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  1. MVWC400XW4 no spin

    I have this Maytag and it sometimes spins, sometimes not.....mostly not. I have not done the dial self diagnosis because it seems it would be a shift actuator problem. When I look for that part, I find it for different models. Not this one specifically. I am asking because there must be more this grasshopper must learn....
  2. Good evening all,           I have a stackable unit, LSG7804AAE, in which the dryer portion works perfectly fine but the washer is giving me issues. The unit will fill to the desired level, but it will not do anything else at all. And if you manually advance the timer to the spin cycle it will still do nothing so it will not even drain either. And in both the wash and spin cycles, there isn't even any power getting to the motor. If I am looking at the wiring schematic correctly, I believe I have checked everything in line with the drive motor. I have checked both the lid switch and check switch and they are both operating correctly. I checked the fuse as well and that is fine. I wouldn't think it would be the pressure switch as I believe it would still be able to spin with a bad pressure switch. Am I correct in thinking this? Does this point to a timer issue? Any way to narrow this down even more? I appreciate any and all help in this matter. Thanks in advance everyone.
  3. Washer was leaking, spinning with 747 noise, but got the job done.  Finally stopped spinning, though.  Time to install parts purchsed 3 years ago!   Successfully replaced the Mounting Stem/Seal and Tub Bearing (fun!).  Replaced and tensioned belts.  (Motor slide seems good.)  But it still won't spin and wants to burn that belt. There's a little movement of the tub at first but not much.  It does seem difficult to turn the tub, though there's no obstruction or contact between the top of the tub and the cover, etc.   I fear me this: bad brake bearing.  Cost of that bearing looks low, but the tool to remove the assembly has me looking up other old units on Craig's.  Willing to try that, but if the transmission's gone, the unit's headed for scrap--my fault for waiting to repair--I'd rather not put more $ and time into this one.   How easy should it be to turn the brake assembly from the bottom, by hand?
  4. this washer will go into high speed spin when emty but will not under load could this be with the speed control or motor
  5. I have a GE model wssh300g0ww washer that operates well with the exception of the spin cycle. the barrel will rotate during the wash and spin cycle but will not spin to fully ring out clothes. The pump will pump out any water in the barrel, but clothing is soaking wet because the machine will not do the final spin cycle. I need help because it is not in the budget to call a repair man. Any ideas?
  6. this washer is the style with the little "hump" agitator but not the kind with the big "stator" but a regular motor off to one side and a belt that connects to transmission pulley. Washer does not spin ,appears to fill and wash but when it should spin no noise nothing and the countdown stops at i believe was 11 minutes showing and you smell definite electrical burning smell. cleared and put into "drain spin" cycle and started think it said 18 minutes but it gets to 11 or 12 minutes then pumps out and stops and as i said timer stops counting down. Turned off and looked under neath and motor is red hot and burns your hand if touched. belt not worn at all looks brand new and transmission pulley turns freely by hand. Bad motor??? or something else . any input appreciated.
  7. Have watched YouTube video to discover this issue and pull codes.  Situation different from video since this one WILL agitate and go to high spin when empty.  Unfortunately it is randomly stopping - lid lock has gone off and machine does not continue cycle but just sits, or lid lock can blink and machine completely stops and turns off.  Not sure if there's a load sensor or if the shift actuator is bad and just messing with things.  Any suggestions?   Pam
  8. Kon'nichiwa!   I have a Maytag Neptune (MAH8700AWW) that recently started throwing the "ND" code which I know means Not Draining. It throws the code, I push the cycle selector, whereupon the code goes away and the machine (seemingly) goes on about it's merry draining ways. On and on and on...But it never goes on to the spin cyle and after a few minutes the familiar "ding, dong" and ND message.   I must mention that it makes draining sounds and it does drain because I pulled the drain hose out of the drain to make sure.   At first I thought it was a bad water pump so I took off the back and did all the necessary rigmarole to remove the pump. Took it off the frame, took it apart, nothing stuck in there. Removed the drain hose that leads from the bottom of the tub to the pump to make sure there warn't no skimpy panties up in there or nuthin'. Nuthin'! Put it all back together, ran an empty spin cycle, it drained just fine. Reloaded wet load, ran rinse and spin cycle, did it! Yay! Success, right? WRONG SUCKA!   Ran the next load and started hearing the all-too-familiar-and-hated "ding, dong" from hell. DRAT! Now, I've seen the ding-dong chime at 16 minutes, 48 minutes and, I think, 33 minutes, but I guess that all just depends on the cycle that was selected. So, took it apart again to see if maybe there was something that was, indeed, stuck in the tub drain hose but no luck.   It seems like there is something electronically wonky that it won't allow it to move on, like it's having emotional issues that it just can't get beyond. "Come on, Neptune, she left ya, it's over, nuthin' you can do about it...MOVE ON, DUDE!" But it won't move on to drain those sad useless feelings. Ahem! Anywho, so, any thoughts from the Jedi Council? Help me, Sa-Mu-Rai, you're my only hope!
