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Showing results for tags 'blog/thrust+bearing'.

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Found 29 results

  1. Main seal leaking and drum when spinning is growling. Main seal and bearing right?  Has anyone made this repair on this model? Any suggestions on what parts I should order?I did read through the existing posts on here and found someone recommended part # wh45x24614. Is that going to cover me all together for a leaking and noisy main?
  2. My Whirlpool WTW4950XW3 top loader recently had a tub seal failure.  When this happens, water goes right to (and through?) the bearing.  After replacing the seal, I have the dreaded train sound / roar. These models don't have the bearing replacement kit, the gearcase is considered non-servicable.  Net is I have to replace the gearcase.  I did read another thread about drilling rivets and replacing a 6006 bearing, but that's not in the cards at this point. My question is: how long can I run this?  I just need to get through the holidays and then I will decide on repair/replace.  What is the failure mode if I go too long with it? Thanks for your time.
  3. This has probably been ask/answered before but I cant seem to find it. I have to replace the bearing seal kit (W10435302) Seeing if anyone has a nifty trick to get out a stubborn wash plate (W10077050) that refuses to come off, don't really want to cut it out if I don't have to. Thanks.
  4. Will the bearing replacement kit work with this washer? Whirlpool Cabrio WTW8600YW0
  5. fisher paykel gwl11

    Need a service manual for gwl11. Will be changing bearings and seal. Are any special tools required ( bearing puller ) ?
  6. I made a major amateur mistake on a Frigidaire Gallery electric dryer 2 weeks ago and it cost me today. I was installing the rear bearing kit part number: Part number: WE25X10001   The tiny little stainless steel ball that goes in the rear bearing, GOES BEHIND THE PLASTIC BEARING!!!!!   I put it in front (where there really is no room at all for it when the drum mount ball bearing slides in) and eventually the ball worked to the bottom of the white plastic bearing.  This caused the small ball to dig a massive line through the large ball bearing mounted to the back of the drum as well as causing terrible screeching (even with the high temp lube).    My bad. My call back. My time.  My money lost. MAJOR BUMMER for simply not putting a small metal ball in the correct place!!! THE BACK OF THE PLASTIC BEARING....NOT THE FRONT!!!! I stand humbled.   Lesson learned. I just wanted to share this with other techs and DIY'ers.      ....Its a good thing my customers were so nice and appreciative.  I've had others not so accepting of mishaps.
  7. I have a Kitchenaid KSRT25CR side-by-side refridgerator with what sounds like a loud bad fan bearing noise coming from underneith the refridg.  Does anyone know how to get at the fan to see if it is bad, or even to replace it?  I can't find any service manuals for this refridg anywhere.
  8. Newbe to the forum, I have a frigidaire Ft Load Washer 417.39012891, replaced the belt 9 months ago and now have an issue with the bearing on the pully end of the motor.  I was able to remove the pully with a battery terminal puller.  The four bolts that hold the casting with the bearing have a unique head, an oval protrusion about 6mm long and 3mm wide and 3mm high, a specialty tool is required, probably designed to deter repair.  Has anyone successfully replaced this bearing?  How did you remove the four uniqe headed bolts?  Perhaps the Samurai stocks the bearing. Thanks in advance for responses.
  9. Guys I have a Miele Commercial Dryer Model T-6351.G  I need to replace the drum bearing. Ano«yone help with a part number and instructions on how to replace . Any help would be appreciated.
  10. Client wanted their dead Maytag repaired not replaced.   The  2 speed motor was on its last leg.   The brake While was sguelling also.   I quoted the motor job I also recommended installing a snubber ring & thrust bearing since I was going to pull the tube to quiet the brake.   I replaced the old style bearing with the new thrust bearing kit.    I never had so much trouble getting the retaining clip back on with other units I had serviced.   I used the thin washer, double checked that I left no old washer in place,   There was no room for the clip in the slot,  I filed down the clip ends to help it get started.  I ended up having to beat it on & it still did not seat correctly.  It is working & looks like it is going to hold for the duration.   Has anybody had any trouble like this?    
  11. I have a Bosch WTA4400 that is 6 years old and has just started making the most insane screaming/squealing noise during operation.  After taking the covers off and moving the drum, the sound seems to be coming from the rear drum bearing area.  Does this need to be replaced or can it be lubricated and/or serviced in some way?  I've seen conflicting advice.   Does anyone have the service manual for this dryer?  I have the exploded diagrams from the website, but am leery of taking the whole thing apart without some guide.   TIA
  12. Hi, do you have a service manual for 41747102700 kenmore washer?  I have a friend whose washer was making a really loud noise & started to leak as well.  Now it is not working at all.  They think it is the bearings. Do they sell just the bearings or do you have to replace the whole back including the bearing? Any tips or thoughts before I jump into this? Thanks.  
  13. Maytag Performa PAV2300AWW thrust bearing assembly order

