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CptnCatholic

GE Electric Dryer DPSE810EG5WT (Not Hot Enough)

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CptnCatholic

Greetings!

I have been working on our dryer this week. For several months it would take us 2-3 cycles just to get one load completely dry. I finally opened it and was able to remove the drum and watch the heating element light up when turning it on. The element was only bright on the outside coils, but the inside coils did light up some. 

So I removed the heating element and housing and checked the heating element and thermostats for continuity. They all passed except for the inlet thermistor. So I ordered a new one. The new one arrived today and I immediately checked it for continuity, aaaaand it didn't pass either. 

So I jumped back onto google to find more information, and came across this post (https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/50215-GE-Dryer-Should-Inlet-Control-Thermostat-WE4M398-pass-continuity-test) that explained how to properly test the thermistor for continuity. And now BOTH of them showed continuity. 

The above forum post also mentioned checking the power terminals to rule out a faulty breaker. So I did that too. L1-L2 read 240, L1-N read 120, L2-N read 120. 

So, that's as far as I got. I'm all out of ideas. Anyone one have recommendations?

Thank you!
TC

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Omar Gonzalez

A thermistor is checked using temperature and ohms dont try to check with continuity. First I would start by checking your vents. Is the dryer venting directly to the outside or how long are the vents. Make sure their is no obstructions and that they are clean. Remove the vent and check the temperature on you dryer. Then put the vent  back on and check it again.

If not check for voltage. Is it getting a full 240v to the dryer. Remove the cover from the back of the dryer and check between L1 and L2 you should get around 240v and the between L1 and N and L2 and N make sure you get 120v individually.

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evaappliance

Omar is right about the vent,  check that real good first . Ge dryers are bad about one coil going bad , it will be into if it is , sometimes it is hard to see cause it burns into inside one of the insulators . Those are the two most common things with your symptoms 

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16345Ed

Yep, I’m betting on vent restriction, but could be heating element as eva suggests. 

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CptnCatholic

Hey guys!

Thank you for the responses! I wanted to post an update.

I ended up ordering a new heating element and I made sure that the exhaust lines were clear. And we were back in business.

For about a week.

The dryer started making a lot of squeaking noise and I discovered that the font support bearing had cracked and the drum had caused it to collapse. Further, wires leading to the bulb socket got exposed and the drum caused a short between the wires. 

So, over the weekend I put in a new front bearing, with new slides, and a new bulb socket with the wiring.

Now the dryer is not heating at all. The new heating element is not even getting lukewarm. It still checks out for continuity, along with all the thermostats and thermistors and flux capacitors. So, it sounds like the heating element just isn’t getting any juice. Perhaps some other wires shorted out besides the bulb socket? 

Any recommendations?

Thank you!
TC

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Budget Appliance Repair

Have you checked your house circuit breaker?  If you shorted wires to front it may have tripped the breaker but the light would usually be on the same line as the motor so it would seem the motor side should be tripped if any but anything is possible and that is the first thing to check for.

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