Whirlpool Washer Model LSR7233EQ0 repeated tub seal failure

[willie2]

Whirlpool model LSR7233EQ had a leak so I replaced the tub seal.  It was leak free for a few days and is now leaking again.  I need to put it up on blocks and run it to be sure it is leaking from the same place as before.  Assuming it is, what would cause the seal to fail in such a short time?

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Is this the tub seal part you replaced?

If so, that seal very rarely leaks - most likely you have a leak down past the agitator shaft or basket drive shaft seals and the water is coming down thru the shaft areas and leaking onto the top of the transmission and into the clutch.

That, or you may have a cracked outer plastic tub - did you check it when you had it out to replace the center post seal?

[willie2]

Yes - that is the seal I replaced.  There were not any cracks in the outer plastic tub when I had it apart.

One clue I did notice when I had it apart was the basket drive block which is cast aluminum was very corroded and eaten away.  Are the seals you're describing #23 and #14?

[Vance R]

The center post can get corroded and develop small holes or crack. 

[dwschnelli]

The agitator is supposed to create an air dome above the centerpost, keeping  water away from the top of centerpost, seals and bearings. If that air dome is leaking air, water can get to the centerpost and run down to the baseplate, looking like a tub seal failure.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

19 hours ago, willie2 said:

Are the seals you're describing #23 and #14?

Yes, but if those seals are leaking there's a good chance the bearings/bushings are bad depending on how long it's been leaking - getting the seals and/or bearings out without the special tool isn't a job that's worth trying to do.

If the centerpost seals and/or bearings are bad it's best to replace the complete tub support, part#4.  Not the cheapest way but it's the easiest and most complete way.

[willie2]

Thank you to everyone who has responded!

Willie, it started leaking a couple of weeks ago and we stopped using it until I replaced the tub seal.  What are the tools needed to change out the seals?  I have seal pullers, etc. for automotive use and don't mind buying additional tools depending on the price - this would be a one time use most likely.

Also, are there really two upper seals stacked as shown on the diagram?    I saw a video where a guy replaced both the upper and lower seals but even though it looked exactly like my washer, it was most likely different.

[evaappliance]

5 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

If the centerpost seals and/or bearings are bad it's best to replace the complete tub support, part#4. 

you will not regret taking budgets advise on this part

[willie2]

6 hours ago, evaappliance said:

you will not regret taking budgets advise on this part

The whole assembly is between $200 and $250 depending on the source.  The washer has what appears to be timer issues - it stops mid cycle and the control needs to be advanced a few clicks.  I've sprayed the contacts with contact cleaner but that doesn't last long.  No way I'm putting a timer and a tub assembly into this old unit.  I am concerned about the reliability of the new units - seems none of them go five years without issues.

[evaappliance]

3 hours ago, willie2 said:

The washer has what appears to be timer issues

Well , that does change things 

[willie2]

It looks like the water is coming from the shaft seal area.  I ran the washer with the cabinet removed and took a couple of pictures but they're too large from a file size to post.  No water to the floor but just three drips on the clutch.  When I am not watching it is when it really leaks...LOL.

What I thought was a timer issue is actually the lid switch.  The washer only acts up/stops during the parts of the cycle that require the lid to be closed.  When I leaned on the top near the switch, the cycle resumed.  I inspected the lid switch and it is cracked.

I found a video on replacing the seals: skip to the 11:00 mark for the seal replacement.  I'd use a different installation method for the seals though.  It's a Kenmore washer but Whirlpool made a lot of washers for Sears and the components look exactly the same as my Whirlpool unit.

 

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

If you change out only the seals and the bearings are slightly wallowed out it's still going to leak.

And yes, alot of these have two seals stacked on top of each other - The time and labor involved in trying to change them out without the tools - forget it.

Maybe you could accomplish it with just your time expenditure and making something you have work.

If everything else is in good condition, it worth putting the money into this washer - It will probably last still longer then any of the newer garbage they are making now days.   Even if it where also the timer or the timer goes out in the future - this is a much more solid washer and worth the money to repair then buying any of the newer garbage out there.

[willie2]

I got the unit disassembled again - the upper bearings in the drive basket tube have a lot of slop in them (about .040") and the lower shaft seal is totally shot.  The tube basket drive (that has the clutch attached on the bottom) has scoring where the bearings ride.  It is worse on the top vs. the bottom.  I don't want to change the bearings out and install new seals since the tube is scored.

I'm going to price the components from my local parts store and make a decision.  

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Purchasing the complete new support with new bearings/seals and the basket drive/brake assembly is probably going to cost close to the $300-$350 mark with taxes at a local place unless they have real good pricing.

This machine is still really worth doing this - you will still have a much better machine then you will be getting spending that money on a new one.

[willie2]

I was able to score the parts online for $219.00 and a decent used machine was the same price.  I figured with replacing the assemblies on my existing machine, I know exactly what I have vs. a used machine that might leak in a month or two.

In addition, I don't have to haul another machine home, then scrap/get rid of the old one.

[willie2]

I finally received all the parts.  Should the bearings be lubed?  I really don't want to get any petroleum products on any of the seals since they are rubber and petroleum will eat the rubber.   Possibly lube the bearings with some bearing grease, then install the seals.

[willie2]

It's been all back together for several days.  I lubed the bearings with bearing grease.  The unit performs like new - the brakes are new as well as the clutch pads.  Thanks for all the advice.