    From the album Washer Repair

    If you boogar up or lose these parts, you can buy the replacement kit here:
  14. #2 - LG WM2487HRM tub bearing

    From the album LG WM2487HRM tub assembly

    How to replace the drum bearing in LG washers:  http://appliantology...nt-load-washer/
  15. This washer needs center bearing and seal. is W10435302 correct for this washer?
  16. Is that tub seal replacable? Part # please. Thanks.
  17. Cabrio Washer Tub Bearing And Seal Replacement Kit

    From the album Washer Repair

    Newly-issued bearing and tool for Whirlpool's Craprio washer. More info in this post ==> Whirlpool Cabrio / Maytag Bravo / Kenmore Oasis Washer Tub Bearing and Seal Replacement Kit
  18. I am goinig to install w10435302 bearing and seal kit next week. I have also ordered w10447783 install tool kit. Has anyone done one of these? is there a installation sheet available to preview before i get started? Any helpful hints? Thanks.
  19. I've owned a Staber washer for about 6 years. The Staber has been good for us, but I was disappointed that the rear bearing failed just short of 5 years. These were the original "add grease" bearings. Staber sent a new bearing set (this time they were sealed, no grease port) and I replaced them, but now the screeching whine has returned and I know what that means--imminent failure, and reaquantance with the clientel of our town laundromat. I like the machine for many reasons, but (from the buzz online) this bearing problem is a real problem. I don't think we're doing anything wrong--the machine is level and I'm using Staber detergent (and only 1/2 oz per load, which is 1/2 of the Staber-recommended amount). So, where to go from here? A) I could buy the Staber bearing replacement kit ($150) which includes all seals, shafts, O-rings, etc to do the job. That's the replacement I did before, and I can't see why I should expect the bearings to last longer this time. No, thanks. B ) Use the Staber bearing supports and replace the parts that really need replacing--probably the O-rings and the actual ball bearing assemblies. That will be a lot cheaper, and it offers the chance to make some improvements in bearing type, O-ring material, etc. And more tinkering. So, some questions: 1) Any idea what is causing these failures? It seems to be a recuring problem, and not just with my machine I'm thankful that the bearings are replaceable at all (hey, it's a Staber), but why do they fail? From those who have serviced these machines, what's up? Material failure of bearing seals? Of O-rings? Design flaws in the way the bearing is protected from water intrusion? 2) How can I make a more permanent fix? I now have 2 sets of Staber bearing support assemblies (their part number 817239). One set has the grease fittings, one doesn't (for use with "permanently lubricated" bearings). So, I have some options. Ideas: -- Replace the current sealed chrome-steel bearings (which I think are type 6203-2RS, like this) with sealed stainless steel bearings (type S6203-2RS, like these). I'd use the bearing supports without the lube ports. If some water splashes into the bearing I suppose it still might wash out the lube, but at least the bearings wont rust, which think might pronlong their life a lot. -- Replace current bearings with "dry lube" bearings (they have a dry polymer lubricant that is supposed to be resistant to washingout. -- Use the old-style bearing suports (with the lube ports) and install open stainless steel bearings. This way I can keep the bearings lubricated (hopefully) and the bearings wont rust if water does splash in. Thoughts? Other ways to make these bearings last in regular use? I know Staber is popular with the Sensei and all us followers. Maybe we can find a way to make a very good product better for others who are on the enlightened Staber path.
  20. The time has come to finally replace the bearing(s) on my ASKO 10505 front loader. I have downloaded the "Spare Part Catalogue" and have scoured the web looking for hints and tips on doing the repair. I have had good luck with the repairs I have undertaken, but they have all been relatively basic, motor brush replacements, door lock solenoid, and drive belt replacement. Narrowing down the faulty parts has been basic. I feel confident that I can do the repair, but would like to know a list of parts I will/should replace when I have the machine torn apart. Does a kit exist for a bearing replacement job?
