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cascadia

Frigidaire FWTR445RFS2 washer not spinning

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Lighthouse

Had a washer yesterday that would spin but not agitate. If it was in agitate you could start motor rotating and it would agitate. Checked voltage and when it was in agitate motor was getting voltage to both agitate & spin. New timer fixed it up.

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john63

cascadia...

I checked stock...no luck.

The 2 Motor Controllers in stock are for the brushless motor type.

We did have one 5 months ago...prior to relocating to our new shop location...much "declutter" was done...and the old MC was tossed into recycle.

Sorry that didn't work out.

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cascadia

Thanks for checking John, I appreciate you taking the time to look and provide the tips.  The mission continues...

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AccApp

Who sold you the motor controller? Did you get a guarantee? Still available new, but pricey ($210+ at Sears).

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cascadia

I bought the motor controller from Part Simple in Illinois (online vendor).  I have reached out to them, but have not received a reply....

I rechecked the wiring between the timer, motor controller and motor.  Good continuity all around and timer does not have any suspect looking contacts, wires, etc.  I may end up getting the one from Sears, my local parts store was 7-10 days out.

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AccApp
53 minutes ago, cascadia said:

I bought the motor controller from Part Simple in Illinois (online vendor).  I have reached out to them, but have not received a reply....

A fairly shadowy operation as far as I’m concerned. I once ordered a part through them and it shipped from a Marcone warehouse in Kentucky. Didn’t get that warm, fuzzy feeling that they were all about transparency and customer service.

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cascadia

I agree.  I should have done my due diligence before ordering from them.  I first became concerned when my order confirmation email was misformatted and contained typos.

Just talked to Sears and they want $340 plus tax.  Still cheaper than a new machine, but will keep searching around.

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darren412

Be careful with sears also. They will tell you it’s in stock at times and it isn’t an after you have already paid them , then you find out it’s been backordered from an email the send you a week later and it could take months to get the part,  

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Econo Appliance
1 hour ago, darren412 said:

Be careful with sears also. They will tell you it’s in stock at times and it isn’t an after you have already paid them , then you find out it’s been backordered from an email the send you a week later and it could take months to get the part,  

This is true.   Searspartsdirect shows everything "in stock,"   but sears doesn't actually check availability until an order is placed.  Then they call the customer a few days later to modify the order.   It's a sales tactic.  This causes me grief in situations where a part is discontinued or 3-week factory order,  but customer finds it "in stock" on sears.     
 

Also,  sears is not an authorized parts seller,  all parts are sold with zero warranty.

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Budget Appliance Repair

Part Simple is a seller of CoreCentricSolutions rebuilt boards - usually CoreCentricSolutions rebuilt boards are pretty good but you could have got a faulty one.

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darren412

I got a faulty one from them one time. Also  when you have come across a universal rebuilt replacement board they sell that  will substitute one that is NLA.  You don’t get the directions for the proper way to hook up the replacement one.   It can be a pain in the ass and if you can’t figure out the wiring process and where they will be hooked up.you can get lost real easy without the repair installation sheet

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Kendell

 Corecentric has a three year warranty. I use the. Quite often and don’t usually have a problem

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Budget Appliance Repair
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Kendell said:

 Corecentric has a three year warranty. I use the. Quite often and don’t usually have a problem

Corecentric only has a three year warranty on boards that you physically send in for repair.

If you purchase any of there pre-rebuiltboards from PartSimple or CoreCentric on Ebay or other re-seller, you only get a 1 year part warranty.

I've had pretty  much no problems using the CoreCentric rebuilt boards.  I can only remember one range board that I had to send back in an extra time because it didn't work the first time.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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cascadia

The saga continues.  I installed a known working control board.  Same result.  No motor spinning regardless of cycle or load setting.

A basic question for the group.  What voltages should I be seeing out of the timer to the respective components?  And if I am not seeing those....?

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AccApp
On 3/21/2018 at 9:27 AM, AccApp said:

 Also there is a magnet in the detergent drawer that acts upon a read switch, if the drawer is open or the little magnet falls out it won’t do anything unless the drawer is closed. 

Did you check for the magnet? #8 in this diagram:

Y2706086-00002.png

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cascadia

AccApp, yes just checked, the magnet is in place.

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Budget Appliance Repair

You said you replaced the door switch/lock assembly, was your old one a plastic mounting plate with a wax motor, solenoid coil, micro-switch and lever assembly?

If it was the original old style switch, did you replace it with the new module closed box style switch?   If you replaced the old style original switch with the new new style without using the expensive kit that comes with a new wiring harness and counter weight and instructions you very well have the new switch hooked up wrong, (you can make them work but you have to make sure you are using the correct terminals).

There is a light on the front panel, I'm pretty sure it is the door locked light - it has to be on with door closed, detergent dispenser drawer closed and reed switch working properly.  If you don't see that red light on the front come on when you turn the washer on then then something is wrong with the detergent dispenser magnet or reed switch.

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cascadia

The door switch was indeed replaced. This machine originally had the newer closed box style and was replaced with the same part. 

That was the first part I replaced because I was getting 600 ohms at the wax motor. The new one reads 1500 ohms.

The door lock light comes on and the door locks. Dispenser drawer has the magnet.

The machine fills, timer advances, pump drains regardless of setting. Just no spinning or agitating.

I've got continuity throughout the harness.  Should I see 120v at the components or does that timer step down the voltage?  I am not getting 120 at the pressure switch. Unfortunately I cannot get the meter probes to the door switch when it's installed.

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Budget Appliance Repair

And you have a new motor on it or had one and put the old one back on?

If you have both the old original and a new, check the brushes on both and make sure the old one has at least 3/4 inch of each brush left and the new should have 1 1/2 inches and touching the rotor correctly, not somehow bound up in brush holders.

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cascadia

Checked the brushes on both the new and old motor.  All seem to slide easily-no binding in the mount.

The meter readings at the motor connector on both new and old are within spec.

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certified tech group 51

Long time ago, had one simular to this one......  was a broken brown (?)  wire in the harness close to the motor,  there was a zip tie holding the wires that was attached to the floor...Depended how you held the wires for the continuity check, it checked O.K...

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cascadia

UPDATE:

Replaced the timer and motor works again!  Agitates and spins at the appropriate times.  It was giving me strange/inconsistent voltages during the cycles.

Thank you all to helped and provided suggestions.  This has been a good learning experience for me.  Again thank you appliantology community!

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Lighthouse

Thanks for update.

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