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  1. GE PSB42 & PSB48 Models Repair Kit for Fresh Food Evaporator Leaks WR85X10088 View File No PUB number   Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 02/13/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  2. Version 1.0.0


    No PUB number  
  3. Hello. I have a GE dryer model DDE7209RALWW, which I've had for 22 years. It is having a problem, and I was trying to decide whether to fix it or replace it. I called a repairman to ask some questions, but haven't had him come yet.  Someone in another thread said that it is one of the best dryers ever made, so I'd like to fix it instead of getting a new dryer. I don't know anything about fixing appliances, but my husband might try if we can get some help. Or at least to know whether to call the repairman or try it ourselves.  The dryer has been repaired twice for fairly inexpensive problems, but unfortunately I don't remember what was done. The problem now: I pressed the start button, but it didn't start running at first. It made a long buzzing noise for about 4 seconds and then started, but it sounded noisy as it ran.  I decided to let it run and see what happened. It did make some noises, but dried the clothes. I tried to start it again to see what would happen, and it made the drawn-out buzzing sound again but wouldn't start turning. Then I pushed the button again, and it won't do anything.  Can you tell what might be wrong? Thank you!  
  4. By the end of this month, I need to purchase a new 5 cu ft freezer that I can pick up and fit inside my friend's car.   I'm looking to purchase an Insignia™ - 5.0 Cu. Ft. Chest Freezer - White ($169.99) from Best Buy. Is it a good idea to buy their 5-Year Standard Geek Squad Protection Plan for $99.99? They would even reimburse me up to $200 for food loss if an awful occurrence were to spoil everything.   Or, should I take my chances and purchase one of the following: IGLOO 5.2 cu. ft. Chest Freezer ($150) - Home Depot Magic Chef 5.2 cu. ft. Chest Freezer ($169) - Home Depot Idylis 5-cu ft Chest Freezer ($148) - Lowe's   I'd get just a little bit more cubic feet and the Idylis one is currently the cheapest. Albeit, according to my research, these products tend to fail more than the better or more major brands such as Amana and GE. Neither Home Depot nor Lowe's will cover food loss caused by Igloo and Magic Chef freezers unfortunately. If I were to purchase one of the three freezers listed from Home Depot or Lowe's, they would only offer me a replacement-only plan for up to 2 years maximum after the manufacturer's warranty stops.   Lastly, the GE 5-cu ft Chest Freezer costs $199 at Home Depot (Delivery only - $59.99 fee) whereas it's $219 (Pickup is offered, no fees) at Lowe's. With this product, Lowe's offers a 5-yr Extended Protection Plan for $99.97 (along with up to $250 for food reimbursement). This freezer is supposed to be a lot better than any of the ones listed.   Here are my main concerns: Wasting money on an extended warranty for a superior product that won't break down at all within 5-6 years of warranty coverage Wasting money on delivery fees Buying a troublesome product with minimal warranty coverage Having all of my non-covered food spoil Freezer breaks after the warranty's over The Idylis 5-cu ft Chest Freezer is available now in countless Lowe's locations and I can pick it up at the store at anytime, but I'll have to wait until the end of December if I want to get any of the other freezers. I didn't even go food shopping yet because I want to get everything in one-shot right after purchasing the freezer.     Due to my indecisive nature, I suck at making these kinds of crucial decisions on my own. What do you think I should do?! 
