance for any feedback.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Quick

Do you know for sure your having a problem? Did you just started using this machine? If so, it's different from the old school analog washers you may be used to. 

I'm thinking nothing is wrong with your washer. 

Add your detergent. Load it properly and walk away. If your clothes are spun dry and clean at the end of the cycle forget about it.

Quick

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jtanko

No.  We've had this washer for about 3 years.  You could always hear the washer when the agitation is occurring and it would continuously agitate throughout the wash process.  Now, once the tub fills the machine begins to agitate for a few seconds and then stops and nothing occurs.  Then 5-10 minutes later it will agitate for a couple seconds then stop again.  Then the timer proceeds and the washer continues through the rinse and spin cycle.

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AccApp

Find the tech sheet hidden in the upper front inside part of the cabinet and run the pull any error codes it may have. Then run the Auto diagnostic and all the manual diagnostic tests and see if it gives you any indication of trouble.

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jtanko
19 minutes ago, AccApp said:

Find the tech sheet hidden in the upper front inside part of the cabinet and run the pull any error codes it may have. Then run the Auto diagnostic and all the manual diagnostic tests and see if it gives you any indication of trouble.

I assume the tech sheet will walk me through how to perform these tests?  I also assume I will have to take the machine apart to find this tech sheet?  I will look into all of this tomorrow after work.  Thank you for your suggestions.

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AccApp

Yes, the tech sheet will explain exactly how to perform all these tests. It's a pain to get out but no need to disassemble anything. It's in a water resistant ziplock type bag. I hate getting them out so much I keep some with me in my invoice case. There are slight differences so use the one from your machine. Getting the timing right of the left-right left knob dance was very difficult for me at first. Watch a youtube video as I did to get the correct cadence.

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jtanko

So I ran through the diagnostic tests and it gave me a fault of F7E5-Shifter Fault.  So then I moved on to the Drive System-Shifter tests as the tech manual suggested, (Manual Test Mode on page 9) and unfortunately I cannot finalize the manual tests for spin and agitate.  To perform the test, I need the lid lock LED to light up and the lid to lock.  But the lid lock LED will not light up or lock when I cycle to test spin or agitate.  So the tests seems to fail, or will not even test.  But when I cycle through to test lid lock itself, it tests out good.  The lid lock LED comes on and you can hear the lid lock actuate.  Now I have not had a chance to perform the following steps below because I will need to pick an ohmmeter tomorrow to perform. But once I am able to read the Ohms in step 6, if these are ok I will be at a stand still as I will still not be able to perform the tests mentioned in step 7 due to the lid lock not performing during the test.  I will perform the inspections mentioned in step 6 and provide an update tomorrow.  But I just wanted to provide an update tonight just to see if anyone feels that the lid lock and LED situation singles out anything specific.

"2. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.  If basket turns freely, go to step 4.  If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.

4. Remove console to access main control. 5. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connectors are inserted all the way into the main control.  If visual checks pass, go to step 6.  If connectors are not inserted properly, reconnect J2 and J16 and repeat step 1.

Shifter Motor: 6. Remove connector J16 from main control. With an ohmmeter, verify resistance of the shifter motor across the following J16 connector pinouts:(Shift Motor-J16, 1 & 2) Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k Ω.  If values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7.  If values are open or out of range,   go to step 13.

7. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9."

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sh2sh2

You need to do the lid lick test, leave the lock locked, then run the agitate test

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AccApp

Yes, lid lock test first and let it remain locked through all subsequent manual tests. 

Lid lick test is optional but I don’t recommend it. They all taste the same to me.

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jtanko

Oh that's right!!!  It did say that multiple outputs may be activated simultaneously.  Didn't even think to try that.  Thanks for the feedback!  I will try that first and see where it goes from there.

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jtanko

So I left the lid lock test on and was able to perform the spin and agitate tests.  When I ran all of the tests, they all worked/passed.  I then took all the connections off of the main console, visually inspected the wiring harnesses and connection. They all looked ok.  So I put everything back together and the washer is working fine now.  Agitation is working throughout the cycle.  Weird.  Guess I will have to keep an eye on it and see if it fouls up again.  Thanks again for all the information.  

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Quick
On 10/17/2017 at 5:36 PM, Quick said:

I'm thinking nothing is wrong with your washer. 

:fighter1: Couldn't pass it up.

 

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AccApp

Good luck with it, you now have the tech sheet to arm yourself with knowledge should it fail again.

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jtanko

So the agitation has stopped working again.  After I start the cycle the agitation kicks on for a couple seconds as it normally does and then stops.  When it stops, I believe the washer runs through some sensing sequence and then it typically starts agitating again throughout the wash cycle.  But now it is not kicking back on/agitating again similar to the issue I was having before.  I checked the fault codes and it again gave me a fault of F7E5-Shifter Fault.  So I then ran all of the manual test though and they all pass.  After they all passed, I tried to run the washer again with no clothes in it and the agitation would not work.  The timer ran through the wash cycle and then drained and spun.  Am I missing something here?  Is there anything else I can do to try to single something out to find the issue?  Thanks in advance.   

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AccApp

You could try replacing the shifter assembly or you could just buy a new Speed Queen. You should also consider an older Whirlpool direct drive washer, still lots of good units out there.

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MoTeD

Its the Drive Cam. Tip the washer back and look at the belt cover. Is a groove warn into the cover? If so replace the cam kit, belt and cover together. 

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