Gas Oven Mystery JGRP17WEP2WG

[CSPL]

We have an older (early-to-mid 90s) in-wall GE gas oven. For as long as we have owned it it has occasionally had issues with "woofing"--small explosions that make the front door move. This happens not just at the start but at various points during a bake as well. Historically it has also tended to fill the house with a humid combustion smell during baking (not a strong natural gas smell per se). The igniter has been replaced several times over the years. Recently the oven started failing to hold its temperature during baking and started emitting a gas smell (only when running). We stopped using it and called a repairman. When I described the conditions he said it was almost certainly the igniter, even though I had just replaced it again a few months ago. He put in a new one but the problem persisted. He tested the amp draw on the new one that he put in and it was around 2.5. Only briefly got up to 2.6 and hovered around 2.46 for a bit as well. He said that's high enough, so it must be that we need a new valve. He also pointed to the fact that the bake burner was putting out small blue flames as evidence that the valve was bad. I told him I would evaluate whether to have the valve replaced versus just buying a new one.

1. Is that amp draw high enough? I see some people online saying an igniter needs to draw a minium of 3 amps, but they're not specifically talking about this igniter (the circular one that goes with many GE ovens). 

2. If that amp draw is too low, is it possible something else could be causing a brand new igniter not to draw enough current?

3.  Is the bad valve theory consistent with these symptoms?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[Vance R]

Usually round style ignitors draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps. Yours being a round style is at the bottom end of it's range. If the broil burner works ok. If your comfortable you can swap parts and/or electrical connection to find your issue. If the broil doesn't work you'll need to check for something common to both circuits. Start with line voltage both unloaded and loaded. 

[CSPL]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the broiler seems to work fine. Maybe I'll swap the igniters and see how it goes. Unfortunately I don't own a clamp meter to test the amp draw on that one, but I guess if the bake function works with that igniter it might be an indicator that both of the newer igniters were bad?

[Vance R]

Basic to your question is yes. You could put new ignitor in broil spot to test. If the bake still has problems it means the circuit has picked up some extra resistance. Could be connectors, wires, gas valve or control board.

[Quick]

@CSPL I just wanted to share with you the amperage required to open that valve is stamped right on the valve.  You say for just a bit it got to 2.6? Well, look on the valve and see if 2.6 will open it. Thing I wanted to share with you is that whoof. I'd be looking to replace that burner.  Inspect it for rust.

 

[CSPL]

Thanks for the replies. I will look at the valve to see what amp draw it requires. The repairman did look at the burner, although he was so committed to the idea that it must be the igniter that I don't think he gave it more than a glance.

[CSPL]

I got a bit more information last night. Apparently either my wife was explaining it differently in the past or I wasn't listening well. Anyway, here's exactly what I observed last night. I took the burner out and cleaned it. There was a tiny bit of rust on a few of the openings. I put it back in and it lit fine. Nice robust looking flame. I fully reassebled, relit, and let it heat up to 375. All was well. After the burner switched off the digital readout stayed at 375 for a long time. I kept opening the door to let it cool to see if it would reignite well.  It just stayed at 375. My wife said, "See, this is what it does. It is losing temperature but the readout doesn't change until you up the temp again." So I upped the temp to 400. It relit fine (no woof), but then the digital readout immediately dropped down to 250 and started climbing again.

Does this suggest a temperature sensor malfunction? A control board issue?

At this point I'm trying to decide whether just to replace it vs. have it fixed (I can't believe how much these 24-inch in-wall ovens cost new! ).

Thanks for whatever help you can give.

[Quick]

46 minutes ago, CSPL said:

Thanks for whatever help you can give.

Over my head. I've never heard of such.

Does it bake?

Sounds like it's working to me and more he said she said to be honest.

[Vance R]

Get a oven thermometer to test the temp. Run it for 30 minutes to track highs and lows. Lets us know what happens.

[David Jero]

If this was my oven. I would replace the oven igniter and oven sensor. The parts are cheap enough.   There is also a chance the control is bad.  Like you said these ovens are expensive. What is a few bucks in these parts that both go bad in time anyway?  Oven igniters wear out. I replace one yesterday for the exact problem. Every once in a while woof and eventually the igniter glowed but couldn't pull enough amps to open the safety valve.  Oven sensors go bad after time too. It is basically your thermostat. 

Since you said this unit is old. Is the oven control even available for this? 

[CSPL]

My temperature sensor appears to be connected by wire nuts. I can just barely get the wire nuts out through the hole in the back of the oven, but then all the slack in the wire behind is gone. I guess I would need to snip the wires coming off the sensor and use a second set of wire nuts to put the new one in.

If I sick my multimeter probes into the wire nuts I get a reading of 1.059 on the 2k setting, for whatever that's worth.

Thinking maybe I'll order a new sensor and give it a try like you say. I'll pick up an oven thermometer from the store this weekend as well.

I appreciate your replies.

[Vance R]

Was there a K in your reading? Around 1.1K or 1100 ohm is what they read at room temp. If your going to replace sensor just undo the wire nuts. Do one wire at a time so the wire does slide back through the hole!

[CSPL]

This week I ordered a new temperature sensor and some ceramic wire nuts. Trying to replace it today. Unfortunately the ceramic wire nuts, although "small" are too big to get a proper bite on the two wires. The wires coming out of the back of the oven are very short and I can barely get a grip on it.

Question: The sensor was connected with insulated crimp sleeves, not wire nuts, when I pulled it out. Here's a picture of one (https://imgur.com/yXYllat). I found more of these at Lowe's just now. Package says they're rated for 300V and 221 degrees F max. I'm guessing it's safe to use these since they were already there. I would push them back behind the insulation as much as possible. On the other hand, the previous owner of this house did a lot of odd things, so if he possibly used these, I don't want to assume it's safe.

Any thoughts?

[Vance R]

Those look like bell connectors. Not sure about temp rating being enough.  From the picture doesn't look like the connector got overheated. Your in the gray area it may work just fine, just not sure. Sounds like who ever did previous repair cut the wires short making your repair harder. 

[CSPL]

Thanks again, Vance. I found smaller ceramic wire nuts on Amazon and ordered them instead. I'd just as soon wait a couple more days than use something that maybe shouldn't be used.

[CSPL]

Grrr. The new pack of smaller wire nuts came, but they're still too big. It's these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYJGBJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are still bigger than the ones that come with a replacement igniter. I can get a little better bite on the two wires, but I don't think it's adequate. Does anyone know where I can find smaller ones like what come with a new igniter?

I'm half tempted to solder and then tape up a connection to the wire harness that came with the new sensor. Then I'd be able to pull out the longer wire of the harness and disconnect it more easily if I ever need to replace the sensor again.

[David Jero]

7 minutes ago, CSPL said:

I'm half tempted to solder and then tape up a connection to the wire harness that came with the new sensor. Then I'd be able to pull out the longer wire of the harness and disconnect it more easily if I ever need to replace the sensor again.

Do that and use shrink tubing. 

[Adirondack Bob]

1 hour ago, CSPL said:

Grrr. The new pack of smaller wire nuts came, but they're still too big.

Yeah, I've had to fold the sensor wires over a couple times to make the ceramic wire nuts bite- with limited wire length not sure if this helps you though-

[CSPL]

I finally got the new temperature sensor installed this morning and I'm cautiously optimistic that that has fixed it. I'm on my third bake attempt and each time it is maintaining temperature. No woofing.

Thanks again to all who offered input. This is a really helpful site. I've hit the thanks button as much as I can. Let me know if there is another way to contribute to the "kendo points" I see listed under people's names.