  5. It's taking forever for it to get cold!   My last freezer had a similar issue and it was due to lack of Freon (or refrigerant). Many speculated that it was due to an internal leak.    I couldn't risk all of my food going bad to a possible future and sudden breakdown, so I needed to return it ASAP.   After persistently contacting the store that sells these used freezers over the course of days, they finally replace it today.   And instead of this freezer using Freon gas, it uses something called R134A. This upright freezer can store up to 5.3 Oz. (149 Grams) of it.       My main concern now is that it has been 3 hours since it was delivered and it's not freezing cold yet!!    I plugged it in and it's not cold or freezing temperature!! The store staff said to wait for at least an hour after plugging it in for better results, but I don't see any better results!!   I really, really hope there isn't a leak in this one too! It seems like it may be low on refrigerant, such is a bad sign...     Here are some pictures of this product:   Here is the video to hear want the freezer sounds like:  
  6. Hello. Recently, I purchased a refurbished freezer. The product is under temporary warranty for at least the next 30 days.   From the time they delivered the freezer up until now, it was extremely warm and had zero coolness. It had no frost and wasn't freezing at all.   I complained to them over the phone for the last 2 days.   Before the product left the store, all of the staff said, "but it was working beautifully and very frío" and that they "put plenty of Freon in it." When the product came to my house it wasn't working properly.   I called yesterday morning and they said they'll send someone out to fix it. A few hours later that day, no one showed up. So I called again and they said, "We'll just get a new one for you."    Earlier today, the store manager told me, "the freezer doesn't NEED an exchange right now." Later today, he came to load the Freon into the compressor. He said his "didn't put enough Freon in it." He said Freon can "last for YEARS and YEARS" and he'll only exchange it if it stops working. I'm not 100% comfortable with this broken-on-arrival product. I'm pretty sure that whether or not it's working that I can still exchange this for another freezer. The other freezer they have is an upright freezer, which I prefer to have. They are a "no refund, exchange only" kind of store. I'm currently stuck with an Amana-brand 7.0 cu ft chest freezer. The model number is C101DW.    This almost perfectly describes my situation (I'm not 100% sure about the leak though):   Does adding Freon, a refrigerant/coolant, to a freezer indicate that there is an undiagnosed issue with the appliance? The guy that was loading it with Freon said it's supposed to have 7 ounces of Freon ideally.    Here are the pictures of my freezer:   He said there is a leak ONLY if the freezer is over 0 degrees and if it makes certain sound. Currently, the freezer temperature is under 0 degrees according.   Also, I noticed that the access panel is missing. Without this, the compressor can easily be viewed and perhaps exposed.   Sorry if this post is too long. Could someone please confirm if the information they provided to me is accurate?
  7. Hello all.      Am having a bear of a time trying to find a simple part (the door open key i.e. latch lever) for a Sharp "steamwave" AX1100 (microwave grill steam countertop combo).    While there are many other similar items for other manufacturers, the 10-12 appliance parts websites i checked don't have them for this model nor does amazon or ebay... with the exception of a few sites in the UK who seem to be out of stock and or can't ship to the states.     It seems like Sharp is not so popular or commonplace when it comes to kitchen appliances at least not here in the US. Maybe there is another model that is compatible that the part would work from. I read that Dacor microwaves are made from Sharp parts though that is not verifiable; the other half is maybe am looking in the wrong places.    Was able to find an exploded view of the door panel and it shows the part is a LANGTA525WRPZ.   Sharp insists we take the unit in to a service center to get it fixed for no less than $100 even though it's probably a $5 part and this thing's a beast at 50+ pounds (either that or i am getting weaker with age... or both).    Will try to either engineer a repair of the part (the plastic peg that pushes the latch up broke off) or just pony up the dough to take it in.    Unless someone knows where on this green & blue rock to find a part!        Paul
  8. My dryer was working fine until I opened the door one day and the light randomly burst without me touching it. The inside of the bulb exploded. It now has no power at all, I push the start button and nothing happens. I flipped the circuit breaker switch and that didn't help. I also bought and installed a new thermal fuse and that didn't help either. What should I try now?
  9. Dear Kind Appliantologists:    I have a Dacor ERD30S Duel fuel range.  I bought it 3 years ago and one of your helpful followers from Hickory NC converted it to propane.  We had the main board repaired by the helpful folks at out of Texas.  SInce the unit was torn apart, decided to replace the touchpad membrane at the same time.   It was purchased new from  Well after 3 short years the new membrane has thrown a F0 failure which appears to mean I need to replace it again, as the cancel/stop button is malfunctioning.  Well, this part is NLA.  I cannot find where this is a repairable/rebuildable item.  Anyone here know who might be a resource?  I have been able to reset the board (for now) but I'm certain this will come up again.  I hate to know I lose all of this wonderful hunk of cooking hardware because of a single part NLA.  Any suggestions anyone has would be appreciated.  Thank you.  Andrew Sugg Durham NC
  10. Appliance Magic
  11. An inquisitive year old pushed in the power button which is permanently stuck in the off position.  Using the on/off toggle switch at top of fridge was working as an alternate until (another inquisitive 6 year old!) put it out of commission where it will not turn on at all.   Any help appreciated.  On another forum back in 2006, SheldonTV had indicated familiarity with the unit...   Thanks in advance. (Six-year olds need not reply!)
