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Kenmore gas range (older) 362.7132190


kokomo

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Always I seem to expect more of a problem than it actually is, while not in my comfort zone diagnosing a non working gas oven, family's hoping to be ready for Thanksgiving day. Feeling like they depend on me now. No amp draw from ignitor, wires both wires white shouldn't make any difference right ?  no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal, replaced the crimp on quick connector, still no amp draw, tested continuity completely out of the circuit, still nothing. However 120 vac at the ignitor. Diagnosing one problem at at time, this sounds correct to me, also how to diagnosis temp thermostat in oven just in case. thks all.

Expect the Unexpected

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27 minutes ago, kokomo said:

no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal,

Replace Ignitor then you'll likely be good to go.

turn off gas and power first!

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Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

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8 hours ago, kokomo said:

Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

What had continuity? Just because an Ignitor has continuity does not prove it's working. If it doesn't you know it is bad, but it can still be bad with continuity  

You have to test amp draw on live circuit. 

 

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Temperature sensors have varying resistance based on temperature.  You need to know what resistances are expected at what temperature to determine if sensor is good or not. 

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An ohms reading on the igniter would also tell you if its bad. If you get no amp draw but have voltage the the igniter needs to be replaced. 

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All is well now, I've just never experienced an ohm test good on an element or ignitor. Even thou I live amp tested at the begginng,  amp draw is the final word test. Thks.

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i'm just learning, it was a simple ignite r, i tend to make things more than they actually are. I had ohms before I pulled it.

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