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FPSteve1

Fisher & Paykel GWL10 washer not draining

33 posts in this topic

There are multiple posts on the diverter/pump/mc problems with F&P GWL10-GWL15 machines that appear to have the same basic operational functions.  No one, however, has offered to help with a diagnostic approach so that you don't have to buy all parts or worse, risk burning up a MC because the wrong part was changed.  If the machine is not draining, isn't there a way to know which part is malfunctioning? 

For anyone who was smart enough to find this site and these posts before you kept plugging it in until you no longer had power to the unit, don't keep trying to "reset" after waiting 60 seconds.  Search the forum and read everything you can about it; write down the codes (if any you get) and what the machine is doing (e.g. is water pumping during the agitation?).  Resist the temptation to just "try something" or you will end up in worse shape.   

My washer is sitting in the garage; would like to fix and give to a charity but I can't afford to try to fix it any more.  Better to just send it to the dump and give the money that I would have spent on parts (and the matching dryer) to charity.   

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

[user=23858]Kschlichting[/user]

Search the forum and you will find a thread with a detailed description of the diverter valve.  The problem is how to figure out whether it is working or not.  I didn't get to have a chance to try this but you might.  The connections on the diverter look like the end of a two prong extension cord.  Make a 24 inch female wire connector that will connect to one of the diverter male plugs and a 24 inch male connector that plugs in the female connector that would ordinarily attach to that prong of the diverter.  Leave the other wire connected to the other prong.  Right the machine and run the two long wire leads under the back so you can access them.  Place a 12V test light in the circuit and start the machine.  If the machine is trying to pump water but the test light does not operate at the point in the cycle, then that may mean  the MC is bad and is not sending power to operate the diverter arm.  If the test light operates, then it would seem that the diverter is bad.  I don't know if this will work but it seems liks it should.  If anyone has a better idea (e.g. ohm measurement), then please speak up.  You just may help save a marriage.....

Also, is it true that if the water is circulating into the basket but just won't pump out, then you know that the pump adjacent to the diverter is working?  Is is possible that a MC malfunction can cause the pump to work on some parts of the cycle but not others?   

 

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AH! It was only the diverter pump! I was lucky. Now I can send back the other part and get a refund from the company. My marriage is saved.

Problem:  I could not figure out why our clothes smelled bad. Prior to the fix I added a drain trap to the washer drain thinking the odors were from sewer gas. (Yes the builder did not install one)

 

I noticed that when the diverter valve is broken that not all of the water is draining our and the wash water is partially contaminated with old water, making the clothes smell bad. 

 

Therefore if the clothes start smelling bad the water is not fully draining from the very bottom of the tub (which you can’t see without taking the agitator out) and you may not know it until there is a complete breakdown of the diverter valve.  

 

Thanks for all the help. J

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Did you still have power to the display board before you fixed your diverter valve?

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Oh dear God in heaven and all his heavenly host!  Sick baby and the washer just STOPPED draining.  SO, please please tell me how to enter the diagnostic mode and what do the 0s and 1s mean so I can get a diagnostic code and come back. 

HELP

It is hot and I will have to drain the washer by siphoning the water out and the baby is screaming and I just paid 5 bucks and got this message:

Currently subscribed - expires on Sat May 9th, 1970

So, I was apparently ripped off for 37 years of my 99 year subscription.  Or something.

HELP!

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Hello, I was wondering if you could help. The washer will not drain. I have a Fisher & Paykel Washer Model GWL10 Ecosmart. I am getting an error code #37 Pump Block Error. I have tried unplugging the machine for one minute and attempted to restart the load but when the load gets to the rinse cycle the water just circulates and will not empty into the hose. That is when I get the error code. Additionally, I have tried the Drain Pump Test by pressing there REGULAR button to drain the tub but the water just circulates in the tub. Does this mean that the drain pump is not working or does it mean that the diverter valve is not working. I have also read postings that it could be a motor controll module. Where do I start? What is wrong with the operations? How can I fix this washer?:shock: Sincerely, Kurt

This is EXACTLY what happens to me but I do not get an error code cause I don't know what to do or how to read them. 

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Oh thank Gott in Himmel.  I think it is draining, but very slowly in the drain pump test mode.  Well, at least if I have to move it out from the wall  it will have less water in it.

OK, now I am going to try to clean up that document so that I can read it when I print it out. 

You guys are helping so much and you aren't even on!

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Big fat,

Please feel free to start a new topic, in fact, I'm begging you. Please give relevant details so we can help you more.

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