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  1. Today
  2. Maytag Dependable care washer LAT9605AAE

    Ok so I just went and picked up the parts that I ordered. In the seal kit there is a funnel type part called mounting stem. It has a cork wrap around the outside. ITS NOT EVEN. It starts out under the lip, when it reaches the allen screw it angles up and goes over the top lip. Just like it was poorly installed. Should I trim it so its all under the top lip? Thanks...if I could post a pic I would... hope it makes sense.
  3. Do you have a way of telling me how to find that other thread, I would like to read it. The forum says I don't permission to view the link you posted. I can't even view the link, much less click on it. I ordered the TCO and the relay board. I got them both reasonable on ebay, so picked them both up.
  4. If had continuity between the yellow wires on J16 ( pins 2 - 5 ) , then you ruled out one of the TCOs ( the one I'd guess would be more likely to prevent powerup). Too bad, that would have been a cheaper fix if that's all it was. The tech sheet is a little ambiguous. The schematic side shows a limit switch between the two yellow wires, and a second limit in series with the Relay 14 ( K14 ). The wiring diagram side only seems to show 1 limit switch between two orange wires, and seems to show wires Y6 and Y7 ( the ones on the schematic side going to a limit switch ) as being crimped together if I'm reading that right. At this point, if I were on a job, I'd start comparing the diagrams to the wires I could see in front of me, try to make some sense of the diagrams with the aid of the physical beast. You're the only one in a good position to sanity check the diagrams, unless any of the other folks around know the wiring from memory. If it were me, I'd still be hunting for that 2nd limit switch, just to rule out an easy fix if nothing else. To test them, you can Ohm or continuity check across the terminals just like you do for wiring. If you find a limit switch that doesn't have continuity, you're on to something. Press the red button if it has one, or replace it if not.
  5. Does anyone know if the water level sensor in the reservoir shut off the fill when the reservoir is full? Or does that just tell the board to go into harvest ?
  6. Yesterday
  7. I do have continuity between those two yellow wires on the door switch, whew! Any way to check the TCO that way that you can tell?
  8. 10644329400 tech sheet needed. Thanks!
  9. need the tech sheet thanks
  10. Amana major

    Now thoes parts may not work if there is another set of numbers after you model number. The way they gave these parts priced and discontinued it may be a better idea to buy a new washer.
  11. Amana major

    Pull the belt and see if the transmission and drain pump turn by hand in both directions. Looks like the tub seal and transmission are Nla but if you google "transmission 12002178" and click on shopping you can find it for over $350.00 and it looks like it comes with a tub seal. Tub seal is Nla also but someone has one on eBay for around $40.00. If you are lucky the drain pump is locked up and that is available. Part number: 201566P
  12. Even though it sounds like the Relay Board's already on it's way, you might want to take a look at this contemporaneous thread that I had missed, similar unit, similar symptom.
  13. What a trial by fire... Amana LWA30AW top load leaks at connection to transmission (center of tub) and no spin but will agitate. Help with what I'm dealing with to look for parts availability. thks . . .
  14. Maytag PAV2300AWW washer. When set to spin mode, nothing turns, but I can hear the timer clicking away. Lid switch seems to be fine. Motor and Drain pump turn freely. Clutch assembly turns until it locks up, then I can turn it the opposite way. Do I need a new motor?
  15. tHANKS FOR THE PROMPT RESPONSE BUT I requested a service manual for a dryer and not a washer. So mebbee we can try again? AMANA Dryer, service manual or tech sheet, NGD7200TW?
  16. Viking Fridge Demo mode

    You can try unplugging the unit. Plug it back in and Press and hold freezer up and fresh food down while it is powering up.
  17. I just proved my own point ( about missing things on tech sheets ). I hadn't noticed a second limit switch drawn into the door lock mechanism ( probably not physically located in the lock ). That one looks like it does loop back to the Relay Board, might prevent powerup even if both 120V legs are present at J20. If you can see two bi-metal looking limit switches, I'd check them both. If you don't see the second (or first ) , try checking for continuity through the connectors / wiring (not the pins on the Relay Board, if you've disconnected it ) between J16-2 and J16-5 ( looks like two yellow wires on J16, maybe ).
  18. Thanx for your help! I ordered the TCO and the relay board. We had a Lemon range when we first got it. They replaced everything for a few months and never got it to work right. So GE replaced it with this one. Untill this mess it has not been a problem. Should we sell it and get something else? It seems like people have issues with the induction ranges. On the other hand, the TCO and relay board are not unique to induction units and we could have had these issues anyhow. I'm mainly worried about all the electronic boards in this thing that are Uber expensive to replace.
  19. It's worth checking the TCO. The way the schematic shows it, it doesn't look like the TCO should interrupt power to the system for powerup, but I've definitely misinterpreted tech sheets before. I'd check it. Yep, checking the DC voltages by removing the connector is fine in this case. If DC isn't there with no load, connecting a load isn't usually going to make it appear. On the other hand ( doesn't apply here ) , if you did see DC with the connector removed, it'd be worth it to check that it wasn't being loaded by something upstream by leaving the connector plugged in and backprobing between the wires and connector body with some tiny probes.
  20. I would get a RCO410 if they have that, it will come with easy to follow instructions and a start capacitor to kick that aging start winding decisively into motion... If you can keep the old overload in the circuit, do so, you will treat the lead on the overload as the "common" on the RCO410 instructions...
  21. it is a comparable RO ( relay/overload) the "P" stands for Push-On... the RO41 will require different wiring.
  22. service manual fpr WP Ref

    this manual is the same publication number as the one your model calls for:
  23. Need a SERVICE MANUAL (NOT the tech sheet) for WP Ref, WRX735SDBM. Anybody?
  24. Need a service manual for Amana Gas dryer NGD7200TW10 . A Tech sheet might also suffice... Anybody have one?
  25. I'm getting nothing on those DC pins. I checked it by pulling off the connector and checking the pins, is that correct? I didn't see any way to check with the connector connected. I also checked AC to the Relay board and have 124 volts on each let in to the board. Will the thermal cut off on the top of the oven do this behavior if it went after the self clean? Seems like the relay board is the problem, but I was wondering if the TCO could do this as well?
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