  9. Greetings,   I have an Admiral LNC6544A80 washing machine that will not drain.   All other functions work; fill, agitate, spin.   Currently only drains during spin cycle, which is putting a lot of stress on the motor and machine and not completely rinsing, forcing to run an additional spin cycle.   I did replace the drain pump, which I think the old one was still good.   There was an object in the drain tube leading to the pump, but it did still spin freely, so I kept as a back up.   Thinking maybe there was some bad circuitry in the lid switch, I removed and bypassed and still have the same problem.   Timer seems to be working, it does go through all the cycles, except when it comes to the drain cycle (before spinning), all I hear is a click in the timer, but does drain (no motor noise that would drive the belt), then timer will click again and go into spin cycle, which does drain, but I think with the force of the spinning.   Any tips on what else I can trouble shoot before I start being a parts changing monkey.   Thanks in advance.
  10. My front load Frigidaire Washer will not spin during it's final spin.  It displays error code E47. I have already   - opened up the drain and cleared the boot and the drain hose ($0.61 and 3 bobby pins)  - replaced the door lock assembly  - yelled in frustration   I was very much hoping to avoid the speed control board replacement since the machine has a dryer sitting on top of it.   Help!   Kimberley
  11. Hello all,   Searching random posts looking for answers and decided to post my problem.   Kenmore HE2T Model: 110.47561603.   We've had the washer for about 7 years now and haven't had an issue. Cleaned out the trap a couuple of times but other than that, pretty reliable. We've only ever used Express wash. Recently the washer would not complete or drain/spin to finish the cycle. In working through this issue I noted that the washer would tumble but not go through it's high spin cycle, which is why I believe that the issue isn't that it's not draining but that it simply doesn't spin the water out of the clothes.   I checked all the normal things in the process: 1. Cleaned out the drain basket 2. Checked that there wasn't anything in tube from the tub to the drain 3. Nothing on the inlet to the pump or outlet from pump 4. overflow hose seems clear as I can blow air into the end at the valve 5. Can hear the valve work (2 clicks) when I blow into it gently 6. Tried various wash cycles and it would appear only the Machine Clean cycle and the Rinse, Spin and drain cycle works.   When starting the wash cycle, it doesn't sound like much water is being added to the load. When looking at the clothes you can actually see and feel dry spots that never got water. It runs for about 10 mins of a 30 min cycle. It will tumble at low speeds in both directions, and with 20 mins left you can hear the drain pump and some water is removed (not much) after this runs for a minute or so, the machine unlocks the door and shuts off.   When I run diagnostics the only code I see is F20 - No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.   The odd part is all functions fine on the Rinse, Spin and Drain cycles (lots of water added to the drum, drains properly (good flow) and spins at high speed). Any ideas as to what specifically can be causing the other cycles to fail and turn of the washer?   All help welcomed, if you suggest a part replacement, please explain why and how to troubleshoot the faulty part first if possible.   Thank you in advance.   Randy
  12. Appliantologists,   The clothes washer in question is a Kenmore 110.24832200, about 12 years old according to a serial number search I did (I bought it refurbished about 3 years ago).  On a fast spin cycle it gradually gets more and more out of balance until the washer is dancing around and there is the occasional banging sound.  It performs OK on the slow spin speed, although you can see that the drum is out of balance.   The leveling of the cabinet is good.  I've checked it across the front, across the back, front to back on each side and also corner to opposite corner.  The self leveling legs at the rear seem to be working perfectly.  I checked the leveling of the tub with the cabinet removed.  It seems good and the tub returns to a level position.   The suspension springs look good, although I don't know what to look for when examining them, so I might miss it unless it's something obvious like one being broken or disconnected.   The counterbalancing spring and the leveling spring (at the back) are rusted but intact and in place.   I've read about snubber or wear pads on these that can also wear down and cause this problem.  Don't know if these were replaced when the washer was refurbished, and I haven't removed the drum to check them.   My question is, do these symptoms seem more like spring symptoms, snubber pad symptoms, both, or something else?  I'm thinking they are more like spring symptoms because of the way the drum gets up to full speed for a while and the vibration develops, getting worse and worse.  But I'd like to get some second opinions about diagnosing or fixing this:  replace all the springs, including the suspension springs or just replace the rusted leveling and counterbalance spring?, or replace the pads? or both? or something else entirely?   Thank you!    
