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  1. From now on potential electrical issues will be a big red flag. Get into the habit of checking a unit’s frame to a trusted ground before you start working on anything with a power related issue. I went out on this call expecting something to be wrong with the refrigerator and so as usual I start the standard diagnostic process. It was plugged into a standard outlet and not a gfi so I automatically rule out nuisance trips from being the culprit. I opened the door, felt the hot gas lines, listened to the fans, checked the temps in the freezer and the refrigerator, cycled the icemaker, put the unit into defrost and heard the heaters kick on and start sizzling. Everything seemed to be normal and working as expected. At this point I figured a mouse may have gotten into a wire or the icemaker line and I really needed to check the back compartment out anyway so I pulled it out to take a look. Again everything looked normal, nothing unusual. I unplugged the unit, checked for continuity between neutral and l1, ground and l1 and again nothing unusual. I plugged the refrigerator back into the outlet and needed to roll it forward a little so I pushed the bare metal back with my hand forward and in doing so my knee hit the copper line coming out of the wall. This is where I simultaneously found the problem and I took 120 volts straight through the chest, violent shaking the whole bit. It hurt like hell and left me scared to touch the damn thing again, but I went back to work. I checked the outlet and it was wired backwards (hot and neutral reversed) but that's not really that uncommon for a house that's 20+ years old around here. I checked ground to neutral and I got some really big fluctuations in resistance that were sometimes unreadable by my fluke meter so I knew something was going on but not sure exactly what. So I checked ground to the copper pipe. 120 volts. I plugged the refrigerator into a gfi outlet that had a microwave on it and turned off the breaker to the refrigerator and got her in contact with an electrician I know and trust. He went out and a few days later I spoke with the customer again and she told me that the electrician said I was really lucky so I had to call and speak with him about it. I called him and he told me that the ground wire had shorted out to the hot line, energizing everything. I asked him how that was possible without tripping the breaker and he said that the outlet didn't return to ground, that someone had crawled under the house and rigged up the electrical line at some point probably removing the ground and that something chewed the wires shorting the ground and the hot line. The lady said she had no knowledge of it and it must have been done before she bought the house. I'm making the assumption that something had chewed the wire shorting the rigged up ungrounded ground wire to the hot line. I still don't understand completely what happened but I know I got the shit shocked out of me and if I would have had a hand hold on something I may have been killed, but I wasn't thankfully. It still scares me though. This woman was old and frail and if she would have touched the refrigerator and the sink or the microwave anything to a good ground it probably would have killed her. Be careful with electricity. I've been shocked many times but never like that. 120 volts are extremely powerful. We tend to get complacent with it.
  2. Kon'nichiwa!   I have a Maytag Neptune (MAH8700AWW) that recently started throwing the "ND" code which I know means Not Draining. It throws the code, I push the cycle selector, whereupon the code goes away and the machine (seemingly) goes on about it's merry draining ways. On and on and on...But it never goes on to the spin cyle and after a few minutes the familiar "ding, dong" and ND message.   I must mention that it makes draining sounds and it does drain because I pulled the drain hose out of the drain to make sure.   At first I thought it was a bad water pump so I took off the back and did all the necessary rigmarole to remove the pump. Took it off the frame, took it apart, nothing stuck in there. Removed the drain hose that leads from the bottom of the tub to the pump to make sure there warn't no skimpy panties up in there or nuthin'. Nuthin'! Put it all back together, ran an empty spin cycle, it drained just fine. Reloaded wet load, ran rinse and spin cycle, did it! Yay! Success, right? WRONG SUCKA!   Ran the next load and started hearing the all-too-familiar-and-hated "ding, dong" from hell. DRAT! Now, I've seen the ding-dong chime at 16 minutes, 48 minutes and, I think, 33 minutes, but I guess that all just depends on the cycle that was selected. So, took it apart again to see if maybe there was something that was, indeed, stuck in the tub drain hose but no luck.   It seems like there is something electronically wonky that it won't allow it to move on, like it's having emotional issues that it just can't get beyond. "Come on, Neptune, she left ya, it's over, nuthin' you can do about it...MOVE ON, DUDE!" But it won't move on to drain those sad useless feelings. Ahem! Anywho, so, any thoughts from the Jedi Council? Help me, Sa-Mu-Rai, you're my only hope!
