Whirlpool icemaker 628135

[Nicky]

2 year old whirlpool refrigerator.  Workers put a couple beers in ice bucket. They burst.  Don’t think that had anything to do with failure but arm could have been forced because it never felt right. Ticker shows getting 110 volts to incoming harness. . Not sure on neutral.  No jumper testing works calling for motor function or water fill but when I put 110 volts directly to motor it works. Door water is fine.  Didn’t bother checking inlet valve since no jumping functions work. Anything to check before I buy new icemaker? Thank you. 

[16345Ed]

Door switch working? Light goes on and off?

[16345Ed]

But... really should have refrigerator’s model number. 

[Nicky]

Ya, door switch working. Fridge model is WRS322FDAM04.  Thx

[Vance R]

Remove the cover on the end of ice maker. Look closely at the module, there will be several letters and holes. N is for neutral, L is for line. Put your probe into the respective holes to measure for 120 vac. May have to push on door switch to get voltage.  To get ice maker to cycle you jump T to H with a jumper. Don't use bare a wire 120 vac because is present, make sure to use an insulated jumper

[Nicky]

That’s the first thing I did. If you read my post I say no test functions are working with jumpers. I didn't push door switch because everything I’ve ever watched doesn’t mention this and I know my ticker says there was voltage at ice maker at incoming harness.  Thanks

[Vance R]

On 9/19/2019 at 6:01 PM, Nicky said:

Not sure on neutral

Yup did read your post. Using a volt meter to check complete circuit would be better. Not sure what a ticker is. Presume it was non contact voltage tester. They only let know if voltage is present. So if you have 120 vac using a voltmeter with leads between L and N. This would verify the power circuit and ice maker would the likely failed component.

[Nicky]

Ok thanks so much.  Will do when I go back.  Will have an extra unit with me anticipating changout.  

[Nicky]

So I had the supposed bad ice maker with me and bench tested it hooking power up with alligator clips at harness. It not only had power At test points but it Cycled, heater came on and when I called for water I got 110 volts leaving the unit through brown wire.  When connected in freezer everything is dead, but of course it’s back on its original wiring harness. Problem was, with my voltage sensor I checked voltage before the thermal fuse and not after. so thermal fuse  is blown. Not sure how two beer cans left in ice bucket could have caused this.  Do I just get a new harness and assume the heater staying on blew this fuse and was a one time thing or doI get a whole new ice maker? Or do I just get a new plug in and replace the electrics? I have a feeling a new harness would solve it and it was an anomaly but would love your advice. Thanks 

[Vance R]

The thermal fuse blew because the mold got too hot. Possible the beer spraying got things wet and caused bi-metal thermostat to stay on too long.  Next depends on how much work you would like to do. Replacing the ice maker with harness would be more of a sure fix. Trying just the harness you may find out the bi-metal is sticking and cause the new fuse to open. I keep a few spare parts from previous kits so replacing the harness would be lower cost. 

[Nicky]

Bypassed harness and ice maker still wasn’t functioning right so replaced and it works fine.