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    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
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Maytag model # mvwc6esww1. No hot water AGAIN


Handy Paul

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My Maytag Centennial top load washer did not fill with hot water when called on but Vance suggested a new temperature knob and that fixed it. (Thank you, Vance). That was 2 months ago and it worked fine until today. Now again, no hot water is coming in. I checked the hot water inlet screen and it is clean. Suggestions?

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Put the unit in diagnostic mode and check for voltage at the valve. The hot valve may have failed or the control may not be sending power. I'm also looking for some sort of temp sensor in the diagram but IDK if this unit has one that is part of another assembly like the flow meter or something.

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Re-visit the previous post for the wire diagram then check to the output of the hot water valve.

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Guys, my one weak spot is electricity and while I have a voltmeter I really don't know how to use it. Plus, the model washer I have doesn't allow for getting into diagnostic mode. Any simpler ideas I could try would be appreciated but I know I've hamstrung you with my ignorance of things electric.

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There is no diagnostic mode; this one has a timer. What you do is take the cabinet off the machine to access the wires going to the water valve. Then start a cycle; when it should be filling with hot water, there should be 120 volts AC between the 2 wires going to the hot water valve. Set your meter on AC volts and put the probes into the back of the wire connectors so they touch the metal inside there. If there is about 120volts, you need a new valve.

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Thanks, vee8power. Before I try that, an update: I had left the hot water hose supply line valve off; my wife, not knowing this, turned the machine on, on the hot setting and was getting cold water; she turned the temp control to warm and then cold and got cold water, then to hot and got nothing, but at that moment she heard a hum coming from the temperature control switch. She then turned on the hot water hose supply line valve and lo and behold got HOT WATER. Does this suggest anything?

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2 minutes ago, Handy Paul said:

Does this suggest anything?

I would have to consider that temperature switch as suspect. Did you replace the switch with an OEM part?

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Hard to remember but I think not, but I think it has a return policy.

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Yeah, if it came from Bezos's Bargains, even if it's marked as OEM it can often be counterfeit. OEM from an authorized retailer is generally better quality, but honestly, these post-Covid days quality control on even OEM parts is questionable.

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I am getting a replacement switch under warranty and will update this post when I install it. Thanks to all for the help along the journey!

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On 3/29/2023 at 8:16 PM, Handy Paul said:

Thanks, vee8power. Before I try that, an update: I had left the hot water hose supply line valve off; my wife, not knowing this, turned the machine on, on the hot setting and was getting cold water; she turned the temp control to warm and then cold and got cold water, then to hot and got nothing, but at that moment she heard a hum coming from the temperature control switch. She then turned on the hot water hose supply line valve and lo and behold got HOT WATER. Does this suggest anything?

This could be normal operation. 

According to the tech sheet, hot water is regulated to either 100° or 115° in all  cycles except bulky. In bulky cycle set on hot, the machine fills with hot water from the hot hose like you would expect. In other hot cycles though, the cold valve I used. 

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L. Ron Hoover
On 4/2/2023 at 9:18 PM, vee8power said:

This could be normal operation. 

According to the tech sheet, hot water is regulated to either 100° or 115° in all  cycles except bulky. In bulky cycle set on hot, the machine fills with hot water from the hot hose like you would expect. In other hot cycles though, the cold valve I used. 

I agree that it could be normal operation, but based on his description of the hot water running only after running cold for a while makes me wonder if the temperature sensor has wandered off of calibration.  I assume it's a thermistor.  Anybody have an ohm/temp chart for this?  It's the type that is built into the water valve, W10175893.  

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L. Ron Hoover
28 minutes ago, L. Ron Hoover said:

I agree that it could be normal operation, but based on his description of the hot water running only after running cold for a while makes me wonder if the temperature sensor has wandered off of calibration.  I assume it's a thermistor.  Anybody have an ohm/temp chart for this?  It's the type that is built into the water valve, W10175893.  

Actually I would run the machine on heavy duty (bulky) with temp set to hot first.  If the problem goes away on this cycle, I would definitely want to check that thermistor.

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