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qkcam

Frigidaire FFGF3005mwb oven Thermostat replace

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qkcam

HI   
 Frigidaire FFGF3005mwb oven was coming on but not getting up to the correct temperature, it was pretty low, yet all the burners were light by the ignitor.    I just ordered and installed a new replacement T-stat from amazon . part number  Frigidaire 316032411 Oven Thermostat

I plugged the stove back in and turned on the oven.  the igniter came on but did not ignite, so no heat at all.    I am wondering if the new thermostat may be bad?  I guess i can put the old one back in tomorrow and see what happens.    I am not understanding why the igniter is not firing  when i attempt to turn the oven on  the igniter looks more like pilot light. 

wondering if there was something I needed to do but did not?   

also the old t stat had a grey cardboard box around it.   the new one that came today from amazon did not.    

thanks for your time and expertise. 

cheri

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16345Ed

Probably a bad ignitor all along...

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evaappliance
38 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

Probably a bad ignitor all along...

Yep,  2nd that.

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Budget Appliance Repair

I'll third that, and the cardboard cover over the old t-stat is to be transferred to the new t-stat.

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qkcam

If the igniter is bad would it work intermittently?  I turned the oven on this morning and used an electrical testing on each end of the connections noting that one side didn't show any electrical activity.  I tried to push the plug in a bit tighter and the igniter then came on.     So either I just didn't ,have the electrical connections in tight enough or the igniter is going out. would the igniter work intermittently if it's going out?  it came on strong and hot this morning .

 I was wondering what the little cardboard box does ?. What is its purpose?    I will glue or tape it back together and reassemble it around the thermostat .

Thanks for the help!

 

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16345Ed

Yes, ignitors fail as your compliant stated. 

Just because it glows doesn’t mean it’s working properly. 

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16345Ed
11 hours ago, qkcam said:

Frigidaire FFGF3005mwb oven was coming on but not getting up to the correct temperature, 

This is often a failing ignitor on a gas oven. 

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qkcam

What is the  best way to test it now? should be to get an oven thermometer ? 

 What's the the plate called that sits above the igniter ?  I noticed one side of it seems really tarnished kinda looks like  soot.   Figure since I have the oven apart now's a good time to clean things .

 The old thermostat probe was very discolored .  Is that normal after time ?  This oven is only 3 years old three years maybe .

Thanks for the help

 

 

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16345Ed
7 hours ago, qkcam said:

What's the the plate called that sits above the igniter

Flame defector

soot is not good, where there is soot there is also CO2. Usually an incorrect fuel to air mixture  

 

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16345Ed

Oh above ignitor I just refer to it as oven floor. 

Edited by 16345Ed

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qkcam

I  found the part number when i looked up the schematics. I guess some call it a Baffle  . 

as long as it works well enough to bake a potato and some meat. I will be happy.   I have to wait until tomorrow to either get to tool library to borrow a multi meter, then i can test both the thermostat and the ignition.   anyone know what the reading for the igniter should be when using a multi meter? 

and or borrow or buy an oven thermometer so i can see what the temp is getting too.    

I took the oven floor baffle out and cleaned it with soap and water.  stuff came off pretty good.  

as far as CO2- that may explain why every time I use the oven the smoke /carbon monoxide detector goes off.   I ended up taking the batteries out of the detector.   I dont think the owners  would believe me if i told them it was CO2 coming from the oven.   they didn't   dont believe there is an issue with the subfloor in the bathroom that got wet from a leak next door..  moisture meter reads 80 %  on the subfloor, but their "professionals"  say  it isn't wet.     I had to get rid of the wet plaster myself, as again the "professionals" said  it's not wet, despite a 100% reading on the moisture meter.    anyway.  I got side tracked.   how can i "prove" to them that the oven is emmetting CO2? 

usually it is warm enough here i can cook with at least a window open, and often i have an outside door open.     except when we had horrible smoke from the fires, I had all windows and doors closed and the oven  had it it's own little smoke issue going on while cooking  not sure what that was,  but the problem with the temperature started after that day.   the oven was smoking so bad I  had to disconnect smoke detector in the back room.

thanks

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16345Ed
39 minutes ago, qkcam said:

anyone know what the reading for the igniter should be when using a multi meter

To test ignitors we use amp meters to test amp draw of ignitor circuit. Looking for at least 3.3 amps but a new ignitor can be 3.7. 

 

43 minutes ago, qkcam said:

how can i "prove" to them that the oven is emmetting CO2?

Show them the soot. 

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16345Ed

All gas ranges should have range/vent hoods that exhaust outdoors. They all emit some CO2 that’s why ventilation is important. 

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qkcam

I washed the soot off.  they wont know what it means anyway.  I showed them the reading with the moisture meter and they didn't care.   I think the city has a code that the stove is to be vented. I could push it if I wanted to , but I am not ready to have a major overhaul in this little place and my rent to go up more. 

  the "upgraded " apartments have stoves vented to outdoors .

