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  1.                   Need help .  Customers complaint was icemaker not making ice.   On this  LG refrigerator has a test button to cycle icemaker to dump the ice and it calls for water .   I checked the temperatures in the freezer compartment when I got there and it was good 5° Fahrenheit.     I press the test button and the old icemaker didn't react ,  so I replaced it . I hit the test button on the new icemaker It twist the tray and the water came in  so I thought I was good to go. Got  a call from the customer 24 hours later icemaker not make a nice.  I came back and found the ice That poured in still in the ice tray .   I took temperatures again in the freezer compartment and it was 0°F .  At the same time I check the icemaker thermistor  And the voltage was approximately 3.3 V and 26.46K ohms.  The service manual has 3 charts for thermistors one is for the freezer and one for the icemaker sensor.   Chart 2 of the icemaker sensor at 0°F has around 3 volts and about 60,000 ohms . Chart one that is referring to the freezer sensor is more like the readings I had 3.3 volts 26.46 k ohms had about 13° negative Fahrenheit. So not sure about the  ice maker thermistor  chart I just replace the control board.   And it still not making ice . Help anybody . 
  2. Kitchen aid under counter ice maker making very loud clicking noise and main light blinking. It makes ice very well but the noise is driving us crazy. Video to follow.  Please help.  
  3. I have an Amana ABD2233DES refrigerator with a bottom mount freezer. Fridge compartment was warm, compressor was running and the damper was open no air was coming in. Fridge had some ice on the center-rear of its floor (like where the cold air should have been coming up from the freezer compartment. Freezer had a lot of ice frost buildup on coils.  Thanks to the videos I discovered the tech sheet and put it into service test mode. Defrost Thermostat was S" for open. I observed the damper door opening and closing. I put it into forced defrost mode. Compressor shut off and the defroster heating rod came on. There was so much ice I had to go through about 7-8 forced defrosts and I used a heat gun to melt.  I have ordered a new jazz board. My question is: While I am waiting for my board I need to continue to use the fridge and I'd rather not have to throw away any more food!  My plan is just to force defrost at least 1x per day. But then I realized that I have no idea if that will be enough! I guess I never really noticed/paid attention to the defrost cycles before so how do I know if the defrost cycle is continuing to fail to initiate on its own? About how often does a fridge operating properly, defrost? If I find that there is a bunch of frost buildup and/or the fridge isn't keeping cool - can someone point me to the way to do a longer/deeper forced defrost? Is doing manual forced defrosts until my board shows up in a week a wise strategy? thanks all,  Steve
  4. Washer 110.28002010

    Need to know... The output of the motor control circuit should only put 120VAC on one winding (CCW or CW) at a time? If I measure the output of the control board I seem to get 120VAC on both windings, at the same time.The start capacitor checks good, so I'm thinking the Triac circuitry may have gone bad. It there a way the triac for the motor control can be replaced, instead of the whole control board? Whenever the motor is supposed to drive (spin, agitate) it just hums. As I said, there is 120VAC on both windings at this time. I would assume during spin, it should only have 120VAC on one winding (CW or CCW).... Have run the diagnostics and it keeps saying replace main control board. Seems there is a less expensive way to repair, $220.00 may be more than it is worth....
  5. GS5SHAXNL00 Whirlpool Conquest side-by-side, ice make in freezer door. It won't dispense crushed ice, and sometimes won't dispense cubes.   No problem with production.  Chute clear.  Auger motor turns and sounds normal in both directions (it turns one direction for cubes and the other for crushed ice).  Auger itself is free turning in both directions.  When a torque load is applied to the auger, like when chopping the ice, it sounds like the gear is skipping.  And with the rhythm of the skipping sound, the ice removable receptacle/dispensing and chopping unit vibrates.  I have examined the point where the 3-toothed flat gear on the bottom of the receptacle joins with the gear on the auger motor, and it appears normal - no apparent wear, no obstruction.  The screws holding all apparently relevant parts are tight.  There is nothing causing the receptacle to not seat completely.  To me all symptoms point to the auger motor gear not completely engaging with the auger gear. Any help?? Thank you
  6. Kitchenaid KUIA15PLLS11 Ice Machine Wiring Sheet View File PUB 2324311 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 01/09/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  7. Version 1.0.0

    5 downloads

    PUB 2324311
  8. My 3 year old Samsung RF4287HARS has been working flawlessly until recently, when the ice maker began producing small ice cubes.  I've checked all the logical solutions . . . water pressure is fine, water line is good, replaced the filter, reset the ice maker.  None seem to make an impact.  My next step is to adjust the water fill level to the ice tray but I can't find the right button combination on the display panel.  I've spent hours searching for this and no luck.  I found some instructions in another post for a different Samsung model but it does not work on mine.  Any guidance?  Very appreciative of any help.
