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dylanl99

Kenmore s700 110.22712100

21 posts in this topic

Hello all,

Newbie here, Washer fills up, Will not agitate or spin, the water drains out without spinning,  also the motor is making a very loud ticking type sound and gets louder as i change the spin speed. does this sound like a major repair issue ? should i bother?, its abnout 4 years old:yikes:.

 

 any suggestions?

Thanks 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

grasshopper_2.gifOne sure sign that the drive coupler is bad is if the washer will fill with water and pump out ok, but it just won't agitate or spin. Replacing the motor coupler is the most common repair task on this washer and is a pretty easy job, even for appliance repair virgins. How easy? About two mugs on the SUDS-0-meter. How can you tell if your washer is the direct-drive or belt-drive model? Like this.

We begin this repair odyssey by removing the washer's cabinet. The secret to removing the cabinet is revealed in this post. Read it now, go ahead, I'll wait...

Finished already? See, you're a whiz at this!

00003035.jpgOk, so with the machine stripped naked like a fatted calf in a butcher shop, we focus our keen Vulcan squinties on the pump, down in front, and remove the two clips holding it on to the motor. Then pull off the pump, unclip the wiring harness from the motor and the two wires from the capacitor (if present). Then remove the two motor clips (top and bottom) to remove the motor. Wallah! The motor, by the way, is double-shafted (for those of you in Palm Beach, "double-shafted" means it has two shafts). The coupler is the three-part piece you see between the motor and the transmission (the other side of the motor). Your old coupler probably looks something like this, or even worse. Here's what a new coupler looks like.

Incidentally, for an excellent and detailed interactive diagram of the guts of this washer, see this page. You'll be glad you did.

When you're all done and you have the guts all tucked back in place, replacing the cabinet is just as easy...if you know the trick. And remember to reconnect the lid switch harness or you'll be scratching your head wondering why the washer won't spin.

Ok, that's about all the rocket science involved with this little gig. All that's left for you to do is order the coupler, maybe even a genuine repair manual for more adventurous repairs in the future. And, of course, your love offerings to the United Samurai Beer Fund would be received most joyously.

[align=center]To learn more about your washer or to order parts, click here.[/align]

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Thank you for all the info and advise, i am going to give it a try tonight. i will keepyou posted,

 

Dave

:dude:

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Samurai,

 You very honorable, the motor flange was cracked in half, the coupling and transmission flange were in fine shape, I live in Mass, can you recommend somewhere to buy replacement, i know of a Sears replacement center/ fix it in Hanover Mass. I can hardly believe this little piece was the problem. Do you know what might have caused this for prevention purposes? (my wife tend to studff the machine ):D?hmmm 

I am most appreciative and i will be contributing to the samurai beer fund.

 

Dave

    

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Overloading the machine was what broke the coupler, or the transmission is hanging.  You will need to buy all 3 pieces as a kit and can order it from **** here **** 

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How can i tell if the transmisson is hanging?, i am picking up replacment  motor coupler tonight, i would not want to have it break again for some other reason.

 

 Thanks   

 

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Your coupler will keep breaking in short order.  Just run the machine and it if starts eating couplers, you might suspect the tranny is going south.  But I would imagine your overloading of the washer is what sent your coupler to its demise...  ;)

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Stupid ? part 1

 should i force the coupler on snugly with a little light tapping on the transmission side or put it all 3 peices together an put in lightly ??

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Grasshoper is a "success" thanks a million pegi & samurai:shock:

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Welcome.....:cool:

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O Great Samurai,

This forum has been so helpful in isolating the cause of the illness of my trusty 80 Series Kenmore 110.model.  Clicking means coupler.  I also appreciate the links to diagrams and pictures to aid me on my journey through the vast wasteland that is my washer's anatomy. 

Parts and tools in hand (gloves to protect the acrylic nails), I began the task appointed me.  The disassembly part was logical and straightforward, but I ran into trouble when replacing old part with the new redesigned model.  It doesn't seem to fit on the shaft.  I used one of my darling husband's 5 lb. free weights to :beating:tap one side onto the motor, but the wimpy little thing cracked. :shock:

I am off to the parts store to purchase another coupler set.  They tell me that this part should fit, but my washer doesn't agree.  Should I dremel the center of the assembly parts, or try to harness the power of the Force? (I now have a spare in case I break another one) 

You, O Great One, have the knowledge and experience to aid me on my quest to clean clothes and harmony.  (Between the PMS:X and the freeweights, the motor should be in a constant state of fear.)  How do I make the cursed thing fit?  Please Help.

California Girl

 

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There is only one coupler kit to fit the direct drive washers, you will need something like a 5/8 socket to put against the coupler and tap it gently with a hammer to install both plastic parts,  these will have a very tight fit..  DO NOT make the opening bigger, it will only crack after the washer has ran for awhile.  Gentle tapping and straight is the answer.  I would guess you were not getting this on straight and hit it with too much force.  You cannot hit the prongs, just tap the socket around the center area around the motor and transmission shafts.

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Master Pegi

Thank you for your prompt response.  I put a few drops of three-in-one oil in the center of each piece, but that didn't seem to help.  I did tap on the prongs, my bad.  I will try your method after I get home from work tonight.  They  just seem way more than snug.  (Sorta like my size 6 jeans, now that I wear size 12.  It's just not happening.):shock:

 

Again, many thanks and I will post when task is completed.

 

California Girl

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Thanks for the reply, the new teardrop couplers do fit tighter than the original  round prong ones..straight and gentle, but do be sure to get them both all of the way onto the shafts...;)

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Humpty dumpty is back together. Thanks to my darling husband for being patient and installing coupler #2.  Bottom of machine is not quite together and the whole thing may be off-kilter (less than perfectly level).  Will either of these things affect my ability to get caught up on my vast quantities of laundry? It's 100 degree weather out here in sunny California, and my garage is considerably hotter. I don't care if the thing looks goofy, as long as it works.  I can fix the cosmetic details after the weather cools.  Neither of us relish the idea of dismantling the console and removing the brass clips in this heat.  Spin cycle is back in action thanks to expert advice from this website. 

Thank you Pegi for the quick replies and the right guidance.

I never thought I would be glad to be able to do my own laundry again.:bananadance:

California Girl

 

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Do not believe the case not being quite on will cause problems, but make sure it is level.  Thank you and you are very welcome!!  :P

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Your help and technical assistance is greatly appreciated. Today, the washing machine sounded like a wounded bird chirping for help. After calling several repair facilities, I received quotes from $150 -$180. After purchasing the coupler for about $5.00 at the local parts store, I installed it in about 15 min.

Thanks Again!!

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Thanks for the advice, I came accross the same problems when placing the coupling onto the motor I tried to force it on and snapped it into two.  Then I read the post about gently tapping it on using a 5/8 socket, I 'll tried it again tomorrow after the part store opens.  As the saying goes "Haste makes waste"

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Thanks for reading the forum threads and letting us know this helps others with their repairs, makes us feel good about posting help, don't ya know.....:cool:

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We seemed to have the same problem with that coupler. Replaced it. moved the washer back in place. plugged it in and tested. It spun. loaded with clothes and let her go. came back down stairs only to find that it was over flowing with water and the control button had not moved. By hand I can get it to empty and begin spin but not aggetate. What have we done wrong?

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Check the clear plastic fill level hose that goes from the switch in the console to the bubble on the side of the tub, you might have pulled this loose without knowing it, if so the washer would overflow and would never agitate.

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