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caddylover

GE model GSS25XSRCSS freezer not getting cold enough

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caddylover

GE side by side.  I have done most of the tests needed.  I'm getting proper voltage to the evap fan from the J2 portion of the comp board and just tore the freezer apart and i am getting proper voltage at the harness.  Defrost unit does go on about 10:30pm each night as i can see it glow and Fridge goes into defrost mode.  Took a look at the evap fan in the freezer and it doesn't hit any high speeds.  Seems like it wants to, but seems to be stuck in lowest setting possibly.   I can stop the fan with my finger and it will stay stopped and then it needs a bit of help to get spinning again.  My freezer used to blow cold air like no tomorrow.   Ice isn't being formed either as it's not cold enough.  

I purchased and installed a new evap defroster thinking that was the problem, but the problem was my ohm meter failed and gave me a false reading.  So, i've also got a new thermistor as well as defrost thermo to install but i don't think that is the problem.  I used to have the whoooo whooo fan speed issue, but now i don't and since it doesn't do the sound of a jet taking off anymore, the freezer is not getting as cold as it needs to.  From what i have read the boards were an issue on these fridges, but i looked at the board and it doesn't seem to have any burn issues.  Not saying that ain't the problem, but as mentioned, volatages for the evap fan are right where they need to be from the J2 on the board and at the harness.  I don't know what the resistance should be for the fan so i couldn't diagnose that.

Evap fan or board issue or?

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darren412

The first thing I would do is verify you have a nice even frost pattern on the entire evaporator coiI. Then if the frost pattern is good. Since you had to assist the evaporator fan by spinning it manually after you had stopped it by hand , then I would say you need to replace the evaporator coil  fan next.

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caddylover

the frost pattern looks pretty good.  it's not a block of ice by any means.  Back panel covering the coils does get a bit of a frost on it, then after the defrost heater has it's way with it, it's good again till the next cycle.   But as mentioned, i don't think that's the problem.  I tend to agree that it's the evap fan, just was waiting for a professional alternate opinion. 

The fridge side stays the temp its supposed to.  I was confused about the evap fan and it's purpose.  I had thought that the fridge side would have to be warm as well for it to be the evap fan.  The fan and damper assembly in the fridge side works without issue.   When i close the fridge or freezer door, that turns on. 

 

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16345Ed

Never said anything about thermistor test results....

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caddylover

haven't tested the thermistors in the freezer.  One is attached to the evap fan pigtail, the other looks to be further down the side wall.   Any way to test them from the board?

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16345Ed
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, caddylover said:

haven't tested the thermistors in the freezer.  One is attached to the evap fan pigtail, the other looks to be further down the side wall.   Any way to test them from the board?

Yes! All sensor are on J1 connector. 

Pin 1 and 5 FF

pin 2 and 5 FF(2)

pin 3 and 5 FZ

pin 4 and 5 evaporator 

Sensors should be pulled from location and put in ice water slurry to be tested. That way temperature is controlled at 32 degrees to get accurate readings. 

But you may want to leave them in place and do a VDC test with J1 connected less than 1VDC or more than 4 VDC means bad thermistor  

 

Edited by 16345Ed

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caddylover

thanks, may have to do this while leaving them in place.  Ice maker can't make ice as it's not cold enough in the freezer.  will post back once i've finished

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darren412
12 hours ago, caddylover said:

the frost pattern looks pretty good.  it's not a block of ice by any means.  Back panel covering the coils does get a bit of a frost on it, then after the defrost heater has it's way with it, it's good again till the next cycle.   But as mentioned, i don't think that's the problem.  I tend to agree that it's the evap fan, just was waiting for a professional alternate opinion. 

The fridge side stays the temp its supposed to.  I was confused about the evap fan and it's purpose.  I had thought that the fridge side would have to be warm as well for it to be the evap fan.  The fan and damper assembly in the fridge side works without issue.   When i close the fridge or freezer door, that turns on. 

