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Grimmspropeller

Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes

132 posts in this topic

Well, it looks like Electrolux/Frigidaire was saling so many of these and people where actually repairing their machines they thought they could bump the price up to some rediculous amount and they would just make more, (WRONG MOVE -- it looks like when bearings go out now it will be throw away the machine and get something besides Frigidare garbage).

Out of 6 parts sites I use to lookup parts all have went to $400.00 except one, (PartSelect $312.46, which is now less then my wholesaler - Marcone @ $368.25), and one is now at $432.61.

I have noticed since the first of this new year some large increases in some part prices.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Then it's probably the second best solution: The rear tub assembly for $170. If you come to need the inner drum and spider+shaft, that's $230. Together they're around the same price as the whole assembly, so you'll want to think twice about doing the job if the spider is bust.

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I'm hoping for a minimal repair job, just bearing and seal replacement.  I have my washer taken apart and have new bearings installed, I'm just waiting for a new seal to arrive so I can reassemble everything.  I know nothing of the world of bearings and seals which leads to my question.  There are very light grooves worn into the shaft, so light that I can't even feel them with my finger nail.  Is that a concern for the effectiveness of the seal?  Chicago Rawhide sells somthing called a Speedi-Sleeve

and I ordered one with my seal.  Is there any problem with using a speedi-sleeve?  Is it a waste on money?

I've learned a few things doing this.  I would never have been able to attempt this without all the help from generous people at this forum.  The internet has made this possible but there's limits to what the internet can do.  Taking the washer apart was fairly easy but I wasted many hours searching the internet for a replacement seal.  I was lulled into thinking it would be easy to find because it was so easy to find the bearings online using the specs provided here http://www.zenzoidman.com/documents/RearBearingV6.pdf

Finding the seal turned out to be easy (well I don't have it yet but it's coming) once I remembered that I have a telephone and I can still talk to people.  I never realized that there are stores that specialize in selling bearings and seals and related stuff.  If this is news to anyone else you can find a bearing store close to you with Google Local  Click on find businesses and type in your address and search for "bearings".  My neighbor tried to help me get the bearings out.  We splintered a wooden dowel in the attempt.  He suggested I call around and find somebody with a press to get them out and put the new ones in.  My local auto mechanic didn't have a press but told me to bring my stuff in.  I brought the rear tub to him and within 20 minutes he had the old bearings out and the new ones installed.  He was happy to do it and it save me lots of time.  A helpful mechanic should also have a puller to take off the rear pulley.

I hope this helps anyone else out there who might be mechanically challenged like me.

mck.

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Thanks to all the great information here on this forum and this post in particular. I would not have been able to repair our CDN Kenmore Front Loader Model: 970-C40062-00 without it (including the PDF file).

Some interesting anecdotes of this repair include

  1. Sounded like a jet engine taking off for over two years but the grease issue just started showing up in the last few washes.
  2. I couldn’t get the pulley off so I laid the rear bottom tub assembly face down supported off the floor by some plastic tubs … then pounded the pulley and shaft out of the rear tub assembly
  3. Don’t damage the pulley nut retaining threads in the shaft or you are going to have some work to do to fix it (don’t ask my how I knows this). Final solution was to drill out the first ¼” of the opening in the shaft so that the bolt can get to the “good” threads.
  4. I couldn’t get the rear tub assembly weights off until I got the pulley off. The retaining bolts were too long. When fully dropped they hit the pulley and still wouldn’t clear the retaining holes. Had to pull the pulley first. I am going to cut the bolts shorter … duh, upon assembly I realized that the bolts are compression and I could have just slipped the weights out.
  5. Nothing else was a problem except the entire tub enclosure was heavy and kept getting hung up on the shocks when trying to pull it out. Make sure the shocks are well out of the way.

Assembly anecdotes include

  1. The shaft went back into the new rear tub assembly quite easily.
  2. The pulley wouldn’t go back on easily. I used a dremel to shave it slightly so it fits not quite so tightly.
  3. NO damage on the (newer version) spider arms but LOTS of grease and soap buildup. Took 1/2hr just to clean it up.
  4. There is absolutely no way we could have gotten the front door boot back on (around the outer tub) without removing the boot from the front shell/door edge THEN removing the front weights. We put the boot on the outer tub (along with the spring) then loaded the weights back on THEN loaded the entire tub assembly back into the washer THEN reattached the front of the boot to the shell/door

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Many thanks to all of you for guiding me!  My dear hubby thought I was off my rocker when I told him that I had figured out what was wrong with our 5 year old Kenmore front loader  and was  going to do the job MYSELF!  The rear bearing was shot.    I ordered the rear tub assembly (repairclicnic.com was a DREAM to work with and shop from!)  and spent Memorial Weekend doing the job!  Oh yeah, he was :yikes: as I began to pull out the motor, control panel, pump and then the bolts on the tub.  Kept saying it would NEVER run again!  Told him to :gimmebeer: and move out of the way while I worked. 

One thing I DID learn:

-The drum pulley metal IS FRAGILE!  Braun will NOT triumph over brains.  The biggest mistake I made on this job was letting hubby try and apply his braun on the pulley.  I heard the crack, then:oops:.  He broke the pulley.  Spent an addition $62 for the pulley. 

In total, I spent $261.  New rear tub assembly, next day priority Saturday shipping on a holiday weekend, and the new drum pulley (shipped 2nd air).  Yeah, you spend bocu bucks on rush delivery when you have 3 boys who spend LOTS of time outside, in LOTS of dirt. :stooges:

So, I have contributed to the beer fund because I would not want to lose this resource!!  This has also been a major confidence builder for me!  2 weeks ago I fixed the washing machine.  Last week I fixed a toilet.  Tomorrow I'm fixing two drain stops that are giving me grief.  I'm :armed: and ready to repair.  THANKS!

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That be some good fixing you done there paqcrewmama....

Great job!!!!!

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I replaced the bearing about 2 months ago. Since then it sometimes it would just not go into high speed spin mode. I had to replace the motor/spin control board. The details are this thead: http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=13535&forum_id=2&jump_to=78652#p78652

But the warning for this thread is .... Perhaps I "nudged" the motor/spin control board during this bearing repair job and damaged it. I would suggest anybody doing the bearing repair job to temporarily remove the control board (two screws and two connectors) before removing/installing the tub assembly (cause its heavy and it moves around a lot in the cabinet while trying to jimmy it in and out of place).

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