  13. 3yrs old. serial az******m. machine not fully spinning the clothes out. Spin appears to be slow with no load. No cracks in stator and no leak at bearing. GE had some issues w/unit cracking and breaking off mech housing spline at infusor. I dont think thats what Im dealing with. Anybody ever had a board issue on these machines?
  14. Washer only spins at slow speed. Pump clear and function OK. No water left in drum. Door switch OK. Normal operation otherwise but slow spin leaves clothes wet. Selecting "spin only" results in only slow spin as well.
  15. Please help -  oh, Wise and Ancient ones! I'm attempting to repair Mom's machine and I need your wisdom (and many brews) before I tear my little grasshopper legs out at the socket... Initially, other than doing the room walk, this Performa topload was working okay. So I replaced the Snubber Ring and Springs; the spin was back in balance but upon checking the wash cycle, i found it spagitating. Since all had been well prior to the repair, I knew it couldnt be the Tranny or MotorA So It made sense to me that running out of balance for so long was bound to have some effect on the thrust bearing. And upon replacement of the bearing/pulley assy, I fount that the bearing itself was worn and rattled when shaken. I tested the repair and the brake was consistantly releasing right smack in the middle of the notches. Put it back together and during agitation, it would make the electrical clicking noise the motor makes as it shifts position and direction, only out of time and sync with the agitations. Then with one very loud click and hum, it stopped agitating. I tested the motor by bypassing the switch and It works fine in both directions, But hook it up to the belt and you get one loud click as the motor shifts to the left- then a hum. but i dont smell electrical burning, I smell burning rubber. The belt is intact with cracking or fraying - BUT, the washer IS, after all 9 to 10 years old with this being its first repair. Also the pump turns both ways unimpeded and has no excess play to it. However without previously knowing the amount of tension or the movement displayed by the motor on the plate, I can only say that at this time it appears to be overly loose at the plate and when shifting the motor by hand, it moves freely, but not smoothly - kind of grabbing at the plate while moving it.   Your age old knowledge, wisdom, and correct fix for this issue would net you a loyal server and beer supplier for LIFE! A Thousand Thanks! alottlessbs
  16. Hello!   LG WM210H washing machine approx. 5 years old.  Washer stops prior to beginning spin cycle and shuts down with regular-sized load.  At times, will begin cycle for short time but will then shut down and fuse (in home fuse box) has been blown a couple of times at this point.  Will run VERY SMALL loads, approx. 4-5 items, but nothing heavy.  Have a pretty handy hubby but not sure what needs replacing.  Please help - we need clean underwear!   Thank you!!
  17. Have a call lined up for a 19 year old Kenmore stackable washer 110.1650290 Stylemaster 4213575REVD. Complaint of does not spin and does not seem to be agitating. Clothes wet when load finished. No unusual noises or odors. Options I'm planning on looking at are the door switch, coupling, possible drive belt if it has one, or maybe even a bad drive block. Not sure if it is direct drive. Any other ideas or recommendations. No info on this machine so going in blind. Thanks in advance for your help.
  18. MAH9700AWM no tech sheet inside machine (request pending on tech sheet forum) and won't spin with any load. Unit was shipped and moved recently and never behaved since. See evidence of motor retaining nut hitting rear panel denting and scratching. No error codes seen by myself or client. Just seems like it detects imbalance and assesses the load over and over tumbling and trying to spin then stopping and tumbling stalling countdown when trying to spin at end of wash before rinse or at 8 mins remaining for spin when in either rinse/spin selected or spin only selected. customer says they had seen it beep like mad sometimes and seen it jerk 1 inch then stop when it tries to spin (remember seeing Samsung units do this when pressure switch malfunction but on those will not even start the spin and this one does get spinning but then stops to redistribute load). Unable to replicate what they saw when did test load of 4 large bath towels 2x. 1st time on rinse and spin stuck on 8 or 9 min remaining mark then tried spin, slowed down and redistributed and tried again to spin getting about 1/3-1/2 speed then redistribute and so on, then it jumped itself back to 11 mins remaining and added more water so i cancelled the cycle. 2nd try on spin only it did same long tumbles trying to assess and balance then spin a bit then tumble to redistribution of load and try spinning and so on but (instead of going back to 11 mins remaining and adding water) it finally advanced past 8 mins remaining and did a slower safe-mode-style spin with drain pump cycling on for a bit and off for longer than usual periods (usually runs constant during spin right?). The unit is in a bad location up on a pedistal behind a sink they would have had to deadlift the machine over to get it shoehorned in. Good grief...
