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    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Maytag gemini mgr6775bds trouble shooting mode


bob33

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I've a Maytag gemini mgr6775bds that will not light the upper oven despite a new igniter. 

How do I enter the trouble shooting mode to stop chasing putting in unneeded new parts? I can't find instructions on how to enter it for the trouble codes.

TIA!

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Is the igniter glowing? Do you have voltage to the igniter? Typically these units will not store error codes but will only display them when the condition for an error is present. You need to verify voltage to the igniter and what kind of amperage the igniter is pulling. If you have voltage to the igniter and it's glowing and you can measure the amperage and that amperage is sufficient to open the safety valve (3.2-3.7 amps typically) then you have a fuel delivery problem.

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Trace the wires from each igniter back and look for a double line break relay. I've seen these go bad before in this way in their electric counterparts.

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