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  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      5  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Fridgidaire laundry center FLXE52RBS9


Brian B

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Well this is a head scratcher!

The washer would keep spinning even if the door is open, and also washes with the door open. Naturally, I examined the lid switch and it was broken in places. I replaced it with a new one that has 4 terminals on it, the schematic shows 2 tan and black wires along with a white  and white red wire. The two black and tan wires are not there, whats going on here? The lid switch locked during spin the first time but doesn't anymore., and it still washes with the door open. Do you think the motor and switch are bad, or are those two wires cut and would those two wires make a difference? Oh, and also I get good continuity on the sw when closed and open when open. Help would be greatly appreciated!

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On 6/11/2021 at 12:17 PM, Brian B said:

I replaced it with a new one that has 4 terminals on it

An updated version of the lid lock switch has an additional Check Switch attached to it. But it's not being utilized by this model washer.

All reliable places don't have this lid switch in stock. So if you bought it on Amazon/eBay, it could be poor quality and burn out.

On 6/11/2021 at 8:05 PM, Brian B said:

What would be causing the new switch to burn out?

Why do you think it's burned? Is it not actuating?

Maybe it's working, but is slightly bent and not catching the lid properly. Maybe the lid itself is bent, or the whole body is skewed?

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When I initially ran the washer after I put the new lid sw in,, it worked but now it doesn't when I ohmed it out it tested good,, I also observed that the actuarater is not even moving,, so Im hopefull that another switch would work. What would be causing the new switch to burn out?

 

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Thanks everyone for the inputWhen I initially ran the washer after I put the new lid sw in,, it worked but now it doesn't when I ohmed it out it tested good,, I also observed that the actuarater is not even moving,, so Im hopefull that another switch would work. What would be causing the new switch to burn out?

 

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I thought there are two parts to this lock? One is the lid switch, and then the actual lock, which is like a wax motor?

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