  19. I looked at this machine today. The complaint was that one load would come out dry and the next load would have to spin 3 or 4 times. Otherwise the machine is clean and in excellent condition. It spins with very little vibration. I ran 2 loads without incident.    Ideas?   Thanks.  
  20. I have a Frigidaire front load washer model FWT449GFS1 that does not spin at any time (agitation, final spin, etc.).  It will fill and drain water.  I followed the troubleshooting schematic with all voltage readings (and motor winding resistances) checking out leading to replacement of the speed control board.  That did not fix the problem so I ended up replacing the timer and motor as well.  The motor still does not spin.  I can hear and feel the motor getting some juice but it appears to not be enough to actually get it turning.  Any help in narrowing down the cause is appreciated. Thanks, Steve
  21. I am experiencing two problems with my Kenmore 417.90862990 Washer/Dryer.  #1 below is most critical.  #2 below I have been living with, but wish to fix:   1. Last night I found water coming out of an overflow hole on the tub and immediately turned it off.  I noticed the washer's pump wasn't working.  I put the washer back in spin mode and tapped the pump with a hammer, which got it working again.  However, it was a little noisy.  It looks like the pump can be disassembled.  Is that true?  Is it possible something is lodged in the pump (impeller??)  causing the issue?  Thoughts?  Should I first take it apart, if possible?  Replacement part is:   2. For several years now when the wash timer enters spin mode, it sometime goes into agitation mode instead.  My workaround is to open the lid and with a screwdriver cycle on and off the lid switch.  After doing that usually several times, the washer will go into spin mode.  I then close the lid and allow it to fully spin dry the clothes.  Strange thing is this happens more often with small loads, less often with large loads which throws me off?  What might cause this problem?  Can it be the timer itself?  I am not sure what what or how the transmission is told to go from agitation mode to spin, etc.     Thanks for any help!  
  22. My Kenmore Elite 90 series washer (110.20922990) has started tripping the GFCI outlet that it is plugged into. I've recently read that it might not be best to plug a washer into a GFCI outlet, but it is in a bathroom next to a sink so I think that was the reason for it. It's been like that since we moved into this house almost 8 years ago and we've never had a problem with it until now. Last week when it quit working, the washer agitated fine, but when it switched to spin mode (pre-rinse) it tripped the GFCI outlet and stopped. Resetting the outlet doesn't work, it just trips again as soon as we try to start the washer.   I've heard it could be related to the timer, transmission, motor, capacitor and who knows what else. Is there a way to isolate the cause of the breaker tripping? I've replaced the timer within the last couple of years, the transmission last fall, feed dogs and coupler recently replaced, fwiw.   We're reaching laundry crisis status so I await any words of wisdom you might be able to share with me.   Thanks!   Trudi
  23. I have a Kenmore Gas dryer that does not tumble. When the start switch is pressed the drum begins to rotate ( barely moves ) and then stops and makes a buzzing sound. I have replaced the drum belt, support wheels and the tensioner idler.   I suspect that it may be the motor, but I am not sure.   The drum rotates freely in one direction. The dryer does not heat or get past the first fraction of a second.   Is there anything other than the motor that I should check ? How can I check the motor before buying another one ?   The dryer is about 10 years old,
  24. The washer is barely agitating.  It whirrs/squeals rythmically as the drum goes back and forth. Opening it every minute shows the red sock on top doesn't move very far around the drum.   The belt is new. The pulleys on the bottom all move easily by hand. It spins just fine.   So what is going bad?   Thanks for your anticipated help. Its only because of your parts and this forum that I've kep it running this long.   rebecca
  25. okay I have a repackaged whirlpool direct drive unit labeled a maytag centenial MVWC300VW0. The customer complaint is the unit stops mid cycle. The lid switch is fine I checked that first. I even temporarily bypassed it for testing purposses. The unit would not start agitation or spin. It filled just fine. I turned the temp selector switch W10202616 and the water seemed to adjust in temp as I moved the dial so i don't think thats the issue. I moved the dial to several locations for the spin and none of them kicked on the motor. I did the same thing for agitate and it wouldn't start either I blew into the pressure switch to bypass uncessarily filling the unit with water. So then I traced electrical supply down to the motor and the second I touch the motor connecter it started working. So I thought maybe it was just the motor connector being loose because is was slighlty loose. after that everything worked fine start stop of agitate and spin worked perfectly. So I left the customer with a fully tested and working machine only to get recalled within 24 hours. She ran one succesful load and then the second load failed. I'm checking with you fellow masters to see what route I could take to resolve this. I think it could be a timer issue or a motor issue. I'm leaning more toward timer because the motor never seemed hot or humming upon startup.   Thanks,   Dean