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  1. Have a GE bottom freezer  that evaporator fan noisy as ice builds up on top right side of evaporator and eventually into the fan blade in the refrigerator section. Has to be thawed out every 12 months. Drain probe has already been added and there is no water in the evaporator trough. Is there a "fix" for this or just thaw out every year. There does not seem to be any air leaks in refrigerator section
  2. Washer 110.28002010

    Need to know... The output of the motor control circuit should only put 120VAC on one winding (CCW or CW) at a time? If I measure the output of the control board I seem to get 120VAC on both windings, at the same time.The start capacitor checks good, so I'm thinking the Triac circuitry may have gone bad. It there a way the triac for the motor control can be replaced, instead of the whole control board? Whenever the motor is supposed to drive (spin, agitate) it just hums. As I said, there is 120VAC on both windings at this time. I would assume during spin, it should only have 120VAC on one winding (CW or CCW).... Have run the diagnostics and it keeps saying replace main control board. Seems there is a less expensive way to repair, $220.00 may be more than it is worth....
  3. Replacing the condenser fan motor and forgot to look which way the fan should have been placed back on the new motor.  I think the air flow should go over the coils and NOT towards the condenser, but the motor is pulling the air that direction.  1.) Is there a way to change the direction of the air flow (I don't think so) and 2.) if not, can it go towards the compressor without a problem?...if I leave the access panel off and allow the heat to escape?  I ordered the part from your affiliate (Appliance Parts Pro) and this is what they sent me....thanks in advance.
  4. Looked at this GE SXS last week. Customer complaint fridge was too warm in both compartments. Fridge 8 degr Celsius and Freezer - 5 degr. Celsius. Cond. fan motor was barely rotating. Compressor very hot and cut out on too high temperature. Took the cond fan motor out to check at home as per Samurai Video. Fan motor is fine. Left the fridge with a domestic fan behind the fridge to cool compressor and condenser coil. Fridge and freezer are working fine now. The motherboard is very hard to get here and very expensive!!.Leaves me with the option of having the original board repaired which leaves the customer with no fridge for a week. Can anybody tell me if I can install a small 220 volts fan motor like on the Amana 3 door bottom mount  G37025PEAS   Maytag Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Part number: W10246191     and supply it with 220 volts by wiring it parallel to the compressor supply.( good old regular compressor).   This would give me the option of cutting cost for costumer leave with a very nice margin and probably a very happy customer who has not to manage a week with no fridge.   Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  5. File Name: Energy Efficient Temperature Regulating And Defrost Control Systems - Whirlpool Job Aid File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 29 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863 Click here to download this file
  6. Version


    Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863
  7. Unit had a noisy spin, gearcase leaking oil. I replaced the gearcase under extended warranty. I also replaced the cam assembly because it was loaded full of oil. Everything is running very smooth now. No Codes showing. I noticed the drive motor seemed hot. Around 126 degrees. Does anyone know if this is normal? I could not find any information on this subject. I eliminated any extra drag that may have occured with a gearcase going bad. The shift mechanism is working normally. Actually the machine is working great, but I have never noticed a motor getting that hot before.  
  8. This down draft fan low speed fan quit working early in the year the high speed quit working early July.  I had DC voltage coming into the board From the J4 connector cable coming from PCB.   12vdc  drops down to 7vdc when low speed is activate & basically zeros out when off.  No voltage to either relay coming out.  I have a 118vac going into the relay spade coming directly from theterminal block.   I replaced the downdraft board & fan speeds worked fine then.   Client said that she used the oven fans maybe 3 times in the following several weeks (I believe that)   I am back to square one now which same thing DC voltage in No relay voltage out.   I jumped the high speed side of motor out & it runs.   I did not jump the low speed out for fear of damaging wiring from standstill.   Is it possible that my fan motor is drawing to much currant as to be taking the relays out or am I grasping at air.  I did not think to take wattage of fan motor when jumping.  I had low ohms when I checked for resistance but nothing I can find to compare them to.   Should I be backing up to the PCB? 
  9. Turn on, and it sounds like a blower motor. Drum doesn't turn, no other action.
  10. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!
  11. OK... getting a 3E error on my maytag MAH8700A washer.   Need to check the resistance on the 1,2,3 pins to see if they are around 3 Ohms.  OK.  Problem is... I cannot for the life of me figure out how to unlock the molex connector to the motor.  How do I release the lock?  DOH!    