  9. I have the exact same ice maker as you video ( ). My maker just suddenly stopped making ice. The optics check out OK per your video description, two blinking lights when sensor blocked and steady light when sensor not blocked. When I did the jumper motor test, the motor started and initiated the harvest cycle. It expelled the old ice left in the tray and then it even filled the tray again with water. I thought that perhaps having done this the unit was reset so I emptied the water from the tray so I could reassemble the unit back in the freezer and waited for it to make ice but nothing after at least 48 hours. Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated.
  10. Have been battling ice on the sidewall of the refrigerator section for a few months.  Checked all the pans, cleaned traps, checked with water, cleaned jelly roll condenser, all the fans I can see in the refrigerator section work at times.  What is an ice ball kit and will it help with this problem?  Thanks.  BTW, this has been a troublesome appliance since the start.  
  11. Our Frigidaire FGUI1849LP1 stopped making ice.  There was a leak around the water inlet valve, so I replaced the valve for good measure.  I measured the Ohms on the new and old valve, and they were identical.  I have 40 PSI going into the valve, the flow is good.  Still no ice.  Now II want to diagnose the motor, and the videos I found talk about jump starting the motor.  There are three unmarked holes on the face of the motor.  And unlike the models in the videos, the face plate is metal, so will I blow the ice maker to kingdom come if I try to jump it?      Please advise on diagnosing the problem and thank you for your time!    
  12. Hi all, I find myself once again with water dispenser failure. I previously beat a frozen water line into submission with your kind assistance. (Read the riveting story here http://appliantology.org/topic/47223-ge-g2ixefmwb01-door-water-dispenser-stopped-working/?fromsearch=1) This time seems to be a valve issue, however. Here's why I think so, and what I've done so far: Firstly, both the water and the ice maker have stopped producing, whereas before I only lost water. Also, I have pulled the water line loose directly from the outgoing side of the valve in back of the fridge (near the coils and canister), and cannot get water flow from there when depressing the switch for the dispenser. Other info: I knew trouble was a-brewin a few months ago, when I started hearing a sputtering / chattering racket when the valve would kick open for the ice maker. At the time, I had just installed one of those "bargain" AquaFresh brand filters, so I chalked it up to that, or a bit of air in the line. I've since gone back to the the GE brand, but obviously this was not the cure. The issue persists either with the filter or the bypass plug installed. So, down to the actual questions: 1. Did the off-brand filter possibly cause this failure, or is it just coincidence? 2. Should I go ahead and replace the valve, or is there something else I should check first?
  13. Is there an update heater for the drain at the back of the fridge? The drain hose freezes and the defrost water refreezes behind the vegetable drawers until they don't close. I have a copper wire threaded part way down the drain hose and that lengthens the time it takes to get badly iced.
  14. KUIC18NNTS0 Kitchen Aid Ice Machine, shuts off randomly   We have 2 of these ice machines doing the same thing.    They will run normal for a few days then it will harvest and will not start the next cycle.  It will sit there and do nothing. Some times when it stops the transformer hums, some times it is completely silent.  Both thermisters and the board have been replaced.   When I checked the thermisters they are both with in tolerance about 10K ohm at room temp.    Has anyone seen this before?
