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Samsung DV40J3000EW/A2 stops mid normal cycle


Gill Gawthrop

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Gill Gawthrop

Couple year old dryer stops early in normal cycle and blows thermal fuse. I have cleared the exhaust vent which is 16ft of hardpipe with one 90 degree elboe. I have replaced the flex exhaust line. I have taken apart the blower housing and it is clean. I have replaced the heat coil, thermal fuse and high limit. It heats a couple loads on timed dry and then thermal fuse blows. Laundry is piling up and wife not happy.

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Gill, did you check the exhaust vent flapper on the outside of the house to make sure it's not stuck shut?

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If the spade connectors are not real tight on the thermal fuse it will generate heat and blow the fuse. They should not pull off easily by hand. Until you have the problem solved I would disconnect the duct to take it out of the equation entirely. Did you test the thermistor? That is the temp sensor on this model. I do not see a lot of them go bad but I do see them get covered with lint which insulates it and causes over heating conditions. Could also be a relay sticking on the main control. Run a no heat cycle and make sure it does not heat. Part number: DC32-00007A

Part number: DC32-00007A

Google samsung dryer thermistor and you will find a video on how to test it.

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Gill Gawthrop
4 hours ago, KaveMan said:

Gill, did you check the exhaust vent flapper on the outside of the house to make sure it's not stuck shut?

I cleaned the exhaust duct from the inside and outside. I am confident it is wide open. Is there a point in the dryer between the blower and the appliance exhaust exit that can be clogged?

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Are you replacing these parts with factory OEM replacements? 

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Make sure the lint filter  screen is not so dirty that if you put it up to a light that you cant see through the filter screen.  The filter screen housing needs to be  totally clean inside also.You may also want to make sure the blower wheel is not stripped and may be slipping on the motor shaft.  Just a few things you may want to check if you missed them.

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Gill Gawthrop

I tested the thermister and got 10.4 on 20k ohms setting. All good. High temp has continuity, (3rd) thermostat has no continuity. Blower is well connected to shaft. Lint screen looks clear to me. I can see right through it. I guess I will replace the thermostat, again, and test on a no heat cycle as suggested by Kaveman.

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41 minutes ago, Gill Gawthrop said:

I ran on air fluff manuel setting. The only no heat mode i could come up with. It did not heat.

I am confused about this statement. It says you ran it on a no heat mode and it did not heat. I don't think that is what you meant to say.

Why were you testing it on a no heat cycle?

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Gill Gawthrop

Johntech above recommended "Could also be a relay sticking on the main control. Run a no heat cycle and make sure it does not heat."

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1 hour ago, Gill Gawthrop said:

Perhaps I misunderstood Johntech.

If you run no heat cycle and it heats, either relay stuck closed or heating element shorted. 

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What he is saying is that he did run an air fluff cycle and it did not heat. Therefor the relay is not stuck.

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Has it just blown 1 Fuse  or several fuses ?   Just wondering if you may have had a bad new fuse or like Applianceman97 had mentioned are they after market fuses that you are using that may be faulty and blowing to soon.   something to think about also

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7 hours ago, applianceman97 said:

What he is saying is that he did run an air fluff cycle and it did not heat. Therefor the relay is not stuck.

Yes, I was trying to explain to Gill why John had him test air fluff. 

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17 hours ago, Gill Gawthrop said:

Lint screen looks clear to me. I can see right through it.

How well does water flow through it? I have had some dryers that fail a flow test with a meter and screen "looks clear" but after washing them with hot soap and water they pass the flow test.

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