  3. 2 weeks ago it wouldn't spin. I replaced the the transmission pulley and bearing kit and it tested ok. It worked fine for about a week and then didn't drain, and apparently burned the motor out. The transmission pulley would turn counter clockwise but not clockwise. I got a new motor and brake rotor. After installing the new brake rotor (the old one's brake lining material was unattached) and reassembling the assembly including the transmission bearing and pulley correctly It will turn clockwise but not counter clockwise. I took the assembly apart again and looked at the lower bearing assembly. It seems ok to me. Now when I tighten down the screws on the brake spring assembly 1/2 way the drum won't turn. I did notice both ends of the brake spring appear to have been worn like it was ground down. Before I reassemble it again I want to fix it. Any ideas?
  4. Hello,   I have a Frigidaire GLD2445RFC2 dishwasher that my 6 year old accidentally fell on the opened door.  I removed the front cover and pulled the DW out slightly to inspect the hinges and cannot see anything that is obviously bent.  I also do not see where the hinge is supposed to make the physical contact to stop the door from going below horizontal to see what might be bent.  The only thing I can see is a formed imprint in the metal hinge that looks like it might be in the right place to stop the hinge on the frame.    Could someone tell / show me where the physical contact point is to stop the door at horizontal so that I can better diagnose the over extension of the DW door?     Thanks! Dennis
  5. Went on this monster built in GE monogram fridge and found the evaporator fan not working.  Opened up the freezer inside top cover in the top back and found the fan not working.  Found a piece of foam insulation had fallen from above and jammed it up so it couldn't turn and it got hot and burnt up.  The fridge had been running hot for 3 or 4 days before I could get by to look at it and the evaporator was all cold and frosty but of coarse the freezer and fresh food were hot.  I replaced the fan and relocated the insulation back where it came from and put everything back together and told them to let me know how it goes.  They called next day and said all is still hot.  I told them to turn it off for 24 hours and try it again, thinking the evap was probably frozen up and not letting air circulate.  They did this and called back saying no improvement.  I pulled a manual for a similar modal number but it is not the same. 31-9117.  Am going back tomorrow to look at it.  I was hoping for a manual for this model.  I have no experience on working on one of these.  Any ideas will be helpful.  I'm thinking I have an air flow issue and also need to check the evaporator which I'm not sure how to get to it.  It's in the top.   Doc    
  6. Hey all,      I have had great success with all of you previously, so I'm hoping the same happens today. I received a service call today for a Frigidaire Side by Side refrigerator, model number FRS6LF7GS4, with complaints of it being warm in both the fresh food and freezer sides. The call was received in the morning and I could not go look at it until later in the day. When I showed up the fridge was operating and cooling as it should, of course. I suspected an intermittent issue with the start relay, so I unhooked the connection and checked the voltage as I turned the temperature controls on and off. It was sending 120 volts only once in awhile, with the majority of the times having no voltage sent at all. On a side note when the controls are turned on, both the evaporator and condensor fans were running, but no voltage going to the start relay. Is this most likely an issue with the temperature control / board or is something else going on here? I appreciate any input all of you gurus have. Thanks in advance.
  7.    Hi. My Whirlpool GB2SHTXTB00 fridge stopped cooling, or at least almost completely stopped cooling. Compressor and condenser fan run quietly and smoothly.   There is no airflow obstruction, no icing on coils, the fridge damper operates normally.   I ran the diagnostics on the Jazz board, and everything passed.  (I'm a little uncertain here.  When I enter program mode, it displays the correct code, 01.  When I entered service mode the last couple of times, it displayed its software version as 1 - 4. But,  I thought  that the first time I entered service mode, it displayed  2 - 5,  but it hasn't done that since, it's always 1 - 4.   So,  is there a way to find out the designation for the correct software for this machine, just to be sure it is in fact 1 - 4 as displayed?  if that's not the correct (or a real) software version, what do I do? Even if that's wrong, would it explain my problem, (no cooling even though the compressor and all other mechanical parts seem to run smoothly?    I also entered the freezer and fridge performance controls in the service mode , and  boosted the freezer and fridge two numbers colder.   No effect, there is still no significant cooling.  (When it first turns on, the airflow in the fridge seems slightly cool, but not cold.  Back wall of freezer (coils are behind it) is not cold).    Does all this mean the sealed system is dead, or at least has lost refrigerant?   If it’s a dead compressor, I doubt it’s worth fixing,  the machine is 8 years old. I can solder  but I gather brazing is required, and I don’t have equipment for that, torches, gauges, pump, nitrogen storage etc. (even if I had time to become familiar with all those).   Is it possible this system simply needs a refrigerant charge? Is that done?  Anyone know what that would cost?  (Thanks in advance for any advice.  Sorry if there is too much detail, my first time on this forum.) 
