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Samsung dryer DLE1101W. Runs but no heat.


Square Deal Appliance

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I have continuity through the heat element and the high limit, so I replaced the control board. Still the same problem. What did I miss? Thanks.

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  • Square Deal Appliance

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On a Samsung dryer the motor has 2 centrifugal switches. One sends power to heater and the other tells the control the motor is spinning so it can send the other leg to the heater. 

But the model number you gave is for an lg dryer so we would need to know what your working on to help.

Edited by johntech
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Ther is one switch in the motor on the model number you listed that sends power to the element when the motor is turning that way it does not heat and catch fire if the motor fails.

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Thank you. Yes the dryer is an LG, not a Samsung. I am completely clueless on the switch you mentioned, though. Never even knew such a thing existed. Is it a replaceable component, or is it integral to the motor? I haven't been able to find it on the parts diagram (not that I know what I'm looking for), so I suspect it is part of a larger assembly.

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1 hour ago, Square Deal Appliance said:

Thank you. Yes the dryer is an LG, not a Samsung. I am completely clueless on the switch you mentioned, though. Never even knew such a thing existed. Is it a replaceable component, or is it integral to the motor? I haven't been able to find it on the parts diagram (not that I know what I'm looking for), so I suspect it is part of a larger assembly.

It’s part of the motor. 

Did you check thermal fuse?

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2 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Did you check thermal fuse?

Yep. thermal is good.

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PROBLEM SOLVED. Please allow me to share the knowledge I have gained from the experience. I had verified there was power on both sides of the 240 plug, but I did it with a squawk stick, not a voltmeter. You guessed it. 40 volts on one leg. It was an old house with screw-in fuses. When the fuse blew, the metal debris inside fell together in just the perfect way for it to spot-weld. The bugger actually tests for continuity, and passes enough voltage to activate a squawker, but doesn't come close to powering a heat element.  I don't know if I'm more put-out that I spent 4 hours researching every nut and bolt of this dryer, or if I'm just glad its fixed.

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42 minutes ago, Square Deal Appliance said:

PROBLEM SOLVED. Please allow me to share the knowledge I have gained from the experience. I had verified there was power on both sides of the 240 plug, but I did it with a squawk stick, not a voltmeter. You guessed it. 40 volts on one leg. It was an old house with screw-in fuses. When the fuse blew, the metal debris inside fell together in just the perfect way for it to spot-weld. The bugger actually tests for continuity, and passes enough voltage to activate a squawker, but doesn't come close to powering a heat element.  I don't know if I'm more put-out that I spent 4 hours researching every nut and bolt of this dryer, or if I'm just glad its fixed.

Haha you're not the only one.   I had the same thing a few days ago at a buddies house.   The display on my voltmeter broke a few days ago,  but it could still test for continuity.  Squawk stick confirmed power at outlet.  I asked my buddy several times if he checked both legs of the breaker,  he finally barked "I KNOW HOW TO CHECK A DOUBLE POLE BREAKER."   Started checking switch, thermal fuses, etc.   All good.  Checked breaker and voila, halfway tripped.     Don't trust ANYBODY,  not even your friends, when it comes to stuff like this!!!  And keep a spare voltmeter in truck!

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13 hours ago, Square Deal Appliance said:

I don't know if I'm more put-out that I spent 4 hours researching every nut and bolt of this dryer, or if I'm just glad its fixed.

You spent 4 hours of training on something that will stick with you and save you time down the road.

Invest in a wiggy for load testing circuits. Money well spent.

I use this one https://www.amazon.com/Knopp-K-60-Cat-Number-14460/dp/B003A7T5KG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526722075&sr=8-4&keywords=solenoid+voltage+tester

Samurai uses one similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVNSLG/?coliid=I251VAGP3X02A3&colid=1F6PATCX4PY9D&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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On 5/19/2018 at 3:31 AM, Lighthouse said:

nvest in a wiggy for load testing circuits. Money well spent.

Advantages over  a regular DMM? I dont see it 

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58 minutes ago, LearningTech said:

Advantages over  a regular DMM? I dont see it 

Me either as long as your DMM has loading meter functionality. 

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4 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

as your DMM has loading meter functionality. 

that is the key right there.

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  • 2 months later...
On 5/18/2018 at 2:28 PM, Square Deal Appliance said:

PROBLEM SOLVED. Please allow me to share the knowledge I have gained from the experience. I had verified there was power on both sides of the 240 plug, but I did it with a squawk stick, not a voltmeter. You guessed it. 40 volts on one leg. It was an old house with screw-in fuses. When the fuse blew, the metal debris inside fell together in just the perfect way for it to spot-weld. The bugger actually tests for continuity, and passes enough voltage to activate a squawker, but doesn't come close to powering a heat element.  I don't know if I'm more put-out that I spent 4 hours researching every nut and bolt of this dryer, or if I'm just glad its fixed.

My girlfriend and I have this same dryer in each of our houses, bought them at the same time about 5 years ago.  Hers stoped heating. I replaced the thermostat and thermistor by the blower and still no heat. I tested the element and its attached parts with a multimeter; all tested well but still no heat. Local shop said buy a new board for $150. Another local shop said by a new user panel for $85.  So I swapped both of those components from my dryer to hers - still no heat.  Was about to pull my hair out and then read this thread  

So I flipped the breakers at the panel, flipped them back on...HEAT!  Never thought to check the breakers since it was powering on and running, so lesson learned. Like you, I’m not sure if I’m mad that I wasted all that time or happy it’s fixed and I didn’t buy any expensive parts.

Thanks for the help, gentlemen!

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