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FunWithPaul

Kitchenaid Electric range oven elements fault

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FunWithPaul

Hi guys,

I have a Kitchenaid electric free standing range (kerc607hbs8) that is pretty old...

Everything works, except for all of the oven elements.

The way this oven works is that the RED line current powers one side of all of the oven heating elements when any oven function is selected (via a single relay),

and the other side of each element is connected to the BLACK line current through the power relays on the Power Control Board (when they are activated by the control).

Mine doesn't. (the Black line current is never connected to the elements)

Reading online, a common fault is the oven thermostat, should be about 1100 ohms at room temp. It is.

 

Some ovens have a TOD (thermal overheat device) on the back wall of the oven. This one doesn't.

It has two thermal switches under the Control Panel (one turns the cooling fan ON at 165f, and one turns the Black line current to P-6  OFF at 205f.

Both of those are working correctly (at room temp)

 

I purchased a (supposedly) working Power Control Board #WP9782437, installed it, but there is no change.

From what I can tell the P-8, P-3, P-4, P-2 connections on the Power Board are not being connected to the Black line voltage...

I have a nice picture of the schematic, but can't upload it.

You can see it here

https://imgur.com/VBKLnmC  

"I think" the problem is the supply to what is in the blue box (the pins listed above)

If you look at the pic The Red, and Black (added color) lines all test correct, and the green circle is for the temp thermostat.

Does anyone have a service manual for this Range?

Any ideas? besides throwing (EXPENSIVE!) parts at it?

 

Thanks,

Paul

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16345Ed

Always start with basics. How’s the wall outlet test? How’s power at terminal block, etc...

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reliableappguy

I would definitely verify power at the terminal block and to the control board.  If you already replaced the control, it appears from the schematic that either the switch is open in the double line break, the 20 amp fuse is open or there is insufficient voltage to the unit which could be verified at the terminal block.

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FunWithPaul
On 2/14/2020 at 6:22 AM, 16345Ed said:

Always start with basics. How’s the wall outlet test? How’s power at terminal block, etc...

All good.

I have checked the line current at the board, the black 120v into the board is fine,  as is the red 120v at the elements (when bake is ON )

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FunWithPaul
5 hours ago, reliableappguy said:

I would definitely verify power at the terminal block and to the control board.  If you already replaced the control, it appears from the schematic that either the switch is open in the double line break, the 20 amp fuse is open or there is insufficient voltage to the unit which could be verified at the terminal block.

My first guess was the relay contact points (I could hear it clicking, but no heat). Nope... when bake is selected, the relay clicks and red line voltage IS connected to one side of the elements at 120v.  The black line voltage TO the powerboard is good,  but (I am assuming) the relays on that board are not closing (no signal?) None of them do. But the DLB relay gets IT's signal from the Power Board...  so the Power Board IS activating the DLB...

There are no error messages either. The oven thinks everything is fine.

I am down to the Control Board or the white connection wires (because the control board controls the power board, which controls the elements)

 

 

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ECtoFix
3 hours ago, FunWithPaul said:

My first guess was the relay contact points (I could hear it clicking, but no heat).

Guessing isn't going to effectively troubleshoot the problem.

Are you testing the circuit using a VOM?

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Vance R

First thing we need to do is stop talking about and checking for 120 vac.  Need to verify L1 to L2 is 220 vac at the terminal block with a meter. Next step depends on what is easiest to measure. Ideally you would measure voltage at the element to see if you get 220 vac. If that is difficult put one meter lead on L2 at the terminal block, turn on the bake and measure terminal P2 on the board with the other lead. If you get 0 vac the problem is in the board. If you get 220 vac, try the DBL relay next because it is probably close to the main board. The drawing doesn't indicate terminal numbers or colors of wires of the relay. Measure both terminals still tagged to L2. If you get 0 vac on one terminal and 220 vac on the other terminal - Its a relay problem or control voltage problem. If you get 0 vac on both terminals move on the the fuse, same pattern - your looking for a change of 0 vac to 220 vac. Whatever is in between the change of voltage is your problem area.

BTW - Thanks for the wiring diagram. Wonderful job of circuit tracing 👍. It makes troubleshooting way easier.

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