  8. im having issues on multiple kenmore 795. bottom mounts. the issue i get is related to ER FF and ER IF errors. what the customer typically states is that the freezer section intermittently stops cooling they get an ER FF or ER IF  then a few days later the freezer starts working again. ive had about 4 different bottom mounts do this. i typically go out close door switch and check fan op. usually it wont work so i replace PCB and check to see if ice fan has the heater kit on it. on the most annoying one i have replaced the  Freezer fan twice  and pcb and evap cover after observing unit for an 45m it finally decided to run they fan. . ive called our tech support and they always have me check voltage im usually not recieving feedback from fan and they say to replace pcb. currently im chasing the idea that either LG has programmed their new boards to only run the fan when evap is cold.or maybe the dft sensor is tied into the feed back circuit on the fan motor and only engages motor when the evap is cold. but at this point im mentally shot and can no longer find a logical solution. any help is welcomed thanks
  9. The customer complaint is that there is no heat, when i checked for heat by opening the door prior to the machine running i couldn't feel any heat, i check for 240 volts and i got a reading of 213 VAC. The machine is run on a 240 circuit (not 208). I thought that may be the problem however when i take the drum out and bypass the belt break switch only the inner coil comes on (the bigger of the two) drawing roughly 9 amps. On the schematics he only item seperating L1 from both elements is the control intake thermostat so i have my suspicions. the wierd problem is with the timer in the exact same position i put the drum and door back on, start the dryer and boom no heat what so ever; 4.5 amps (motor). So my main question is, is the lack of necessary voltage the cause of only the inner coil and the dryer not heating with the drum in, if so can someone explain why?! Furthermore i checked for blockages in the vent, blower and disconnected the vent so its not the safety therm. 
  10. I looked at this machine today. The complaint was that one load would come out dry and the next load would have to spin 3 or 4 times. Otherwise the machine is clean and in excellent condition. It spins with very little vibration. I ran 2 loads without incident.    Ideas?   Thanks.  
  11. This unit heats up one time, reaches 153 degrees and cycles off. Then does not cycle on again. Changed the cycling t-stat, with no change. Heater, hi-limit t-stat, both test good. Timed dry, regular no difference. What am I missing?
  12. Have a customer that claims the this washer intermittently overflows.  This washer has a separate Pressure switch which I check out ok and the pressure hose does not have any leaks. While on site I tested the small medium and large load fills and they all worked fine.  The water valves are tested and do not leak. Has any one had a similar problem and found the component which may be causing this.   thanks voipman
  13. The "on indicator" light stays on when everything is off.  What is the problem?  I am knowledgeable in testing ac and dc circuitry with VOM's.  Any help is appreciated.  Where do I look and what do I look for?    

    This machine has been a real headache... the short water harness with an attached relay and the primary water valve were replaced because they were bad. I don't know what caused the relay to go bad but the valve had a crack in the body and was leaking! Now the water dispenser is not dispensing water. Can anyone tell me where to look next???  Pleaase tell me it's not the control board... Thanks for your time
  15. In warranty, less than a year old . Got dryer to run in air fluff.......switched temp to heat and as soon as i heard the coils the unit shut down. Now all i get is a5 error and unit will not start. error code is a5(replace control board). replaced control board. didnt work .There is 2 interface boards..anyone seen this before?