  12. A few things to check to assure that your Sub Zero ref is free from any problems (because if there are any, then be sure you find a reliable repair man as soon as possible!)   - condenser coils and if cleans well - doors and hinges for deterioration - check the motor for any wear and if it's running smoothly - defrost systems - draining systems - look for any water leaks - ice makers for any deterioration   Your sub zero would usually warn you about the probable problems you would be facing. For example, the "clean condenser" light will shine. If you have actually been delaying repairs or maintenance, then there would be a huge chance you would see this soon. And if you do, always assure you find professional assistance as soon as possible to protect your ref.  
  13. I have a Maytag MDB9150AWW, now owned by Whirlpool, and haven't been able to get service manual to repair the machine, I suspect a sensor, or whatever the sensor controls.  About three years ago, a lightning surge hit my main board, and all the machine would do is flash odd leds, maybe probably a code.  I removed the main board and tried to replace burnt parts, and circuit traces, but no go.   I then bought a mainboard or rebuilt one, can't recall which, and put that in.  The machine then generated simple codes, for which I could find nothing online.  Thinking I might call in a repair tech, I replaced the old main board, and after discovering Maytag went belly up, and the cost, I decided I would have to fix it myself.  Whirlpool would not sell me a service manual without a 900/yr membership fee to access their database, so that was out. I can put the new main board back into the machine, and get service codes, if anyone thinks I might find help in diagnosing the problem in this forum.  I've been repairing my own appliances and my kids appliances for 40 years and have a decent background in electronics; plus I'm a computer guru.  So, with some information, any at all really, I could get this fixed.  I loathe the thought of uninstalling the unit from under the machine due to the way the floor was built, I'm no carpenter, though I can work a bit with wood and floors, it was a pain when the machine was installed at the time of purchase.  I was really upset when I discovered, and I don't recall how I let it happen, the installers didn't put a surge protector on the power cord! (argggh)  That would have saved a world of hurt, maybe... it was a close strike, I lost several small devices mostly phones (not my computers, thank goodness).     That pretty much it, the rest is ramble... So, that's where I'm at, and my wife would sure like to have it back after sitting there for three years.  Considering I've repaired everything else; she's been amazingly patient and of course I help with the dishes.  But, the Maytag is stainless steel and I paid a pretty penny for it, and I hate that the company died after being there my whole life, and I was left stranded with no help.  I guess the Maytag repair man died of a heart attack from so much sitting around. (sigh). BTW, the main board looked like it was made in the 60's with a few added modern chips.  Looked like it was soldered by a high schooler, and the replacement doesn't look much better... better solder joins.  For such a fancy machine, it looks out of place.  Still a little humidity didn't phase those old monster circuits much, perhaps it was by design.    Any help is much appreciated.
  14. Kitchenaid Bottom Mount Kfis29pbms00 Tomorrow I am going to a Kitchenaid bottom mount that is giving me some wonky symptoms. I put it in diagnostics and it showed nothing on the thermistor service test. No open, no closed nothing. Just a red replace filter light. Fan stayed on throughout entire diagnostic tests. The variable speed Compressor didn't ramp up speed. It stayed the same speed throughout the test. The ice and water Dispenser are not working. The Led light inside on crisper drawer not on. Once I took it out of diagnostics the compressor and fan stayed off. The control board section is a lovely conglomeration of boards. The schematic indicated that the symptoms came from the control circuit board located under the top power supply board. Did I properly diagnose this issue? What are your thoughts? The service manual is located here Control Board Conglomerate and Schematic pic Schematic
