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  1. My 13-year old Asko dishwasher (D1776) is giving me the "F1" code, which means trouble heating.  It's otherwise in great shape, so I thought I might grab a replacement heating element (part #8057077) as the easiest part to replace, but I have looked all over the internet and the only one I can find is used, in terrible shape, overpriced, and in Australia (I'm in the US). Is this something dishwasher manufacturers do - not produce enough replacement parts so that when parts break you have to buy a new appliance? Thanks, Chris  
  2. Asko Dishwasher - Heating Fault

    My several-years-old Asko D1776 dishwasher is flashing an "F1" error which appears to be a "water heating fault", which might be the heating element, might be the thermostat, and might be the control board. Is there a way to determine where the problem is, and then order the correct part, or should I just start ordering parts willy-nilly and replacing them until it gets better? Thanks! Chris  
  3. I'm working on a Whirlpool range that is having trouble getting up to temperature. It has a timed preheat feature but takes 3x the allotted 5 minutes to preheat. Both the broil and bake elements checked good on a resistance and voltage test. The oven sensor also checked good at various temperatures in terms of necessary resistance values. My main question in this post is, does the temp sensor only indicate when the oven is up to set temperature or does the control check multiple times to determine how much time is left to preheat? Also the clock does have a re-calibration feature but has already been done less than a year ago. Thanks.
  4. I just installed a new bearing to fix my squeaking dryer. The sound is gone but now the dryer doesn't heat (it still spins). It's never had any problems heating before so I assume I must have broken something in the course of the repair--I'm very new at this. How should I go about troubleshooting this? Also, could you tell me where the thermal fuse is so I can test it? None of the videos I've seen are helpful for this particular model and I can't find a schematic.   Thank you! I'm going nuts...
  5. Every once in awhile this MW oven doesn't heat.  According to the client it is totally random.  I'm thinking maybe a relay or a loose connection.  Anyone ever run across something like this.   thanks   Doc
  6. This unit heats up one time, reaches 153 degrees and cycles off. Then does not cycle on again. Changed the cycling t-stat, with no change. Heater, hi-limit t-stat, both test good. Timed dry, regular no difference. What am I missing?
  7. Wife said she heard a pop in the dryer. Brand new element ready to go to work.
  8. Hi guys! Anybody know something about how to install aluminum radiators instead cast iron? Why they are not popular when in Europe everybody use aluminum radiators? What's the catch?
  9. I have had this oven for over 5+ years, all of a sudden neither heating elements will go on. I thought it might be the circuit breaker or electric circuit to the oven itself, but can not figure it out. All other features appear to be working, fans, lights, control panel, etc.. Just no heat or broil from either unit... Am I overlooking something simple, or do I need a service tech to handle it?
  10. Have a Samsung dryer that's a few years old, Model No. DV218AEB.   After years of trouble-free service, the dryer no longer heated up, so I took the dryer apart and checked for blockages, tested everything with a multimeter for continuity and shorts, and found the thermostat cut-off at the heater had blown. Everything else tested within spec and there were no shorts or any visually obvious issues.   Replaced the thermostat cut-off with a new one (Samsung Part No. Part number: DC47-00016A ) and put it back together. Dryer heated up fine the first time it was turned on and run for a minute, but then apparently blew the thermal cut-off immediately the second time it was turned on, since it no longer blew hot air again.   I took the dryer apart again and replaced the high-limit thermostat (Samsung Part No. Part number: DC47-00018A ) at the heating element even though the original tested good. Also replaced the now-blown second thermostat cut-off with another new one. Put the dryer back together, again, worked fine when turned on and run the first time, heated properly, but blew cool air the second time I turned it on. Thermostat cut-off blew again.   Just throwing this out there to get any ideas on what to check or personal experiences on what causes dryers to blow thermal cut-offs like this so I don't keep throwing parts at it. I'm at a loss since there is nothing obvious and looking up the common causes online has only revealed obvious things such as blocked vents or the high-limit thermostat that has already been replaced with the above results.   There is NO blockage anywhere, dryer is extremely clean and there was almost no lint buildup at all, the vent system goes straight out an unrestricted 4-inch pipe.   