 

The fridge temp side seems ok still because your temps in the freezer are still cold enough to send some cold air into the fresh food side still.  If you had a proper reading from a gauge you would notice that it’s warmer than it really should be though.   if your evaporator fan like you said had needed a little help by hand to work again when you stopped the blade. That is definitely an indicator of a faulty fan. your damper thermistor is most likely working also since the fresh food section is still cold . Usually when the damper fails it will either be the damper or damper thermistor  that has failed and the fresh food side will be warm and not cold at all really or it will be to cold and stuff will freeze in the fresh food side.  With A failing evaporator fan and no good air flow in the freezer section , that is why the ice production is down. You have to have a minimum of below 10 degrees F  for your ice maker to properly harvest ice.  you decide to check and confirm that one of the two freezer thermistors are out of range and not with in specs like 16345ed has told you to check then yes change it.  If the readings you decide to take are good but the thermistors have a black sealant on the end of the thermistor where the sensor wires go into them you will still need to replace them. Ge had at one time thermisters that were black on the end that were faulty and some were still manufactured that were good. In my opinion alone , If the thermisters are black on one end change all the thermistors in your fridge , fresh food and freezer section . If they are all totally white from end to end and they are within specs. They will be ok.  Thermistors “in my opinion and mine alone”  rarely go but they do fail. Like 16345ed has told you check the specs of the thermistors  and then get back to him with your results. He knows what he is talking about ok Caddylover. Good luck

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caddylover

appreciate all the feedback guys.  Nice to see someone help out a noob here.

I'll pull the cover for the board when i get home and hit J1-5 common for my 5vdc and then probe pins 1-4 to see where my voltage is at, understanding that anything under 1 and over 5vdc is no good.

While i do still lean towards it being the fan, i'd like to cover all my bases.  I don't want to start throwing parts at this thing just because...

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16345Ed

I agree with Darren on likely fan issue but GE thermistors are always suspect and should be properly tested. 

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caddylover

i tested the thermistors by grabbing the 5vdc from pin 5 on J1 and then probing 1, 2, 3, 4 on same bank on the board.  Got approx 2.1vdc on 1, 2 and 3 and about 4.1vdc on pin 4.   Should be in range so i ordered the new fan motor. 

Appreciate your help guys!

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darren412
1 hour ago, caddylover said:

i tested the thermistors by grabbing the 5vdc from pin 5 on J1 and then probing 1, 2, 3, 4 on same bank on the board.  Got approx 2.1vdc on 1, 2 and 3 and about 4.1vdc on pin 4.   Should be in range so i ordered the new fan motor. 

Appreciate your help guys!

Did you also looked at the thermistors in the freezer and verified that the end of the thermistor where the sensor wires go into it did not have any black silicone on that end of the thermistor ?

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caddylover
10 hours ago, caddylover said:

i tested the thermistors by grabbing the 5vdc from pin 5 on J1 and then probing 1, 2, 3, 4 on same bank on the board.  Got approx 2.1vdc on 1, 2 and 3 and about 4.1vdc on pin 4.   Should be in range so i ordered the new fan motor. 

Appreciate your help guys!

no, i do have a new thermistor if needed and the one that is attached to the fan harness should be the new one.  The one i had purchased last week is good with no silicone. 

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darren412

Ok there , there are 3 or 4 thermistors in a GE fridge. Two in the freezer section (on the evaporator coil and the interior cabinet).   One in the fresh food section area. And on the earlier models some will have an ambient temperature thermistor on the outside of the fridge. You want to replace any thermistor that comes with your fridge that has a black end on it. They’re inexpensive and easy to replace while your in there. Also make sure the connections are fully siliconed . Squeeze silicone into the bell connection and then crimp it.

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caddylover

just replaced the fan motor and i could tell right away it was night and day.  It was spinning at high speed when i tested it,  thx guys for your help

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