  16. Quiet Series 200 (quietseries) Maytag.  My son and his new wife have no dishwasher (except each other) at this time.  It worked fine for me until my son got married and moved in.  Now they said it will not start.  I went over there 3 weeks ago, hit the cycle to heavy duty, hit the start button and boom! worked great for me.  A couple of days later they said "it will not come on".  So today I finally got over there and sure enough all the lights work, the buttons cycle through all the different features but when you hit "start" nothing happens.  I have tried everything with the control panel and nothing.  I reset the power, held the "heated dry" button down for 5 seconds etc. and still no start.  Any ideas to troubleshoot for a "shade tree" appliance guy?  If I have to buy $150 board I might just replace the whole dishwasher... thanks all.  MDBH945AWW1
  17. My KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDK02CRBS4 touchpad has become unresponsive - press a button and no lights, Start doesn't work. The Rinse cycle and the Heat Dry buttons would respond (light up when pushed) but as of yesterday they too have stopped lighting and the touchpad is now completely unresponsive.   Over the past few months this machine has intermittently become unresponsive (all or some buttons stop working)  and then started working again after a day or 2 but it apppears it has finally died once and for all.   The detergent dispenser also fails to open if that symptom might be related? That stopped working about 5 months ago.   So, I have been looking up all the possible parts that could be involved - touchpad overlay part #8573046, main electronic control board part #W10084141, ribbon connector part #8531877, interconnect board part #8531873 and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed - is there any way to test my current components to see if I can narrow it down instead of ordering every part? I have opened the dishwasher up and looked over the boards and resettled the cables but none of the parts show any obvious signs of damage.   The main control board and the ribbon connector were replaced about 2 years ago when roaches had nested on it and burned out the board. I can't remember if the touchpad was also replaced at that time.   Thank you!
  18. you set the cycle to wash (any selection) and chose cold water and rinse, push start and it begins to fill and then after 30 seconds it beeps and flashes F1 error code and stops. you can restart several times after it keeps doing this same routine and eventually it will work and seems to complete entire wash. However have noticed if i put it on hot wash this wont happen it never shuts off just works as it should. tried warm setting and it works properly maybe 2 out of3 times without F1 and restart routine. Dont know if problem is with board or water fill related. when filling with cold it seems to be filling fine valve opens and water comes in what sounds to be about as fast as when you use hot and it fills. any ideas? thanks
  19. I got called out on this late last Friday. The complaint was that it stops in agitate,intermittently. Ran the machine and never had a problem. Checked all the normal stuff, agitator, lid switch, connection to the lid switch, coupling. Everything looked good. Could not duplicate the problem. I suspect a timer contact with a high resistance. Did not check it as time was getting late. I suspect I will be going back. Any ideas are appreciated.
  20. One Complaint is that machine runs out  of balance sometimes.  Main complaint is washer spins too fast??    Ever hear of such a thing?    A good client I will visit tomorrow at noon.
  21. My Kenmore Elite Model 11024942300 washer agitates during the spin cycle. Clothes get stuck in the agitator & it stops spinning. The problem caused the coupler to crack, and I already replaced that. How can I test to see if it's the transmission, clutch or brake?   I can wash small loads of clothes if I pull out the agitator right after the wash cycle (I have the screw out so I just lift it out), which is helpful as my 6yr old is sick and in vomit mode. But please help so I can order the right part I need... thanks!
