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Don Mill$

Whirlpool fridge ET8BPKXKQ00 - not cooling

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Don Mill$

Hi.. the above fridge is about 16 years old.  I found it warm and with no humming or vibration on the compressor.  Inside lights working. 

I changed the capacitor a Supco arco410 and still no difference.  I checked the timer.  I immediately spotted a burn mark on the casing. The timer was fried in a spot so I assumed a replacement would fix this problem.  Replaced it and when I plugged it in there was quick muffled noise and the new timer is fried.  Same spot on the timer circuit board.  

Not sure this link will show up ,but this is the timer I bought. It matches the one that I pulled out. 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0754KX1PP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what would make the defrost timer blow?  do I have other issues in the fridge here?

 

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Vance R

There are two circuits involve with defrost timer. One the defrost circuit - heater , bi-metal and wiring inside cabinet. Other circuit is for compressor, thermostat and wiring in the cabinet.  Some where you have short circuit. Odds on bet would be compressor. If you have a meter that does resistance. Use the meter to check resistance of compressor.  The pins on side of compressor form at triangle, some have the point up, some have it down. Measure from "point" pin to other pins  one at a time, range from 2 to 8 ohms is ok. Measure from each pin to compressor case, all read infinity or OL. That should get your started.

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Don Mill$

Thank you, for your response Vance.  I'll check the resistance on the compressor.  I'm confused about the second last statement though.  "Measure from each pin to compressor case, all read infinity or OL".  by compressor case you mean the metal shell?  Also infinity or OL.. could that be 1 as well?

Thank you.

 

 

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tech7

That's what he means.

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Don Mill$

Ok.  Vance and Tech 7. 

The compressor points all provided readings, and when the points are connected to the casing we have readings of 1. 

What should I test next? 

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Don Mill$

Ok further to this.. if I test resistance between any one of the points and the ground wire, there is a reading.  According to an appliance guy that came by , that alone indicates that compressor is grounded and therefore fried.  

 

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tech7

Yes the compressor would be defective.

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Don Mill$

Ok Tech 7.  Thanks for comfirming the  advice from the appliance tech.

Earlier I had asked about testing the points against the casing.  Any point in doing that test or is the testing against the ground the next step to determine the compressor functionality? 

 

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MrApplianceMatt
1 hour ago, Don Mill$ said:

Ok Tech 7.  Thanks for comfirming the  advice from the appliance tech.

Earlier I had asked about testing the points against the casing.  Any point in doing that test or is the testing against the ground the next step to determine the compressor functionality? 

 

Testing the continuity of the compressor pins to the case indicate whether the urethane coating on the compressor windings is shot and leaking power to ground by way of the case.

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Don Mill$

I see, so that being the case, testing to ground wire is a third test and its result in continuity means the compressor is shot.  Right? 

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MrApplianceMatt
Posted (edited)

See if this helps... pin positions may vary, but you get the gist. And yes, if you're getting a reading from any of the pins to a ground then the compressor is toast.

Compressor Testing.jpg

Edited by MrApplianceMatt
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Don Mill$

One more question. The experienced appliance guy said the 3 n 1 arco410 was likely the culprit in grounding out the compressor.  I dont know who put that in, but I understand now that it's not original.  Any truth to the 3n 1 shorting out the compressor? 

 

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Vance R

my view on 3 in 1 are they are a bandaid to keep weak starting compressors running for awhile.  Some versions do not have provision for run capacitor and can shorten life of healthy compressor. They can also burn out traces on printed circuit board due to increased start amps.

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Don Mill$

Ok. Thanks to you all.  

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