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Popa_omero

Kenmore 22353 Help

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Popa_omero

We have a two year old Kenmore 110.22352510, AKA VMW 22352. This has started acting very strangely, skipping cycles and stopping before it is finished with the wash. 

A few days ago I dug into this and figured out how to read the error codes. It had codes F7E5 and F8E1. The F7E5 called out the shift actuator, which I replaced. The F8E1 is the slow filling alarm. I checked the hoses and though the hot water has more pressure than the cold, they both are supplying plenty of water at the outlet of the hose. The machine does fill slowly. 

After replacing the shift actuator the machine ran a couple of loads correctly. Now, three days on, it is back to not finishing cycles. In particular, it never spins (unless you put it in one of the two spin modes) and when it is "done" it turns on the wash light, not the complete light. (In the spin modes, when it finishes, the complete light comes on.) A repeat check of the codes show that the there is only the F8E1 code. The F7E5 is not present. The lid lock is working properly, turning on the light and locking the lid. 

Any suggestions on how to fix this machine or dig into it further?

 

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Popa_omero

An update on this. I ran the  Automatic Test Mode and the machine performed all of its functions correctly. I also ran the manual Cold Valve test. This also performed correctly though the water flow in the test seemed better then when the machine is operating normally. 

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darren412

did you erase the codes  ?     if you erase them  , then check them during your diagnostic tests. sometimes it will bring up a code that may help you.  The f8E1 may be an old code.  Check and hear if its louder than normal in high spin.  A bad gear case bearing can bring up F7  errors.       also look underneath and remove the plastic cage covering the motor and  gearcase pulley. Make sure the pulley is not loose and there are no obstructions around the spluth above the pulley.  

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dave2543

Hi Popa, if there was a tech sheet in there, it will tell you how to test the water level sensing parts.  Also at this point, you should probably pull the basket and make sure there is nothing dragging between the tub and basket.  Basket should not be sticking to the shaft either.  

I cant attach a tech sheet I have for similar model, but here is the file name to help you search for it.  W10677676  MVWX655.  In case you have no tech sheet.  AND You should probably throw a h2o  pressure age on your faucet, pressure should probably  be between 40 and 60 psi if your house regulator was never changed from the factory defaults, and is working OK.  And check the screens while you got the hoses off.  Extra steps are Simple stuff but sometimes catches some odd one in a jillion problems that resist diagnosis.

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Popa_omero

Thanks for the response. i found the tech sheet online and I have read it thoroughly. I used this to run the automated test and the cold water valve test. The machine actually did two loads yesterday without any problems. I suspect water pressure may be the issue. We have been doing some plumbing that requires the water to be shut off and after turning the water back on, we do tend to get some sediment. Note that we do have a sediment filter and I check the screens. We are on a well and our normal water pressure is in the 30 to 40 pound range but never more. 

Can you tell me more about the hose screens? Our current hoses do not have screen in them as others have. There is sort of coarse screen at the machine intake but it does not seem clogged in any way. Our sediment is usually quite fine. Is there another filter that I should be checking? 

 

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dave2543

Hi Popa, I hope it is still working for you.  Some hoses don't have screens.  In city water situations, I like to see screens on the faucet end of the hose, as they catch most debris, and are easier to get to than the screens in the water valve on the machine. The machine only has screens on the inlet to the water valves.  

 

Based on experience as a laundry tech for about 5 years,  I would think 40 is right at the lower limit for successful pressure, regardless of what the specs may or may not say.  For a few years I was the back country water system tech.  Is your pressure coming from a captive air tank? If so the bladder may be water logged, or there is a buildup of crud in the tank itself limiting how much expansion the bladder can have.  Is there a regulator anywhere in the system?  Low static pressure, and low flow under load are classic symptoms of a sticky regulator.  However regulators are most commonly associated with city or water district supplied houses.  If you have a pressure tank or captive air tank,   There should be little  drop in psi between the captive air tank or pressure tank outlet and the washing machine faucet, with water flowing to a load, from the time flow starts, until the pump kicks back on.  If you tee the gage into the cold water between the faucet and the hose going to the water valve you can find out.

Good luck  Bud!

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Popa_omero

Here's an update on our situation. The washer worked flawlessly for a few loads after changing out the shift actuator. Then it started goofing up the loads - stopping somewhere between the wash cycle and the final spin cycle, stopping and turning on the wash light. We checked the hoses again and all seemed well.  Then the machine started working correctly again. It ran ten or more loads perfectly then goofed up again in a delicate cycle load. All the heavy/normal cycles continued to be OK. Yesterday my wife ran two delicate loads and it did fine. 

I'm thinking that our problem is the water pressure. Our pump and pressure tank are fine, but we just never have pressure above 50psi and that is the max. It is usually somewhat less than that as the tank cycles down and restarts the well pump. I can't explain why low pressure causes the errors we see, but they do seem related. Going  back to the beginning of this issue, I had been doing some plumbing in an adjoining bathroom that required shutting off the water to both the laundry and bathroom as well a requiring the whole house to be shut down for one activity. Shutting off the water seems to put the pump, pressure tank and sediment filter our of kilter for a bit. We will continue to monitor the machine, but for now it is working as it should with no further repairs. 

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dave2543

Hi Poppa, the low pressure will definitely cause slow fill problems.  Good luck.

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