I've taken apart the element assembly, the element looks great, has the correct ~10 ohms reading at room temp, and is not touching the housing or any other metal when assembled (verified with multimeter). The thermistor reads the correct ~10K ohms at room temp, and goes to ~7K ohms when warmed and about ~15K ohms when cool. The second thermostat cut-off (right after the blower, next to the thermistor) has not blown and shows continuity.   The motor runs fine and is getting 120V, and the heater relay seems to be working and getting 240V since the element heats up, at least once the dryer is first started up after replacing the thermal cut-off. I've even checked the centrifugal switch at the motor, and while it doesn't read as the exact 2.88 ohms between pin 3 and 4 or the 3.5 ohms between pin 4 and 5 that the troubleshooting manual calls for, it does read at least 2.5 ohms and goes close to 2.8/3.2 so I'm pretty sure the switch isn't causing it either.   There are no error displays or diagnostic codes. Test mode doesn't reveal anything since the dryer runs fine otherwise, just has blown two thermal cut-offs with no obvious cause.   At this point I'm guessing it's the main PCB (Samsung Part No. Part number: DC92-00160A ) or just another short somewhere in the circuit since there's nothing else I can come up with based on the troubleshooting and online research I've done so far. Sure don't want to spend the $$$ only to find out it's not the PCB like a few others with this exact same model have done.   Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.
  11. Hotpoint RB787WB1WW electric range Part ordered: WB27X10311   The wiring layout for the new part doesn't match the wiring for the existing part, but everywhere I've researched says this is the part I need, and even the instructions say the wires might not match. Can someone help me out with what wires go where?   A picture of the existing part: https://www.dropbox.com/s/sldvnughhx9196o/IMAG0233.jpg   A picture of the new part: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wd470oidg3u5lc5/239445-3-M-GE-WB27X10311-Electronic-Clock-Control.jpg   Thanks!    - Bill   Measure with a micrometer. Mark with a crayon. Cut with an ax.
  12. Hi guys i have a stupor. I have a freestanding whirlpool gold electric oven that turns on and clicks but not heat on the bake or broil element. Any hints is appreciated.
  13. May I have a service  manual for this unit WMH1163XVS-0.    Everything works according to client but it does not heat.   Thank you again for everything.   Patricio
  14. Version

    10 downloads

    Whirlpool and Inglis Plastic Tall-Tub Dishwasher Heater Rework R17365 Multiple models with serial number ranges. PUB K8178502A
  15. File Name: Whirlpool and Inglis Plastic Tall-Tub Dishwasher Heater Rework R17365 File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 18 Dec 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Whirlpool and Inglis Plastic Tall-Tub Dishwasher Heater Rework R17365 Multiple models with serial number ranges. PUB K8178502A Click here to download this file
  16. I need a manual for this range in order to see how to access burner elements
  17. Hi Samurais, I have an kitchenaid model# KEMS308SSS00.The oven doesnt broil.I checked the element and it is open so I think that should solve that problem.The microwave for this unit doesnt heat.If you run it it starts and runs for a bit then displays ''F1 E5''.It says replce micro.I think it means the inverter control.Will this repair this unit does anyone know Thank you very much, SAMANERA
  18. Sensei Samurais -  Need the wisdom of the masters please.   Problem: heating element somehow was cut/severed all the way through (looks like something in the bottom rack must have been sticking downward beyond the rack's bottom).  The heating/drying obviously do not work, but i thought it might be a door switch/latch (L1?) problem (see #2).  This went on for a week before I took a serious look and water was POURING out of the hole that connects the heating element from the inside the tub to the outside of the tub.  Needless to say, the electrical connection is oxidized and needs to be replaced.  (please see photos of inside and outside tub).   Question(s): 1)  What parts do I need for this repair? 2) This dishwasher is also making the "every 5 second click" sound, I have replaced both circuit boards.  Could the broken heating element be related to MY clicking issue? 3) any other tidbits of samurai wisdom would be greatly appreciated.   Domo domo, ZT
  19. Customer has told me this Microwave runs for about 15 seconds then gives f9 error code and doesn't heat at all during the 15 seconds.   I have the service manual. I know it's most likely 1 of the following: Loose connection, door switch, inverter module, relay 2 on pcb, Magnetron.   I can handle a loose connection, capacitors, bleeder resistor, and switches, but, I want to get this done the first trip if possible`so I'm leaning toward I should take a magnetron also. The unit is about 7 years old.   I'm hoping someone on here might be able to point me toward the most likely part given the symtoms. From my experience Magnetrons seem to be the most common failure with other brands.   I often see on here someone saying, that model is bad for this or that part to failing. Thoughts?
