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Always Affordable Appliance Experts

No power to oven ignitor Maytag gas range

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Always Affordable Appliance Experts

Hi, I have a maytag gas double oven, Model MGT8885XS00.  Everything appears to be functioning properly aside from the fact that there is no power to the top oven igniter.  I am guessing that this is a bad control board, however just want to confirm that there is not anything else that could potentially cause this problem.  Thanks in advance!

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vee8power
28 minutes ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

I am guessing that this is a bad control board

Whatever else is in the ignitor circuit also. For sure there's a gas valve in series with the ignitor, maybe a thermal fuse also.

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Always Affordable Appliance Experts

There is only one gas valve for both the upper oven broiler and bake correct?  If this is correct I don't think that could be the issue as the broiler is working fine.  Can you give me any idea of where the thermistor might be located?  I only had a short time to look at the unit and have not yet pulled a manual for it but my initial thought was it seems like it could be a board issue.  I did notice that some of the insulated was peeled back or worn off of both wires on the back of the oven igniter leaving them partially exposed.  I would assume that this could have caused a short resulting in damage to the board.

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Lighthouse
18 hours ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

There is only one gas valve for both the upper oven broiler and bake correct?  If this is correct I don't think that could be the issue as the broiler is working fine. 

They have to be separate since the valve needs to know where to send the gas. They may be sold as 1 valve but they have separate coils. 

You need to get a voltage reading to the ignitor. Check your voltage at the 2 wires of the ignitor.

If you are not getting voltage then it could be a bad wire, faulty valve or a faulty board.

If you are getting a good voltage reading at the 2 wires of the ignitor and it doesn't work then it is bad. 

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johntech

Test for 120vac at the board on p4-2 and  p6-3. If you do not have 120vac when set to broil then replace the control.

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Always Affordable Appliance Experts
6 hours ago, johntech said:

Test for 120vac at the board on p4-2 and  p6-3. If you do not have 120vac when set to broil then replace the control.

It is the bake igniter that is not getting power.  I already checked for 120 there and nothing

 

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Always Affordable Appliance Experts
8 hours ago, Lighthouse said:

They have to be separate since the valve needs to know where to send the gas. They may be sold as 1 valve but they have separate coils. 

You need to get a voltage reading to the ignitor. Check your voltage at the 2 wires of the ignitor.

If you are not getting voltage then it could be a bad wire, faulty valve or a faulty board.

If you are getting a good voltage reading at the 2 wires of the ignitor and it doesn't work then it is bad. 

As I said before there is power to the upper oven broil igniter, just not the bake.  I already checked for 120 at the bake and nothing.  Are there seperate coils for both the broil and bake igniters on the upper oven?

 

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Lighthouse
33 minutes ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

As I said before there is power to the upper oven broil igniter, just not the bake. I already checked for 120 at the bake and nothing.

 

9 hours ago, Lighthouse said:

If you are not getting voltage then it could be a bad wire, faulty valve or a faulty board.

34 minutes ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

Are there seperate coils for both the broil and bake igniters on the upper oven?

 

9 hours ago, Lighthouse said:

They have to be separate since the valve needs to know where to send the gas. They may be sold as 1 valve but they have separate coils. 

 

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johntech
3 hours ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

I already checked for 120 there and nothing

The next step is to check for voltage out of the board. We need to see if the board is sending voltage to make a conclusive diagnosis. Most likely it will be the board but you may waste time and money if it’s not.

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Always Affordable Appliance Experts

Can anyone answer the question about the insulation on the igniter?  I noticed that there is some insulation worn off of both wires right at the base of the igniter causing about a 1/4" of wire to be exposed on each wire.  I am wondering if this could have caused an arc resulting in a short or damage to the control board.  The igniter is in very good shape so I am planning on just cutting the wires, sliding the insulation forward to correct for it and reconnecting with ceramic wire nuts.  I am just curious if this a possible cause of the problem.

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Lighthouse
4 hours ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

Can anyone answer the question about the insulation on the igniter?  I noticed that there is some insulation worn off of both wires right at the base of the igniter causing about a 1/4" of wire to be exposed on each wire.  I am wondering if this could have caused an arc resulting in a short or damage to the control board.  The igniter is in very good shape so I am planning on just cutting the wires, sliding the insulation forward to correct for it and reconnecting with ceramic wire nuts.  I am just curious if this a possible cause of the problem.

It could cause a problem but

11 hours ago, johntech said:

The next step is to check for voltage out of the board.

I wouldn't waste my time trying to "repair" an ignitor. 

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Budget Appliance Repair

If both of those ignitor wires were worn thru and both contacted the metal body of the stove at the same time and you tried to turn the oven on it would have immediately burned out the bi-metal heater wire inside the gas valve.

You need to remove at least one of the wires from the bake side of the dual bake/broil gas valve and check continuity of the bake side of the gas valve, (should be around 1 Ohm resistance), if open you will have to replace the complete gas valve which is actually only comes as a complete unit with the regulator a single gas safety valve and a dual gas safety valve.

If the dual safety valve  has an open bi-metal heater wire you may be able to find just that dual valve by using the part numbers on the side of the valve, it may cross and not have to purchase the complete regulator and both valves as it is only supplied by the manufacture in that configuration by the model and parts lookup.

Part number: WPW10518493

Part number: WPW10518493

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