GE J551 Cooktop (Circa 1956) - Element Not Heating

[Clarkbug]

Good Evening everyone.

 

I come seeking the knowledge of those who know how to find stuff thats older than me....

 

My kitchen is from 1956 or so, and still has most of the original GE stuff.  Right now, my issue is with the built in electric cooktop.  One of the four elements no longer gets hot, no matter the setting.  When I pulled the element, one of the wiring connections was very poor, so I re-crimped a new terminal.  I also ohmed the element, and it seemed to be within spec according to the random internet site that told me what the Ohms should be. 

Tonight I pulled the control panel, and Im getting voltage on both sides of the pushbutton switch, but none at the element.  I noticed that there is another junction box in the cooktop, and it appears from the wiring diagram that its a receptacle block that passes all of the wires through.  So power should go [ Line Voltage --> Push button Switch --> Receptacle Block --> Element].  This leads me to believe that there is an issue with the block, but Im trying to see if I can find a part number or if there are replacements for this thing before I tear my wife's kitchen apart.  My guess is that if I do, Ill find something thats melty or shorted out, and Ill need a replacement.

I realize its an odd request, but does anyone have any idea where I can find a part number or some vintage parts if needed?  Is there even a service manual for appliances of this age?

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Thirstytech]

With something like this once you figure out what you need check places like Ebay, etc. It'll be like working on an antique car with regard to parts availability. 

[AccApp]

I would just remove the offending wires from the receptacle block and splice them with something that will withstand the heat, (ex. ceramic wire nuts and high temp fiberglass electrical tape. These things are pretty simple, rugged devices, not much magic in them.

[MoTeD]

If im not mistaken the push switch is no longer available on these old machines. Test the voltage at burner block. If you're getting good voltage then replace element. If you're not getting voltage then test voltage to switch and so on. Replace the component where the voltage stops.

[Clarkbug]

Thanks for the responses all.

I wasnt sure if I could go around the receptacle block entirely, or if it was doing something special. Sounds like its just a place for wiring connections to sit. Part of me was hoping to just see what it looked like before I have to pull the cooktop out of the counter to get to it, since I have to pull the Mrs. kitchen apart...

I will need to go get some ceramic wire nuts, and I have silicone tape, but would need to find the fiberglass stuff.

Will get some supplies and the meter out, and will try to get it done. Thanks.

Scott

[AccApp]

if your silicone tape is rated for 400 degrees Fahrenheit or higher it should be fine.

[Clarkbug]

Posting back as some follow-up here for anyone who was wondering...

 

Turns out that the terminal block that connects the wiring whip from the front control panel to the block that connects to the actual cooktop is completely fried.  Something bad has happened, and probably should have tripped a breaker long ago.  But its a pretty melted mess, and Im glad my kitchen isnt burned down. 

 

So, now the search is on to see if I can find a new set of terminal blocks, and some rather funky looking terminals to see if I can rebuild this thing, or if I need to go cooktop shopping this weekend.....

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Don't know how much room you have/slack in both sections of the wiring to the connection block but if enough and you don't expect to have to remove it soon or if you do/undo all wiring again - Just slice all wiring together eliminating the complete block that joins the two wiring whips together.

If you do splice all the wiring together it would be a good idea to do all the slicing inside a couple of wall electric plug receptacle boxes and put blank/solid covers on the boxes when finished - that would contain any problems/fire if something goes amiss with your wiring job and would also most likely be able to pass code if need be.    Unless the connector block lays on top of a built in oven or some other heated area you would not need to use ceramic wire nuts, standard wire nuts that you would use in house wiring would be fine all contained in a box.

You don't have to put all the wires in just one receptacle box, you could use multiple single plug boxes or probably a double plug box would work very nicely and keep everything in one box.

I really highly doubt you will be able to find an exact replacement connector block but there would be a high chance you could find something that does the similar job in new modern configuration but you would still have to cut all old wires at there terminals and be able to still have enough wiring to terminate into the new electrical connection block.

Edited January 27, 2018 by Budget Appliance Repair

[Clarkbug]

Thanks for the detailed reply! 

Thats a good point that I hadnt really considered.  There is a fair bit of slack in the existing wiring harness/whip from the push button controller to the junction block on the cooktop itself.  Ill have to see what I have for junction boxes, but there should be enough space to fit a 3x3 at least, and maybe with an extension ring and a solid cover I can get a splice put in there in fairly decent shape. 

Luckily the cooktop is down in a counter, and doesnt sit over another oven or heated spot, so the area isnt exposed to any heat other than from the cooktop itself. 

Ill pull some things farther apart to make sure there isnt any more downstream damage, and see if I have enough slack to be able to wire everything up.  Thank you very much for the idea.