  20. EB 846-610

    Stepping into another world on this one Monday. Could use a sevice manual or tech sheet or both to prep. Thanks. A Gaggenau.
  21. I have a duet dryer model wed9400sw0 that is getting 120 volts to the heating element at all times when running even in air fluff. It had an f25 error in the service mode. I checked the outlet themisitor and it was at like 35 k ohms but it was still warm so that seems ok. I am leaning towards replacing the machine control electronics and outlet themisistor just to be safe. Just looking for a second opinion. Thanks Michael
  22. I have a 30 Gallon Richmond Water Heater, Model Number 8MV30-2, Upper and lower wattage listed at 4500/3380 each. It was typically enough water to provide two showers before it ran out. About 3 months ago (yes I have been lazy in dealing with the issue) it started only giving enough water for about one shower. I eyeballed the top and bottom element from the outside and neither has the appearance of being burned out. To "rectify" the situation, I cranked up the heat, it works, kinda. I live in an apartment building where the maintenance guy has equal or less skill with this than I do, and the landlady is quite cheap, so replacing it would be like pulling teeth with no anathestic. Can anyone give me pointers on how to test each of the elements? I plan to turn off the power next week and drain it, I figure it would be a good time to pull each of the elements to inspect and test them. Thanks in advance for any help! D
  23. The dryer no longer spins or heats up. Could it be gas solenoid coils or the Igniter? Anything else to check? Thanks
  24. Maytag dryer not heating up. runs but wont heat. its a model# MDE7057AYW and serial # 28076929YD? do these have the heater coil at back end of drum? do u know what the reistance should be at the element? any schematics or dissassemble instructions to open up dryer would be great,.
  25. The lower heating element on our GE electric oven, JBP26G V3AD, failed spectacularly last week (it seems the giant sparkler effect is not uncommon when the heating element is failing). I ordered the replacement element but screwed up rewiring it because I did not check the tech sheet/wiring diagram. (For those of you looking for the diagram it is likely attached to the body of the stove and hidden by the drawer - you have to remove the drawer to find it). The wiring of this heating element needs to be clarified because there is misinformation (at some other sites!) or lack of information about it. The lower heating element has 3 wires connecting to it. Two of the wires are black, one is yellow. The two black wires attach to one terminal of the element, the yellow wire attaches to the other terminal. (The upper heating element has only two black wires attaching to it, one for each terminal). According to the wiring diagram, this information on the wiring of the element applies to model numbers that start with JBP21G, JBP21S, JBP24G, JBP25G, JBP26G, JBP26W, JBP26A, JBP45G, JBP45W, JBP45A, JBP46G, and JBP47G. So I miswired the lower heating element, plugged the unit in, turned the oven on, and almost immediately there was a flash and a loud pop from the control panel. The circuit breaker tripped, too. I rewired the heating element properly, but now it is not heating up when the oven is turned on. The upper heating element works, as do the burners (well, I tested 2 of the 4 and they both worked). Also, some of clock functionality is screwed up - you can't change the time, for example. Any ideas about what happened and what part or parts need testing/replacing? I haven't tested the lower heating element for continuity yet. Also, I will scan in and upload the wiring diagram in a few days when I have access to a scanner. This might help the diagnosis, and there seem to be a number of people looking for the diagram online but without success (not available from GE, for example). Thanks.