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Jim_M

DCS RGS-366 Broiler not working

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Jim_M

We have a 10 year old DCS RGS-366 range.  The broiler will not light.  I bought and installed a new igniter.  It still does not light. The 6 range burners work.  The oven works (different igniter). What is the next step?  Is it the dual thermal gas valve?  If yes, how do you test the valve?  Any help will be greatly appreciated!  Jim

 

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northeastappliance

Does the ignitor have 120v going to it? Does it glow but no gas comes out?

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Jim_M

The igniter does not glow at all. I did not check the wires leading to the igniter from the oven. The oven has electrical power.  The oven lights work. Perhaps something is preventing power from getting to the broiler igniter. 

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northeastappliance

I would start by checking if you have 120v to the ignitor at the plug. 

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Jim_M

I believe I have found the problem.  The unit has power, but the no electricity gets to the broiler igniter.  The oven igniter works and all 6 burners work.  The oven/broiler thermostat has continuity for both bake & broil.  the Dual Thermal Gas Valve in the back appears to be the problem.  One side (the oven) has continuity, but the other side (the broiler?) does not. I just ordered the part (#210782) from DCS.  They were the least expensive option at $100.86 for the part.  I hope this is the issue!

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darren412

It sounds as though your on the right track if I’m not mistaken . You may be able to Jump the broiler terminals at the valve correct , to check that ?  Not positively sure but I think you can do that. Let me know what you came up with.

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Budget Appliance Repair

NOOOOOOO!!!!

Don't try to jump any terminals at the broil or any terminals on the gas valve.

If they read an open valve then the valve is bad.

You do need to make sure the ignitor and wiring is not shorted to ground in any way.

The valve bi-metal heater can go bad on it's own, (doesn't happen very often), or if you somehow send 120 VAC directly through the valve bypassing the ingitor in any way will immediately fry the valve bi-metal heater wire.

One more common way this can happen is if you have the range hooked up to a plug with the wrong polarity instead of the 120VAC live line going through the t-stat then to the ignitor then out to the valve then to neutral on the other side of valve the 120VAC live line would be on the neutral line going directly to the gas valve and if somehow, (mice chewed wiring), the wire coming out of the other terminal on the valve contacts ground before passing thru the ignitor, instant burn out of valve bi-metal heater wire.

There is no way to bypass a hot surface ignitor system valve - the best you could do if trying to test if the ignitor is pulling the correct amperage is to remove both of the wires going to the valve terminals and connect those two wires together totally bypassing the valve then the ignitor should turn on and heat up when you turn the oven control and you could take an amp reading of the ignitor.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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darren412

Thanks budget for that correction . Sound and good advice. I appreciate that concern in setting me straight on the proper way of testing that gas valve

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Jim_M

Thanks!  I had no intention of jumping the valve.  I have reassembled the oven (we still need to use the stovetop).   I am simply waiting for the part to arrive in the mail.  Thanks everyone for your input!

Jim M.

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Jim_M

Update:  I have now replaced the dual thermal gas valve and the broiler igniter (twice - after breaking one).  I turned it on, the igniter lit (more progress than I had before), it sounded as if the gas valve opened, but after a few seconds the broiler did not ignite and "click" it sounded as if the valve closed again.  Now when I turn the broiler on, I am back to square one.  That is, the igniter won't even light.  I am stumped.  The thermostat works (I think.  Good electrical continuity), the dual thermal gas valve and igniter are brand new.  What else could it be?  Wiring?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.  Otherwise, this DIY project is over and I need to call in a pro.  (Middletown, NJ if anyone has a recommendation.)

Thanks!  Jim

 

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certified tech group 51

what is the current draw??            could not find that DCS  ignitor P/N to get the correct draw.                               3.2 to 3.6 amp.  is the most common.....I/R broil unit on this model.....How many times did you try to get the broil to operate??     The ignitor only lit once???    .

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Jim_M

Thanks for the response.  I'm an amateur at this.  "current draw" on what?  The thermostat?  Igniter?  How do you measure it?  I have an old Radio Shack analog multitester.  Yes, the igniter lit only once after replacing it and the gas valve.

Thanks again for your help.

Jim

 

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Jim_M

Full disclosure:  I took the oven door off and broke the hinge.  Am waiting for the part.  So, there is no door on the oven.  I can't imagine that this makes a difference.

I just lit the oven.  It works fine.  I switched to Broil and nothing happens.  The igniter does not glow at all...

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darren412

it May just be that you have a door switch for that unit and it shuts down the power to the ignition system  when it thinks the door is open ??? 

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darren412

If you do have one it’s possible that the door switch is acting up intermittently ina crazy way and possibly driving you crazy when you were opening and closing the door when it was on. Just throwing this out there if you have one.  Something to check if you haven’t already. 

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Budget Appliance Repair
Posted (edited)

I don't know about this DCS brand but I worked on another brand, (can't remember what exactly it was - maybe American Stove Company), that had an I/R broiler and it did have a door switch so the broil burner wouldn't come on if the door was open and it was bent in so the door didn't activate it correctly.

Also check the continuity on the broil side of the new valve to make sure the new valve didn't blow out already from a possible short sending 120VAC directly to the valve instead of thru the ignitor first, (hopefully that wasn't what the pop you heard was).

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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16345Ed
41 minutes ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

Also check the continuity on the broil side of the new valve to make sure the new valve didn't blow out already from a possible short sending 120VAC directly to the valve instead of thru the ignitor first, (hopefully that wasn't what the pop you heard was).

My first thought was a short. It would explain the valve failing initially. 

Id carefully check all wiring in broiler circuit. 

 

I had a Jennair range once that was I/R and the infrared broil screen was deformed from heat and was creating a short. 

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Jim_M

Thanks all.  Finally got the door hinge part.  (DCS lost my order!).  Will try to install the new hinge and will check the gas valve.  You're right! I hope the new part didn't blow!

News to follow...

Jim

 

 

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