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wader072174

Whirlpool Fridge wrx735sdbm00 ice maker

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wader072174

Hello,

I am having trouble with ice maker located in fresh food section not producing ice. I put a test cord to water valve located behind fresh food back wall to ice maker solenoid and no water came through. I figured change water valve and I’ll be good. Still no ice. I put test cord to new valve and still no water??? I do get water at water dispenser. Strange thing is when I put test cord to water dispenser solenoid no water comes out there either. Solenoid buzzes but no water. Not sure why with 120 volts supplied to valve water doesn’t come through on either solenoid??? I’m thinking ice maker may be the issue? Thanks for any help.

Rick

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darren412

Try changing your water filter with the correct replacement # filter and not a generic or substitute filter. If you have already changed it with the right one!  Then try and uninstall the filter and then reinstall the filter. You may have not turned it in fully into position. Your saying you are getting water out of the dispenser ? I am assuming it’s the right water pressure also at the dispenser?  But if your direct testing both water valves in the back as you mentioned with the lines disconnected and no water coming out of either valve that’s a different situation.  Usually if you are getting the proper water flow out of the wall to the fridge and the correct water filter is installed  and you are direct testing those water inlet valves disconnected from their adjacent water lines into a bucket with the correct suggested voltage , applied and then no water comes out of either valve then usually that will mean you have a bad filter head assembly( this is the part your screwing the water filter into.  I would try a new correct water filter if you haven’t tried that already. It’s simple and you would want to change that filter regardless of any thing else anyway if it’s old.  Not a waste of money. 

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wader072174

Hi. Thank you for your response. The person I am helping is using the bypass and does not have a filter installed. Would that make a difference?? The thing that is really blowing my mind is that water comes out of dispenser when wiring harness is connected and paddle is presssd in front of fridge. But does not come out of valve when 120 volt test cord is attached. Does not make sense to me....

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darren412

You verified the valve was working already so I don’t understand why your even messing with direct line voltage to the dispenser valve?     Your test cord is bad  or your trying to energize the wrong valve.  As long as you are filling up a tall glass of water at the dispenser two times in a row with no drop in pressure. We can assume dispenser water inlet valve is good correct?   Or am I missing something here?  

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wader072174

The valve has two solenoids one feeds the water dispenser and the other feeds ice maker. Originally I put 120 to solenoid that feeds ice maker. No water cane through valve. I assumed that meant bad valve. Changed valve still no ice. 

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darren412

Assuming you have water coming in to both valves .  Put a meter on the ice maker valve and cycle the ice maker with it not hooked on  so you can fill a cup of water through the ice chute. see if your getting 120v at the dispenser valve if you are then at the same time the water should be running through the line and into the glass.  Remember you may need to hold in the freezer door light switch at the same time Also.  Certain GE fridges will not let in line voltage to the ice maker components if the door switch is not closed 

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Rhubarb Tau

Pretty sure this unit has an isolation valve in the machine compartment that's diode-energized when power is applied to either of the back-wall valves. If you removed the connector to put your cheater cord on the dispenser or IM valve , then the isolation valve isn't getting power to open.

This unit uses the Maytag-era Ice20 Icemaker system, and evidently a lot of the details of operation didn't survive when Whirlpool bought Maytag; Techline doesn't seem to have a lot of info about these units.

The most common problem I see on these is a burnt Icemaker Heater contact in the module head, usually the first thing I check. Service Test 25 will energize the fill valve if you jump the T-H terminals on the IM head. I've also seen a couple frozen fill tubes, usually visible from the front or after removing the IM/Air Handler (which is pretty quick, 1 connector and a release tab, whole thing slides out as a unit).

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Lighthouse
8 hours ago, Rhubarb Tau said:

Pretty sure this unit has an isolation valve in the machine compartment that's diode-energized when power is applied to either of the back-wall valves. If you removed the connector to put your cheater cord on the dispenser or IM valve , then the isolation valve isn't getting power to open.

Schematic says it has a Diode pack.