  22. I've been doing a lot of research and trying to narrow down the cause of this problem: First, it is a Whirlpool Estate Direct Drive washer with a ONE PIECE agitator (so NO DOGS to replace). This one piece agitator must not be very common because the only advice I ever see concerning weak agitation is to replace the dogs, which only exist on two piece this is obviously not a solution for my machine. The first problem we noticed was that our clothes were no longer getting rinsed well and we had to run extra rinse cycles to get the soap out. We noticed that the clothes were not rolling in the basket as they should, but more like jiggling in place. We do not overload. This happens with small loads. So I'm guessing that this is what is called “weak agitation”. Now we have another problem. The clothes are wet after the spin cycle. They are sitting in the bottom of the basket, not spun up against the side of the basket as they should be. The water drains out fine and there is no water sitting anywhere or dripping into the basket after the spin. Again, this happens with small loads, not just large loads. This is also sporadic and inconsistent. I can run the same load (never take it out of the washer) several times and sometimes it will be soaking wet, sometimes not as much, but always much wetter than it should be under normal operating conditions. What I know so far: I ran through an entire cycle with just water and observed everything. I peeked under the lid with a flashlight and watched without tripping the lid switch. It looked like it was agitating back and forth correctly (no clothes, just water). The cycles worked as they should. The water drains fine and the pump is new. During spin, the tub was spinning and seemed to spin faster at the end of the cycle just fine (empty of course). The motor and timer seem to be working just fine. The lid switch has always worked exactly as it's designed. If I lift the lid, I can see the spin come to a stop. If I close it, I hear the click and the machine begins to run again. I don't hear any unusual noises. I don't hear any banging indicative of a worn drive block. There are no burning smells. There is no oil or black dust under the machine. The machine seemed to run fine empty, but fails to agitate and spin correctly as soon as you put a small load of clothes in. I'm narrowing it down to the following and trying to make sure I get all potential parts ordered before we tear into this thing so I can hopefully fix it at the same time: 1. Clutch Assembly – if it's worn, would it cause weak agitation and no spin when clothes are causing weight in the basket? 2. Motor Coupler – I looked under the machine and it doesn't look broken, but I can't see if the hole is rounded out causing it to slip and not grab the transmission shaft. 3. Drive Block – I don't have any noise, so I doubt this, but I can return it. It is my understanding that if the 3 items above are fine and not the cause of the problem, then the cause is the gearcase/transmission and the only way to find out is to eliminate the above parts as potential problems. Any advice, thoughts? Am I missing something?
  23. This roper quit working with a full load of water after the agitate cycle.   When I checked it motor hummed.   1st checked receptical, 120vac.  2nd check  pump for obstruction, none.  spun motor shaft & away it goes,  Got a 189-227 mfd capacitor in pocket slap it in.  No dice motor hum runs when shaft spun.   3rd Test, power cord at connector - good.  Timer connections very difficult to access so I go to capacitor leads, take off leads & test across leads   34vac.   Nect go to motor I have 90 vac there.   So I think timer.  Get one next day  today.  Install Still have humming motor.  Test capacitor leads,  this time 90 vac.   I look at wash shed recepticle & wiring.  South texas wiring Runs thru trees 100 foot from main house.   So I suspect voltage drop in recepticle.  Put my meter leads in bottom outlet,  washer is plugged into top.   120vac at meter.  Voltage drops down to 109 when timer is energised.  Goes back up to 117 when motor is spun.   Customer claims he smelt motor burning when machine conked out yesterday.  Wants me to put in new motor says he will pay.   My gut felling is power supply.  Motor did start getting hot & started to smell as I let it agitate but I still think I have to much resistance in the line to recepticle to allow the full current to flow.   Show me my ignorance or give me a thumbs up  or tell me I don't know what i am doing & help correct my ways.  
  24. From the album appliance pics parts

    This plug looks like the wire is good and connected, its not. there are basically four push in knife type connectors that ars suppose to strip the wire and make the connection. often it cuts the wire and eventually breaks. i reused it once, had it come back in a month, used regular insulated terminals to replace it.
  25. Hi folks,   New to the forum.  I'm not a very accomplished appliance repairperson, but I always like to try fixing things myself.  Here's my plea for help.  I was having problems with my Asko washer, model 10505.  First, a load was really wet at the end of the cycle.  I checked the coin/lint trap and cleared out some stuff, ran the load again and found that the washer was not agitating or spinning.  I could hear the motor, but no joy on the drum turning.  Checked the belt (fine) and, after researching on this site, decided I should try replacing the brushes.  I ordered some, they were not a perfect match, but after some filing I was able to line them up with the mounting holes and got it secured.  I put the washer back together and ran a medium load.  The drum turned and agitated (the brushes made a lot of noise, but I figured this would get better after a few loads.)  My real concern is that the washer won't spin very fast at all on the spin cycle.  Any suggestions?