repairing Kitchenaid gas range KGSS907SSS00

[babbobubba]

Kitchenaid gas range mod #  KGSS907SSS00

Range is 11 years old and suddenly the oven won't heat past about 200 degrees.  Called in the repair guy who at first thought it was the igniter but decided it was likely the valve and said the repair would be $300 inc the part. I trust the guy but am trying to decide if $300 is a bad investment in a range this old. Should I fix it or buy a new one? Thanks.

[16345Ed]

On 2/2/2019 at 12:28 AM, babbobubba said:

Kitchenaid gas range mod #  KGSS907SSS00

Range is 11 years old and suddenly the oven won't heat past about 200 degrees.  Called in the repair guy who at first thought it was the igniter but decided it was likely the valve and said the repair would be $300 inc the part. I trust the guy but am trying to decide if $300 is a bad investment in a range this old. Should I fix it or buy a new one? Thanks.

That’s your choice. Hard to make that call for you. 

Im surprised a bad valve was heating at all though...

[evaappliance]

A little concerned about the diagnosis, that setup is very tricky to diagnose ,  as 16345ed said it would be strange to have a bad valve. If I bought a new on I would find one that has the old style gas components.    

[babbobubba]

Update and recap...

Kitchenaid gas range model KGSS907SSS00, nine years old, cooktop works fine but oven can take an hour to go from off to 250 degrees and doesn't want to go higher.  Sometimes an increase of one degree can take two minutes!  This is equally true of regular and convect bake options. 

I could never get the guy who diagnosed a bad valve to come back (or even return my calls) so I had a second guy come in. He says it is the sensor AND the motherboard and is not worth repairing.  I'd be grateful for your opinions and diagnoses.  No error code is displayed BTW, but if I press OFF, OFF, ON I get a display like this:

STATUS L/D MOD ID 0101
AM16 UI15 EEKGO-245  (or 275?)

MANY thanks.

[McG&Son]

I can see this column is a bit dated but I just got finished looking at one of these ranges and I had an issue with bake and broil not working. I entered the fault diagnostics, OFF, OFF, START and then had to hit the number 3 button to see fault codes. It told me the self clean door lock thought it was locked. After taking a look at this I disconnected the micro switches and the oven started working. I know this won’t be the same for everyone but it is an easy thing to check. Good luck all. 

[LiveLonger]

I also noted this thread is dated, but I came across the same issue, bake and broil not working.  I entered the diagnostic mode, hit #3 and error code reported F2 E1 - Key pad disconnected.  Performed the dance, checked and cleaned connections, same error.  While at it I wanted to check potential suspects and found gas distribution valve terminal 2 w/no continuity.  Work in progress.

 For babbobubba and future readers- after entering diagnostic mode press #3 for error codes displayed in last two digits of the clock, then reference tech sheet under warming drawer for definition.   

[16345Ed]

On 8/8/2019 at 3:25 PM, babbobubba said:

Update and recap...

Kitchenaid gas range model KGSS907SSS00, nine years old, cooktop works fine but oven can take an hour to go from off to 250 degrees and doesn't want to go higher.  Sometimes an increase of one degree can take two minutes!  This is equally true of regular and convect bake options. 

I could never get the guy who diagnosed a bad valve to come back (or even return my calls) so I had a second guy come in. He says it is the sensor AND the motherboard and is not worth repairing.  I'd be grateful for your opinions and diagnoses.  No error code is displayed BTW, but if I press OFF, OFF, ON I get a display like this:

STATUS L/D MOD ID 0101
AM16 UI15 EEKGO-245  (or 275?)

MANY thanks.

Another bad diagnosis 

very, very rare for 2 parts to fail. 
 

Could be board OR sensor not likely both. 

[hawaii_bake]

Hi there, new to the forum... so on this thread...

we have same problem oven will not reach temperature (gas portion not working) top burners work 100%

Had a chance to test the oven valve and checks out OK 216ohms both sides.

So next step would be to check the DSI board to make sure there is 120VAC at J1-4 to J1-7,  etc...

so my question how do we get to the board and still be able to have the control panel connected?

Any procedures to get to the boards ?

thank you for your help

Daniel

[16345Ed]

12 hours ago, hawaii_bake said:

Hi there, new to the forum... so on this thread...

we have same problem oven will not reach temperature (gas portion not working) top burners work 100%

Had a chance to test the oven valve and checks out OK 216ohms both sides.

So next step would be to check the DSI board to make sure there is 120VAC at J1-4 to J1-7,  etc...

so my question how do we get to the board and still be able to have the control panel connected?

Any procedures to get to the boards ?

thank you for your help

Daniel

Remove back panels

 

[hawaii_bake]

Hi 16345Ed

Removing back panels do not expose the boards... the boards are under the top burners and is a total pain to get to them to diagnose.

btw... it looks like our issue was the latch; which is disconnected now and the over works

 

regardless it would be nice to know how to diagnose the boards

thank  you

Daniel

[hawaii_bake]

Hi Everyone...

So we disconnected the oven door latch and the oven worked for a few days...

now it decided not to ignite anymore..

suggestions?

thanks

[Tquery1]

I just read a couple of  those / that doesnt sound right/ have a special built range with an  appliance manager board and a gas valve module  for some one to be able to direct you on how to troubleshoot that on the internet  is crazy / / time to call a factory rep/ I CAN TELL YOU THAT PREVIOUS ADVISE ABOUT THE DOOR LOCK ISNT IN ANY SERVICE BULLITENS/

All the evidence points to the appliance manager board though measurements should tell the tale