  12. We replaced the blower housing after plastic broke around the shaft's nut.  Reassembled and the motor hums but nothing turns.  Motor shaft and blower blades turn easily by hand.  With the drum out, when we turn the blades by hand and start it, it seems to catch and spin about 2 seconds without a hum, then we hear a click and it turns off.    Tested the thermal fuse with a multimeter - is OK.  Cleaned and double checked all connections are correct.    Before the blower housing repair, the drum was still turning and drying clothes, it was just noisy at the beginning and end (from the blower housing blades spinning/bouncing a few extra times).   Any suggestions? ... please?
  13. Hello,   my mother who lives in Jamaica, has a GE PROFILE PGSS5PJXB refrigerator/freezer and for the past few months both compartments have been unable to maintain their temperature (both fridge and freezer are running warm). She has lost weeks of groceries and has had several repairmen come to look at and assess the problem to no avail. We assume that the technicians in Jamaica are not that familiar with this technology and are unable to find the source of the problem. One repairman stated that the gasket around the door may be faulty, it was replaced and no change. The other said that it needed refrigerant, which was change. Both repairmen expressed that the compressor and fan are working properly.  She has become very frustrated that no one seems to be able to identify and fix this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Went on this monster built in GE monogram fridge and found the evaporator fan not working.  Opened up the freezer inside top cover in the top back and found the fan not working.  Found a piece of foam insulation had fallen from above and jammed it up so it couldn't turn and it got hot and burnt up.  The fridge had been running hot for 3 or 4 days before I could get by to look at it and the evaporator was all cold and frosty but of coarse the freezer and fresh food were hot.  I replaced the fan and relocated the insulation back where it came from and put everything back together and told them to let me know how it goes.  They called next day and said all is still hot.  I told them to turn it off for 24 hours and try it again, thinking the evap was probably frozen up and not letting air circulate.  They did this and called back saying no improvement.  I pulled a manual for a similar modal number but it is not the same. 31-9117.  Am going back tomorrow to look at it.  I was hoping for a manual for this model.  I have no experience on working on one of these.  Any ideas will be helpful.  I'm thinking I have an air flow issue and also need to check the evaporator which I'm not sure how to get to it.  It's in the top.   Doc    
  15. Okay, I'm an appliance dummy, and maybe an ohmmeter dummy as well. Had the F25 (motor tach) code show up. Pulled it out, checked the hoses, wiring, filter, the usual stuff. Got into the plug-in connectors to check the ohms on the motor(s), and it makes no sense. The Motor plug-in block reads (from the top downward):   1-2 = 0 ohms  2-3 = 0 1-3 = 0   At the corresponding panel (the white box on the side, where the harness goes back to): 1-2 = 18 ohms 2-3 = 4, but then goes up to 1K 1-3 = 1K   While I was at it, I tried the two poles on the little pump motor below the tub: 0 ohms.   Okay, I realize I've got a little POS GB Instruments (GMT-312) multimeter(0 to1K), but come'on. Yes, the battery's new & I did zero it.   What's up with the readings? Any feedback appreciated.
  16. Can't figure out why this unit is not making ice. Any one ever worked on this unit?
  17. Greetings Appliantologists!   The wife and I let our screeching washer go too long before addressing the problem and it is now dead. No power.   I have: Unplugged it, waited several minutes, and plugged it back in with no change.  
  18. I have a 2001 Frigidaire Range.  Three times recently the motorized oven door lock has activated and locked the door without the Self-Cleaning feature being selected.  Twice it happened when the oven was in use.  The 3rd time was about 15 minutes after the oven had been turned off.    Looking at the Wiring Diagram, it appears that the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) is the only thing that could cause this failure.  I can't see how a motor failure could do it.  The EOC is a very pricey unit.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the logical place for the failure?   Also, my tenant is afraid that the self-cleaning cycle is going to start on its own, but I have told them that the motor wouldn't start the self-cleaning cycle.  Yet, if the EOC is failing, I suppose it could cause that failure also.  Should they be concerned?   Thank you!