  21. My 11 year old maytag mav6200aww quit spinning. It spun intermittently for a while, then finally stopped altogether. I lifted it up, found what I believe was the remains of the cover that used to be on the main pulley and what looks like a plastic washer. I researched the problem on your site and found that it was recommended to get a thrust bearing kit and belt and replace them. So, when it says to turn it counterclockwise and the brake "should" release and the drum begin to spin... well, it doesn't. in fact after replacing the thrust bearing kit, then turning it counterclockwise to test it, it was difficult to turn and the retaining ring (which wasn't all the way on so that I could replace the washer if necessary after testing), popped off and snapped part of the end of the drive shaft off with it.(the part that holds the ring on, not all of it, but part). What do else do I need to do? Replace the brake? The whole transmission? Please help.
  22. Can anyone help with the steps to replace the tub seal in my maytag pav2300aww? I stripped the holes out when replacing the outer tub and have too much money into this now to just trash it. please help, Thank you!
  23. Hello, I think this is the first time I came to this great site and couldn't find the answer to my appliance problem by readingn / searching the forurms or blogs... OK, here goes... The trusty dryer starts making peridic chirps, then squeaks, then squeals like a stuck pig. If I let it go a few minutes, it quiets down for a while . Thinking something may have gotten past the lint filter, I open it up and look at the blower, which I had replaced less than a year ago. Everythink looks OK. I take the drum out (glides were replaced a few years ago), pull the motor, vacume it out, spin it by hand, seems OK, look at the idler pully, WAY sloppy, but I grease it up and put it all back together. Works fine for about 15 min, then starts up again. I come to and find that the most likely cause is the idler pully. So, I buy the new idler pully kit, new belt (saw some cracking on the ribs, new lint filter and lint filter housing (old one had some holes in it). Parts came today, I install them (and swap out the rollers and add new grease to shafts) and after installing evertying give the dryer a test run. Everything is good... for about 10 min, then the same noises start up again. I pull the front off, and feel the motor bearings, and the front one is very hot. If I pull the motor off the mounting bracket, can I replace the bearings? Or, is the only way I can keep this 20+ year old workhorse running is to replace the whole motor? There is smells coming from it when it spins, and if I pull the belt, it runs quiet. Sounds like bad bearings... Thanks for your help in advance, Mike
  24. Customer complaint on his MLC275CW5 is the dryer is squeaking. He has pulled it, and feels that the noise is from the rear bearing. Can I get away with just replacing the bearing (canadian part # 131825900) or should I replace the entire kit (#5303281153) I don't have either part in truck stock so am wondering which one I should pick up OR is there anything else that commonly squeaks on these machines? Cheers, Thanks!
  25. Before I commit to this repair, since the tools are expensive, I would appreciate it if I could describe the problem and see if the experts here can confirm (or correct) my diagnosis. This 10 year old or so Whirlpool Performa top load washer is reported to make a lot of noise in spin. I got the service manual and looked at the troubleshooting tree, and I read a lot on line. I looked at the washer and tested it out. I found, No noise while agitating a tub full of water. Just a little noise when spinning empty (I forgot to spin it with a heavy load, the owner says it would have been noisier) When I turn the belt by hand with the power off, the pump and transmission move freely in both directions and no noise. While in spin, no noise from the pump. With no load in the spin cycle there is a little scraping noise from the shaft area below the basket.. Spin stops immediately when the lid is open (brake good). The base of the machine underneath the tub looks very clean with no evidence of water marks, metal filings, plastic bits. The suspension springs look good and are quiet. The lower bearing looks clean to me. The motor is quiet. There was tons of gook in the fabric softener cup. I removed the agitator to try to get a better listen to the noise around the shaft, but I didn't remove the spin basket. Does this sound like the spin bearing is causing the noise? I know I should have tested it with a good load in the spin cycle, but as I said, I forgot. Could it be something else? the tub seal? The snubber? I'd like to do this repair but since it's not my washer, I can't try out a bunch of different things, I kind of need to know the probable cause. Many thanks for any help. I feel I am close to an answer, but could use a little help.