  15. Replacing the condenser fan motor and forgot to look which way the fan should have been placed back on the new motor.  I think the air flow should go over the coils and NOT towards the condenser, but the motor is pulling the air that direction.  1.) Is there a way to change the direction of the air flow (I don't think so) and 2.) if not, can it go towards the compressor without a problem?...if I leave the access panel off and allow the heat to escape?  I ordered the part from your affiliate (Appliance Parts Pro) and this is what they sent me....thanks in advance.
  16.  Hi all, this macine is making ice just fine, but when it slides down to the cutting grid it just sits there until it melts. The grid looks good visually - no wires broken, and it has continuity from one end to the other. he plug looks fine, the wires leading to the grid look good too. I don't see a burned spot on the board but I'm still suspecting that's the problem.  I have no idea how to put it into defrost or what the grid voltage should be when it is in defrost either. Do these boards cause a lot of problems or am I looking in the wrong direction? Thanks
  17. Looked at this GE SXS last week. Customer complaint fridge was too warm in both compartments. Fridge 8 degr Celsius and Freezer - 5 degr. Celsius. Cond. fan motor was barely rotating. Compressor very hot and cut out on too high temperature. Took the cond fan motor out to check at home as per Samurai Video. Fan motor is fine. Left the fridge with a domestic fan behind the fridge to cool compressor and condenser coil. Fridge and freezer are working fine now. The motherboard is very hard to get here and very expensive!!.Leaves me with the option of having the original board repaired which leaves the customer with no fridge for a week. Can anybody tell me if I can install a small 220 volts fan motor like on the Amana 3 door bottom mount  G37025PEAS   Maytag Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Part number: W10246191     and supply it with 220 volts by wiring it parallel to the compressor supply.( good old regular compressor).   This would give me the option of cutting cost for costumer leave with a very nice margin and probably a very happy customer who has not to manage a week with no fridge.   Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  18. Unit had a noisy spin, gearcase leaking oil. I replaced the gearcase under extended warranty. I also replaced the cam assembly because it was loaded full of oil. Everything is running very smooth now. No Codes showing. I noticed the drive motor seemed hot. Around 126 degrees. Does anyone know if this is normal? I could not find any information on this subject. I eliminated any extra drag that may have occured with a gearcase going bad. The shift mechanism is working normally. Actually the machine is working great, but I have never noticed a motor getting that hot before.  
  19. OK Mom's relatively new (3 yrs old?) Whirlpool Ice maker has decided not to make ice anymore. Did a Site and Google search of the part number on the Forum and came up with nothing...   Read that some Whirlpool ice makers are known to freeze the water line - so I had her turn off the cooling for about 6 hours, then back on  - no love, still no ice.   This is NOT the new-style Whirlpool ice maker that the Head Samurai loves so much - it doesn't have a switch or LCD on it. It lives up in the upper left of the fridge compartment inside a giant slide-out ice bin. Dispenses ice thru the door. This is a freezer drawer on bottom, French doors on Top Fridge model.   Momma needs her ice maker fixed!   THANKS    
  20. Turn on, and it sounds like a blower motor. Drum doesn't turn, no other action.
  21. My Ice dispener auger doesn't turn to dispense Ice. The motor runs ok. The auger drive shaft appers to have retracted and is to short to engage the auger drive gear in the hopper. Is there a fix for this or do I need a new shaft. The plastic bushing on the shaft slides freely in the shaft. Should it not be Fixed in place?
  22. I have a GE Model GSF25KGWA side-by-side refrigerator with a CAN17 (WR30X10044) ice maker.  The ice maker fails to dump ice once it is made.  I have run the manual diagnostic and it will run through its cycle dumping the ice and then refilling the reservoir and freezing, but it will not repeat the cycle on its own after that.  Is this an issue with the ice maker itself or with the motherboard?  I would like to have some idea which is the culprit before I go out and buy a replacement.
  23. Hello everyone,  When I power my Icematic N21s, the timer goes to "Clean", instead of "On", and it has cold water only, but no ice is produced.  Would anyone have an idea what is happening? Thanks in advance
  24. kuic15nlts2

    has anyone run into one of these ice machines freezing the water line between the inlet valve and the reservoir ? takes a couple of days to do it . I'm guessing the line must be to close to the suction line somewhere???  have never run into one doing this before :/  thanks for any ideas !!
  25. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!