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Chris-man

Empire Gas Fireplace

9 posts in this topic

Dear Repair Gurus,    I hace 2 of the above 24 inch gas (propane) log sets--model: VFYR-24RWO-1

I've been anually cleaning the pilot gas jet on a part called "Pilot ODS Assembly" ever since I paid the gas company about $300 to troubleshoot and ultimately replace this part that only needed cleaning. But I realize that eventually the metal will fatigue from heat and need to be replaced. Can you help me find parts for this Appliance?  I don't see any Empire products in the RepairClinic.com lineup.   Thanks.  

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Dear HVACDRD,   Thanks for the Empire web addresses. I have e-mail inquiries to them both.    As for the Hot W/H I'd still like your opinion as to whether it is valuable for me to try to access the Anode. The aparrent fitting is on the tank top and is 1 to 1 1/4 inch hex nut and may take major leverage to break free. And what do I look for?  Also, you reference 3/4 '' NPT. what does this mean?   Thanks.

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3/4" NPT(National Pipe Thread) same thread as any 3/4" pipe fitting.

What to look for? If all that is left is a 1/8" wire connected to the plug then the anode has completely degraded. The rod is typically 3/4" diameter or so and 3-4 ft long. Usually when I have pulled one it looks pretty ugly. Pitted and a bit slimey. If you can break it loose you shouldn't have any problem inspecting it and reinstalling it if/until you need a new one.

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Good, HVACDRD,  Got it.  Now, last items:  Assuming I can get at the Anode and it is thin, pitted and or dissolved--where do I get this 3/4 '' rod what shall it be,  Al  or  Mg, and how will it attach to the Nut so it hangs in the water--oh, and how deep  or how close to the tank bottom should it rest. And for the record, there is no electric hook up to my Anode.  Thanks for you patience.

PS  I got prompt results from those Empire (Gas F/P) web addresses you sent. The 'Pilot' lists for ~$23---my gas co. charged me like 80 bucks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The new anode rod is attatched to the 3/4" fitting when you buy it. The distance to the bottom doesn't matter. As for Al or Mg - if you didn't have an odor issue with Mg before I would stick with that. The Al is less aggressive and used when the system has a water softner. Something about the water chemistry beyond my know-how.

You should be able to get one at a plumbing supplier or maybe even at Lowe's / Home Depot. There is only two types I know of. The one that installs in the top like yours and one that is connected to the hot water outlet fitting. If you can't find one let me know and I'll do some checking.

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Dear Hvacdrd,   It's me about the Anode again.  I was able to borrow a  1 + 1/16th socket and breaker bar but as suspected, both nuts ( I also have a John Wood W/H) are solidly frozen.  I have a 24'' pipe for leverage but I haven't  put MAJOR force to bear as yet. I'd hoped they would be easier. My consideration is weighing in with the benefits of replacing 12-15 year old Anodes versus liklihood of doing some other damage to the appliance.  Will the tank gain additional years of service for having a new Anode? Should the nuts require a 2-3 foot breaker bar to free up? Longer? more leverage? Help!   Thanks 

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I think I would leave well enough alone. If it didn't break loose using that much force then it is there for good. I'd hate to see you do any damage to the tank just trying to inspect an anode. I have had customers request removing the anode altogether upon initial installation and have not had premature failures of the tanks.

Also I think the oil water heaters are built using thicker material due to the heat chamber requirements of oil burners.

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Dear HVACDRD,   Thanks for following thru on the Anode project.  I've closed up the tanks and will be content to flush them out as my periodic service.  Domo. 

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