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cherylrose103

Whirlpool Dryer

20 posts in this topic

Hi...My Whirlpool Dryer Model LER6634DQ1 is not heating. I do not have an Ohm meter, and to be truthful, I believe I am a little intimated by it. Anyway, I overrode the thermal fuse by putting the 2 wires together to see if the element would come on. No luck...I turned the circuit breaker off and on to make sure it reset. I put in a new 3 prong plug receptacle. The screw on the receptacle looked a little burnt, and thought that might be my problem. Still no heat...Put on a new cord, but did not replace the component that the cord connects too. I realize that there may still be a wiring problem, but would like to know if there is any other logical part that is associated with the heating function?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Without using a multimeter, you're just playing parts changing roulette-- we don't play that here. However, if you'd like to learn how to use a meter, this page will teach you.

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Dear Scott,

Thank you so much for the sound advice, and the instuctions for the ohm meter.  I know that I have to bite the bullet and use the ohm meter to diagnose the problem. Thanks again for your valuable service, and according to the popularity of your forum, congratulations on your success!

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Check these things at the rear of the dryer after you have unplugged it and removed the back panel.  #7--t-fuse...if dead comes as a kit with the safety thermostat #15.  If #15 is dead can get it seperate.  #17, element, can be broken, check it.  #6 cycling thermostat, if dead replace it.  If all of these check good tell us.  Pegi

Leadimage.asp?productTypeID=0151200&brandID=1198&modelDesc=ELECTRIC%20DRYER&modelNumber=LER6634DQ1&documentID=O2023748&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=Page%204.0000000000000000&titleID=00003&

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This picture shows you the main culprits:

wpdry107.jpg?dc=4675399380722103158

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Dear Pegi,

Tnank you so much for the helpful information and the diagram!

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You are most welcome.....;)

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I am having a similar problem with my Whirlpool LRG8857EQ0 model.  Will ohm it out later. 

In the meantime, if I need to access the ignitor, how does one get the bottom of the front panel off?  It's a full panel model so there are 2 screws at the top of the machine.  The bottom looks like it is clipped on, but I just don't want to yank it out for fear of breaking something.  Also, when the front panel is off, does the drum just hang there, or do I have to remaove that as well?

John :?

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Hi John, This is a gas dryer with no heat?  Correct?  Remove the 2 screws holding the top to the vent housing at the lint filter, then use a putty knife to push into the area under the top at the front where it sits on the case about 1-2 inches in from the sides, to release the clips and the top will swing up, have something handy to hold this so it will not fall backwards and pull wires loose.  Have the dryer unplugged.  Remove the wires to the door switch and remove the 2 screws at the inside top that hold the front to the case, then pull the front toward you to release it from the drum and then lift it straight up.   The drum will just fall down at the front since it rides around the front lip around the door. Then access the gas assy. on the bottom left. First thing to check is the igniter on the left side of the assy.

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Yes, it's gas.  Thanks for the insight.  I had everything but the "slide straight up".  I would've ended up pulling it away from the unit and breaking it.  :shock:

Will let you know how it turns out.

 

Cheers!

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;)

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OK. so all fuses and thermostats check out.  The ignitor has been replaced.  Gas and electric reconnected.  I turn it on, the drum starts tumbling, the ignitor starts glowing and...NOTHING.  No flame. 

No what?!

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Is the ignitor staying on or shutting off after a minute or so??  If the ignitor is staying on your flame sensor on the side of the cone is shorted.  If it is cycling off after about a minute or so with no ignition you either did not turn the gas back on, or you have a bad gas valve/coils

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Ignitor is cycling off.

Bad gas valve onboard?  

Coils in Gas Valve assy?

 

John

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And you are sure the gas is on to the dryer?  Usually if the coils get weak the burner will light but cycle off and not relight.  When it calls for heat do you hear a loud click from the gas valve???  Check both on/off gas valves to make the one at the wall and the one by the gas assy are turned on.

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[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

And you are sure the gas is on to the dryer?  Usually if the coils get weak the burner will light but cycle off and not relight.  When it calls for heat do you hear a loud click from the gas valve???  Check both on/off gas valves to make the one at the wall and the one by the gas assy are turned on.

Gas is definitely on to the dryer.  I don't hear any clicking.  I never touched on/off valve by the gass assy.

Bad valve?

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Hummm, when the dryer calls for heat the main coil opens the main gas chamber in the gas valve, hense the click, when the igniter comes on ad the flame switch senses this, the flame switch cuts off and the ignitor starts cooling down and the secondary and holding coils open the second chamber to let the gas flow. If you do not hear the initial click either the coils are bad or the gas valve is stuck closed sounds like to me.  Anyone out there can shed another light on this????

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Coils it is!

Changed both coils and voila!  We have ignition!

Thanks for all your help most gracious Samurai!

John

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Coils it is!

Changed both coils and voila!  We have ignition!

Thanks for all your help most gracious Samurai!

John

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You are most welcome, John   ;)

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