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Old Admiral stove ARE35083 gradually stopped working


ingwis

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Model # ARE35083

So we have an Admiral stove which is at least 15 years old. It had been working fine but at one point last year 2 of the burners stopped working. We were fine just using the other ones. Then the other day, I was using the remaining 2 burners at the same time, and everything stopped working, from the oven to all the stovetop burners to the timer. I tried resetting the breaker from the circuit panel but that did nothing. I saw something online about how some ovens have a reset button on the unit but I don't see anything like that. Anyway I figured since the last problem happened after a certain demand on several parts at once, it was a fuse issue so I bought a bunch of fuses to replace them, but turns out I have to go back to the store as they're not all the same wattage and I'm missing a few. 

So I was wondering if someone could confirm that it's a simple fuse replacement issue before I go spending more money on fuses? It would be greatly appreciated as we are students with a low budget!

Needless to say I know next to nothing about this stuff so please dumb it down a little lol!

Have a fantastic day!
 

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you have had a good run for 15 years . I suggest you just replace it.   There are a numerous things that can be wrong with why its not working . Not sure where to begin with the model # you have given. Are you sure that is the correct model # ?  the number you supplied does not seem to be correct.      Is it CRE35083  ??    if its electric most likely the terminal blocks for the top burners are burnt out and just need replacing.  If its an electric stove , The top should lift up from the front with a putty knife and there should be a kick stand there to hold up the top.  usually the wiring for the top burner coils will arc out and trip the breaker.  inspect the electric burner coils and change any bad terminal blocks and that should repair the top burners.    remember to make sure the power is definately shut off.    There is 240 volts AC present there and its dangerous

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You talk of fuse, (if you are talking about fuses in the house circuit fuse box), if these are the screw in fuses of different wattage they would not be your problem.   The single screw in fuses are for the lower amperage wall plugs and house lighting.

Usually the 220 Volt AC circuits are a big square black plug with a handle in the middle of the fuse box, most of the time you will have two of these to handle two separate 220 Volt AC circuits, (IE: Electric water heater, Electric Range, Electric Dryer).

These plugs each contain two large cartridge fuses the high amperage electric appliances, (Usual 2x30AMP for dryer, 2x50AMP for range, 2x30AMP for water heater).

To check these large cartridge fuses you have to use a meter to check if they have continuity or not, (OPEN fuse equals BAD).

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Thanks William! I meant the little fuses that in my case can be screwed in to  a panel on the stove itself. Can I check for continuity from the house circuit fuse box or somewhere on the stove? 

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On 10/23/2018 at 3:56 PM, ingwis said:

Model # ARE35083

So we have an Admiral stove which is at least 15 years old. It had been working fine but at one point last year 2 of the burners stopped working. We were fine just using the other ones. Then the other day, I was using the remaining 2 burners at the same time, and everything stopped working, from the oven to all the stovetop burners to the timer. I tried resetting the breaker from the circuit panel but that did nothing. I saw something online about how some ovens have a reset button on the unit but I don't see anything like that. Anyway I figured since the last problem happened after a certain demand on several parts at once, it was a fuse issue so I bought a bunch of fuses to replace them, but turns out I have to go back to the store as they're not all the same wattage and I'm missing a few. 

So I was wondering if someone could confirm that it's a simple fuse replacement issue before I go spending more money on fuses? It would be greatly appreciated as we are students with a low budget!

Needless to say I know next to nothing about this stuff so please dumb it down a little lol!

Have a fantastic day!
 

did you check under the top like I mentioned ! !   I bet one of the last two top  burner coils that were working that  you were hanging on to for some reason ,  one of them has arced out from it's terminal block and has grounded out and tripped the breaker at the panel . It has  probably welded itself to the frame.    Also as I mentioned , double check your model # of the stove .   nothing comes up under ARE35083 ???   The information your giving is vague and incomplete ???    I suggest you get a qualified repair tech to look at your stove for you to be on the safe side.  good luck  

Edited by darren412
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On 10/26/2018 at 1:06 AM, darren412 said:

did you check under the top like I mentioned ! !   I bet one of the last two top  burner coils that were working that  you were hanging on to for some reason ,  one of them has arced out from it's terminal block and has grounded out and tripped the breaker at the panel . It has  probably welded itself to the frame.    Also as I mentioned , double check your model # of the stove .   nothing comes up under ARE35083 ???   The information your giving is vague and incomplete ???    I suggest you get a qualified repair tech to look at your stove for you to be on the safe side.  good luck  

Thanks! I tried to get under the top, I could get it partway up but then it's screwed into the back panel at a point where I can't even get to it to unscrew it (tiny space). ?

I'm giving as much info as I can based on my limited technical vocabulary and electrical knowledge. Also that's 100% the model #, I think it's because it was made In Canada so it's harder to recognize the number. See attached pics. Stove.jpgStove%202.jpg

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