Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Use code 10YEARS10 to get 10% off your Appliantology membership. Click here for more ×
Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Speed Queen Dryer smoking L1 to H power lead


milo97

Recommended Posts

Hello to the forum.

Model ADE4BRGS171TW01 Speed Queen. Has been flawless for 10 years, then the timer dial froze and the contacts broke when forced, causing a no heat situation. Visited the local oem parts center and replaced the timer, fabric selector switch, upper and lower limit switches, belt, and heating element, even though everything checked out with an ohmmeter test. I am a journey level auto mechanic by trade and just wanted a trouble free future. Two weeks later, (wife and two kids), the dryer has no heat again. The orange power wire from fabric selector L1 to timer terminal H is melted at timer terminal. It was slightly charred at the same terminal when I replaced the original timer. So I figured it was compromised and replaced the L1 to H wire with new 600v quality wire and terminals. Two weeks later, no heat again. Same L1 to H wire is now melted/smoked at both terminals equally. Dryer was still functioning, never having tripped a breaker, just no heat. Does any of this give a sensible direction for troubleshooting? I threw the old fabric selector out, but have the old limit switches. Little frazzled going into the holiday weekend with only Saturday to get oem parts. TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 6
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • milo97

    4

  • evaappliance

    3

Top Posters In This Topic

If the terminal is discolored you got a bad new timer . Put a new one on , if the terminal itself is not discolored  , your connection was not good. very important to have a tight connection on that wire. If you use crimp on ends without soldering them it will fail . Very seldom have needed to replace the other switches, and the element is probably good if installed properly, pull the wires off and ohm from the terminals to the body of the dryer just to be sure your element isn’t shorted to ground. Probably not but just to be sure.   Good luck !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember when installing the new timer, the H terminal was a dull gray vs the stainless shiny look of the other terminals. It still looks the same with no heat damage apparent. However, the L1 terminal on the fabric selector is plainly cooked, including the phenolic case at the terminals base. I did use crimp on stainless terminals from the appliance parts house, they did not have brass.

Thank you for your time evaappliance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My local oem parts supplier is closed until 1/2/19. My selector switch is #511492. It appears to have been superseded several times to part #D513506. My only hope for a part right now, would be Amazon. But I do not see the correct switch available via them. Was looking for a brand crossover chart for what looks to be a fairly generic 4 position temperature switch, but cannot find one on line. Was thinking maybe another manufacturer's switch would be available on Amazon. Dear wife will be line-drying in the house if not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is very strange, was the new timer sealed in the original bag ?  I have had to put a few selector switches on over the years but not to many. I would recommend using original parts.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also a new factory wire from the l1 to h is part # d510540.       You can get by for a little while by connecting the l1 coming in to the fabric switch to the #2 wire coming out . It will be on regular high heat. Just keep an eye on it till you can fix it properly !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did use oem factory parts. I want to say the timer came in a box, but cannot remember. I tossed the old parts/packaging. I asked about a new factory L1 to H wire originally, and was told "not available" and just replace with matching wire and the stainless terminals. Thank you for the part # as I intend to order one. After looking at my parts receipt, I was mistaken about replacing the fabric switch. I did ask for one, but they did not have it in stock so re-used the original one #511492. I opened it up as it was quite fried. The center phenolic wheel/cam was completely burnt causing it to swell/expand over a 3/8" area. I believe the cams swelling caused full time contact of the L1 spreader bar onto the circuits contacts. So no way to fix the current selector. 

Thanks evaappliance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...