  19. Have been investigating and watching videos, etc. for my LG dishwasher LDF7811ST, including this video by ( ).  I have checked the wires behind the door, they look fine. I have checked the impeller for debris ... no debris, but impeller doesn't turn by hand (should it normally)   So it sounds like the vario motor is probably the problem.   Should I replace just the vario motor (about $80) or the whole sump assembly (about $134). If there is absolutely no reason to replace the whole thing, that makes sense, but if there is a chance that the whole assembly could have issues, I'm glad to replace that too (make sure the whole thing is operating well with good gaskets, etc.)   Are there any other possible things to look for, or am I in the right direction?   Thank you!
  20. Recently, My frigidaire dishwasher circulation motor started making a winding noise. I opened the door and the jets were not running or moving at all.  I pulled the dishwasher out and flipped it over on its back after turning off the power supply. Then removed the motor and inside the cover there was dust like pencil led. So I removed the motor and turned the power supply back on and the motor is running in reverse so the impellers cant force the water into the jet arm to wash the dishes. My gut tells me its a bad motor,but could it be the control board? 
  21. My washer was making a grinding noise partway though the wash, and after poking around online and in the washer I realized that the motor coupler was broken.  I ordered a new (plastic) coupler and replaced the broken one and thought I had the problem licked. When I tried running the washer with a small load to test that everything was ok I noticed that the tub wasn't spinning (I had removed the lid latch switch so I could operate it manually- it works), and removing the motor again I determined that the coupler was stripped, possibly because I did not mate the coupler firmly enough with the motor.   I replaced the stripped half with the unbroken old coupler half making sure that it was firmly seated, and tried to run a load, and it promptly cracked.  Did I do something wrong, or is there something else wrong with the washer leading to the failed couplers?  The tub turns both CW and CCW without too much difficulty, and the transmission shaft turns by hand CCW for a few turns and then needs a wrench for a turn before becoming easier in a cycle, and CW can be turned by hand for a few turns and then starts to turn the tub with more resistance and then won't turn anymore even with a wrench. Does this sound like a problem with the transmission? Any help would be appreciated. thnx
  22. Compressor running and fan is not.  When I plugged the refrigerator in, the fan turned about 1/8th turn and stopped.  Checked voltage to fan and there was none.  Pulled fan, checked at appliance repair shop and it's operational.  Checked internet and it appeared to be the main control board.  Ordered a repaired board-original board P/N 2306988- and got replacement board P/N 2307037 which is supposed to be the latest board for this unit.  Installed new board and same problem-plugged in refrigerator and fan turned about 1/8th turn and stopped.  Checked voltage to fan and again there is none.  Any Ideas???
  23. I have had many service calls this last few months on AMANA  Bottom mount fridges usually AB1924PEKW or very similar. In 9 out of 10 cases it is an iced over freezer coil and simply a matter of replacing the defrost thermostat.Lately I had some fridges were I had to replace the jazzboard. In 1 case the jazzboard was so badly damaged that I decided to replace both board and freezer fan motor. My friend who works for the company here in Israel, who represents Amana, told me once that the evaporator fan motor is very often the cause of the board failure. Can anybody tell me what kills these boards and how do I decide if I replace just the board(when it looks healthy by vision) or any additional parts.
  24. Maytag sxs esp fan not running. Replaced both fan motor and jazz board. Still not running. I have no tech sheet and cannot find the wiring schematic online. Don't know where to go from here. REALLY need that schematic! HELP ME !
  25. Yesterday I went out on a Samsung TL washer, WA456* style, which was intermittently giving a 3E motor overcurrent error. Previous tech had replaced the rotor and stator to no avail. After checking everything relevant in the tech lit, we were left with only one possibility: the customer was overloading it.  We called the customer down to broach this delicate topic, which she adamantly denied. "I only put 10 t-shirts and two pairs of jeans in it!" she exclaimed, gesturing wildly. "Sure you did, sure you did," my inner monologue exclaimed. "I think it's the shocks!" said the customer. *eye roll*. "Why do you think it's the shocks?" I inquired. "Well, because the tub is hanging down about 6 inches below the bottom of the lid. "Give me a few moments more, and I will let you know what I find." Turns out the machine was overloading itself, with water. It was filling all the way up to the tub cover, which was causing the overcurrent error in the motor. We did some further testing and found the proper frequency at the pressure transducer, and at the board, so the determination is bad main board, which not reading or processing the input correctly.    TLDR: motor overload errors can be caused by too much water in the tub.