8 hours ago, Rhubarb Tau said:

Service Test 25 will energize the fill valve if you jump the T-H terminals on the IM head.

Did you try this? Did you check for voltage at the valve during this test? 

Did you check the line from water valve to the IM for obstructions?

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wader072174

No obstructions from valve to ice maker. Glad you told me about diode pack. Thought I was losing my mind. When I pop the cover to ice maker head there is a solid black plastic. I don’t see access to T and H terminals like old style. I ordered ice maker and will try that Monday.. thanks for the help.

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darren412
On 4/27/2018 at 2:20 PM, darren412 said:

You verified the valve was working already so I don’t understand why your even messing with direct line voltage to the dispenser valve?     Your test cord is bad  or your trying to energize the wrong valve.  As long as you are filling up a tall glass of water at the dispenser two times in a row with no drop in pressure. We can assume dispenser water inlet valve is good correct?   Or am I missing something here?  

I’m sorry wader . I thought this question was on a GE refrigerator.  my mistake. 

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Lighthouse
7 hours ago, wader072174 said:

When I pop the cover to ice maker head there is a solid black plastic. I don’t see access to T and H terminals like old style

It just pops off. Some have 1 screw holding it in.

7 hours ago, wader072174 said:

I ordered ice maker and will try that Monday.. thanks for the help.

It also comes with 2 wiring harnesses to rewire everything. 

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wader072174

From what I understand they have had a lot of issues with this ice maker set up. 

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darren412
26 minutes ago, wader072174 said:

From what I understand they have had a lot of issues with this ice maker set up. 

I thought that also.  I had only one of these  models in the last 6 yrs that had an ice maker issue but what the ice maker had also done was leak water excessively at some point  intermittently into the ice auger motor compartment and the auger motor was freezing up in an ice block and was malfunctioning which eventually killed the ice auger motor even though I thawed it out. Between the new ice maker and auger motor it was expensive enough for the customer to only want to repair the ice maker.  I couldn’t understand that they only wanted to replace the ice maker but it was what it was

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Lighthouse

I have had quite a few recently. Some under warranty. I started stocking the IM on the van.

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darren412

Good to know thanks light house

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wader072174

It was indeed the ice maker. And yes you do need the rewire the entire ice maker. Thanks for all the support and help on this...

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Lighthouse

Thanks

did another one today

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darren412

Another one for the books nice call light house

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Quick
On 4/28/2018 at 5:14 AM, Lighthouse said:

Schematic says it has a Diode pack.

Where's that isolation valve and diodes located on this box Lighthouse?

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Lighthouse
11 hours ago, Quick said:

Where's that isolation valve and diodes located on this box Lighthouse?

Look at the wiring diagram (not schematic). They are in the back, in the compressor compartment.

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Quick
4 hours ago, Lighthouse said:

They are in the back, in the compressor compartment.

No sir. I couldn't stick my head any further up that compressor compartments ass if I tried.

I even pulled break down videos on this model number and it shows the valve in the back. This box does not have that valve in the back. Yes it shows it on schematic and  wiring diagram. I can't find it!  Water inlet runs strait to the filter. I kid you not. 

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Lighthouse

I did a similar maytag yesterday with no valve back there. Had a place for it but it went straight to the valve by the filter. It did not show it on the tech sheet though. Your tech sheet shows it but surely WP would make a mistake on their techsheet😂

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Quick
13 minutes ago, Quick said:

Water inlet runs strait to the filter. I kid you not.

This box is M# WRX735SDBM02

No isolation valve or diodes before it to be found...Even though it shows on the schematic wiring diagram. 

No information on algorithm. Limited information as far as sensor chart goes. No info on air flow.

This box is a Bear.  

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Quick
4 minutes ago, Lighthouse said:

Your tech sheet shows it but surely WP would make a mistake on their techsheet😂

Any chance you have that Maytag model number? Is there a service manual for it?

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Lighthouse

There is not a SM for the one I was working. The one you are working use SM 16026313

model I was working on was MFI2269VEM3

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