I dont believe the tool library has an amp meter.     Something is very strange   the igniter was coming on just fine earlier flaming down the tube. .  i just went in and reattached the little cardboard box and now the igniter only comes on but does not flame.   I used the voltage testing pen and it shows green on both ends of the connections.   earlier when it was working I am pretty sure the voltage tester was beeping and red.   I unplugged and reattached the clips to the  pins on the t stat  but still no dice and no hot oven. 

seems like i can order an igniter for under $20 that will come with ceramic wire nuts.   I wonder if that is really safe or if i should just pay the extra and get one with the  plugs.  also I wonder if it is too sensitive to ship through amazon or ebay?  I will call tomorrow to see how much a local part store wants.   

baffling to me why it seemed to work so well earlier today, but not firing up this evening.  

thanks for the help. 

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qkcam

I guess i can find a way to use the muilti meter as an amp meter.  the one from the library only has two probes.  the amp meters i have seem clamp around the wires, is that right? 

what i thought was going to be an easy  plug in the new t stat and play  is turning into a bit more time consumption than I had hoped.   

the joys of learning~ !  I am grateful to  have such good help on this forum.   thank you

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qkcam

the mulitmeter at the tool library is a fluke..kinda like this one but much older I believe.   it is grey.   have no idea how to measure amps with the 2 probes.  thinking i will need to get some clips.  seems maybe easier and safer just to replace the igniter  since that seems to be the consisince of the group regarding the issue.   I can use the mulitmeter I hope to test the thermostat if it turns out the old one was good, I can return the new one.    the old one was pretty discolored  mostly black with a little copper showing here and there. 

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-175

 

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16345Ed

If ignitor is getting voltage just replace it.  

It will fix your problem. 

Edited by 16345Ed
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evaappliance

If you put a new igniter on you have a 99.9% chance of fixing your problem .  We have seen this so much that if it glows and don’t light on any oven with this type igniter, I just get a new on off the truck and install it . About once every two or three years we will run into one with a more serious issue, but this one issue is so repetitive that we can say just put a new one on 

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Budget Appliance Repair

The original t-stat sensor bulb being discolored it completely normal - after a few uses the new one will look the same way.

Return the new t-stat if you can - you don't need it.

The cardboard cover over the t-stat is just for safety/protective measures to keep anything from getting jammed into the internals when cleaning in that area,  (would not change how it operates if it were left off but leaves some of the wire terminal area uncovered/unprotected).

You can check the voltage drop across the gas safety valve with the standard multimeter - should read 3.0 VAC - 3.3 VAC range, (I could be wrong on that, I don't use and haven't used this method for a long time so don't know the actual specs - I'm sure someone else can elaborate and correct my specs if wrong).

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qkcam

does it matter if I get the cheaper igniter with  the ceramic nuts instead of the connectors ? 

 I could borrow a Solder tool from the tool library and solder the old connectors onto the new igniter . 

 The oven fired right up again this morning .  For some strange reason every time I unplug the electricity to the oven and then re-plug it it never fires right up has to wait hours .  When I unplugged it last night to put the cardboard box on and plugged it back and it didn't fire up.   this morning it comes on fine this is the exact same scenario that happened the night before .  

 I am looking forward to getting the igniter and getting this resolved hopefully there's not some other strange issue .  

 I appreciate all the suggestions and help .

Do you use the igniters with ceramic nuts?  

 

 

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certified tech group 51

you can use P/N 5303935066 ...A bit cheaper then the stock part...... Frigidaire part....

Edited by certified tech group 51
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evaappliance
16 minutes ago, qkcam said:

does it matter if I get the cheaper igniter with  the ceramic nuts instead of the connectors

it will work just fine.

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qkcam

thanks all ! this is a big help!  the local shops cost  for P/N 5303935066   $44. to $63 depending on shop.   I can get one online  for about $19 from amazon.

I have read they can get broken during shipment if miss handled?   is this anything to worry about? 

bummer I wont be able to get the multimeter until sat or monday , unless someone returns it early.     so far the igniter is coming on and the oven heated up a little frozen quiche I had.   sure beats the 3 hours to cook a tiny sweet potato like on sunday.

will an oven thermometer be helpful in determining anything at this point? or wait for the multimeter? 

thank you!

 

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evaappliance
1 hour ago, qkcam said:

they can get broken during shipment if miss handled?   is this anything to worry about? 

yes  ,  worth the extra to see it before you pay for it .   ask for the aftermarket one ( er 5303935066 ) and it will be about $27

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qkcam

thanks evvappliance, when i called the two places I did use the part number you referenced this morning.  Thank you by the way. 

the first place said $62.82  and the second place said they have an aftermarket version for $ 43.15 and that includes a discount code  the gentlemen told me to reference when I come in.

in the meantime   abs and brake light came on   on old truck so had to take to the shop.   the igniter might have to wait until I get my wheels back.  

I will see if I can find any more places to call tomorrow and hopefully find a lower price.   Living in the bay area I think everything more expensive here. 

what is  it I will be looking for when i see it?   

thanks for the help.

if the oven keeps on working I may wait another week to get the igniter. 

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