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  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      5  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Kenmore gas range (older) 362.7132190


kokomo

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Always I seem to expect more of a problem than it actually is, while not in my comfort zone diagnosing a non working gas oven, family's hoping to be ready for Thanksgiving day. Feeling like they depend on me now. No amp draw from ignitor, wires both wires white shouldn't make any difference right ?  no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal, replaced the crimp on quick connector, still no amp draw, tested continuity completely out of the circuit, still nothing. However 120 vac at the ignitor. Diagnosing one problem at at time, this sounds correct to me, also how to diagnosis temp thermostat in oven just in case. thks all.

Expect the Unexpected

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27 minutes ago, kokomo said:

no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal,

Replace Ignitor then you'll likely be good to go.

turn off gas and power first!

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Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

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8 hours ago, kokomo said:

Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

What had continuity? Just because an Ignitor has continuity does not prove it's working. If it doesn't you know it is bad, but it can still be bad with continuity  

You have to test amp draw on live circuit. 

 

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Temperature sensors have varying resistance based on temperature.  You need to know what resistances are expected at what temperature to determine if sensor is good or not. 

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An ohms reading on the igniter would also tell you if its bad. If you get no amp draw but have voltage the the igniter needs to be replaced. 

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All is well now, I've just never experienced an ohm test good on an element or ignitor. Even thou I live amp tested at the begginng,  amp draw is the final word test. Thks.

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i'm just learning, it was a simple ignite r, i tend to make things more than they actually are. I had ohms before I pulled it.

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