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qkcam

GE JGP326AEV1AA Stove top doesn't click or light.

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qkcam

Hi I found your article on how to diagnose gas stovetop ignition problems .  I've been trying to help a dear friend with her new used gas cooktop .  It does not ignite or click and I think trying to find how I test the spark module ? I have been able to check out a multi meter from the local to library .  And after much searching I am grateful to have found your article and forum. 

 

 I will use the multi meter to test the igniters for continuity as well as the wires that lead from the spark module to the igniters .  I am however perplexed on how to test the spark module .

 In reading your article I have a question 

How do I " verify that the spark module is getting the 120v on terminal L when you turn on any one of the surface switches"

 My friend said she's fine with lighting the stove with match however she's 65 and I feel safer if the stove top worked properly .

 

 A another thing I am  considering is building a cheat cord and test for spark.  I watched a video of someone doing this.  His cheat cord was a three prong plug on one end and two alligator clips on the other end .  If I build my own cheat cord which two wires do I use for the alligator clips and what do I do with the third wire ?

Thank you for this place of learning.

 

 

 

 

 

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Lighthouse

You would need to do a live voltage check on this so you need to be very careful. I would suggest that if you are not used to dealing with live electricity then get someone who is.

There should be a yellow wire & a white wire going to the module. Put your meter probes on these terminals and see if you have 120 volts when the control knob is turned to ignite.

If you have 120 volts there and module is not sparking then you need a new module.

If you do not have 120 volts there then you need to find out if it a problem with the voltage that should be supplied by the yellow wire or is it a problem with the white wire which is the  neutral.

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evaappliance

In addition, be sure to turn the gas off before testing .  

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qkcam

thank you Lighthouse and evaappliance

I was thinking of taking the spark meter out and connecting it to a testing wire(which would give it voltage) then see if it's getting any spark, like in this video . 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjjPCJnwUWs&app=desktop

 

otherwise can't i just be careful and test the L1 N1 terminals with the mulit meter as long as i dont touch them with anything other than the leads i should be ok, right? 

 

no i dont know what i am doing.as far as live electricity..  that is way maybe the video idea above seems safer for me.    what i am doing is trying to help a friend that doesn't have a budget to hire someone..  also she says she doesn't care if it doesn't spark and light she said she doesn't mind using matches.  

 

I will definitely turn off the gas.   that valve needs to be changed out too.. it is not so easy to turn.. it must have been put there in the 1920

appreciate the feedback. thank you

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Lighthouse
9 hours ago, qkcam said:

I was thinking of taking the spark meter out and connecting it to a testing wire(which would give it voltage) then see if it's getting any spark

I wouldn't remove the whole module if I tested with a cheater cord. Leaving the ignitors connected would be safer & easier.

9 hours ago, qkcam said:

can't i just be careful and test the L1 N1 terminals with the mulit meter as long as i dont touch them with anything other than the leads i should be ok, right?

correct

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qkcam

thanks for all the feedback and support.  I was able to get it working pretty good just cleaning the contacts and putting things back together.   Now only one of the burners has intermitting non clicking and lighting..the rest seem ok.   at this point I think it is the spark module.   although i am not really sure how to test it. 

do I need to replace it with that exact same park number or can I get a less expensive replacement as long as it has the N  L  and 4 connections for burners?

thanks again!

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evaappliance

If it is just one not doing well it will most likely be a issue with that one igniter or burner. You can swap two of the leads at the spark module, if the problem stays with the same burner , that will be the case.

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qkcam

I tested the igniter and the leads with continuity setting on this multi meter .

 They had good continuity .  I had the same idea to swap the burners and see what the results will be thinking it  may be the switch .  Will try this  next time I get over there. thanks for the help 

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