  15. I am looking for a manual or tips on how to open up the dryer on top.    How is the drum removed/exposed?
  16. My dryer timer has gone out and the part is no longer being made.  I currently have it set to on timed cycle and the motor unplugged so it doesn't change the current setting since it has a door switch to turn it off and a start button to start it up it is currently working, but I work for an industrial automation company and would like to replace the timer with a touch screen and PLC (pet project).  I can figure out the function of the timer, but if I could find a schematic it would make my job a whole lot easier.    I have searched online and can't find anything, but I am thinking that someone may have an old repair manual laying around that they could scan the diagram from and send to me.  Any assistance you could offer would be greatly appreciated.   Damien Silveira  
  17. I have a Kitchenaid KSRT25CR side-by-side refridgerator with what sounds like a loud bad fan bearing noise coming from underneith the refridg.  Does anyone know how to get at the fan to see if it is bad, or even to replace it?  I can't find any service manuals for this refridg anywhere.
  18. Does anyone have a service manual for Ge microwave Model # JVM1750DM1WW? I searched the downloads and nothing came back.   Sorry for double post. While editing the topic, I pressed something that posted it before I was done & I don't see how to delete the topic. Many apologies.
  19. I am a DIY 28 year old male in Mesa, Arizona.  Never worked much on appliances though.  I now humble myself before the professionals.   My KitchenAid (Model KFIS25XVMS9) refrigerator is not making ice.   The situation:  I hear it a few times an hour swinging around (actually it sounds like it swings too often, maybe once every 5 minutes), so I assume it is running through its cycle.  What I do not hear is the sound of water filling the mold like I used to.  Before it completely stopped making ice, the cubes seem to be getting smaller and smaller over the past 6 months or so.    I'm not sure if this is related or not, but the temperature alarm went off for a couple days intermittently for both the fridge saying it was too warm (got up to 55 degrees as read on the front display).  This freaked me out for a while because it seem to come out of nowhere.  I cleaned the coils and unplugged the fridge, and the next day it came back on again.  It seemed to regain its temperature (no alarm sounding) since it has not gone off for the last two weeks (fingers crossed).  I have a two year old, and I'm thinking he just kept opening the fridge too much.   What I have tried already: -Cleaned the coils (they were not very dirty) -Straighten the water hose (There is no RO water system) -Turned the ice maker on and off (I left it off once for about 4 days and then turned it on, it made small cubes for a week or so then stopped again) -Unplugged the fridge (only for about half an hour to see if it would reset anything)   My thoughts: I don't think it is water pressure -- but it I have not eliminated it yet.  The water to the front seems to have plenty of pressure.  I changed the filter and I am not positive it ever made ice after that though.  I am fairly positive that it is the right filter. Water valve failure?  Would the front be working still? Should it be hearing the ice maker activity this often?   My questions: Is it possible I got a bad filter or installed it wrong?   If it was a bad filter or installed wrong, how could the water to the front still seem normal? What do professionals use to measure temperature?  I have a infrared pistol style thermometer, it seems to measure higher than what I would think.  for example, the front display for freezer is set to 0 degrees, but the thermometer measures 11 in some areas.  Is this normal or abnormal?   I provided and asked quite a bit of info.  Sorry for the novel, but thank you in advance for your help!  If you recommend repair or replacing please be thorough in your recommendation (provide location of part and steps, or affordable place to purchase).      
  20. LG Washer model WM2050CW - ...My son-in-law is thinking of replacing the tub to door boot due to moldy smell on clothes. Washer has been through many 'Clean Cycles" and the boot has been cleaned at various times with either white vinegar or bleach. Not much, if any, help. Trying to help him out, I read up on replacing the boot and came upon two tools for removing the clamp rings. I see that the boot can be replaced without the tools, they just supposedly make it easier. I'm all for making jobs easier and one can never have too many tools!   I ordered both tools for him. The tool number Part number: 383EER4001A (straight prongs) makes sense as it "expands" when you squeeze the plier handles together. However, I don't see a use for the tool number Part number: 383EER4004A (bent prongs) in removing the boot springs. This tool's prongs actually "contract" when the plier handles are squeezed. I don't see them as being useful for removing the boot spring, as the don't "expand" the spring. They appear to be for an inside type spring or clip that must be "compressed" to be removed from a groove on the inside of a component.  Exactly where is the bent pronged tool, Part number: 383EER4004A , used? Thank you.
  21. Hello, I am new to this forum and looking for a little help.   My Bosch WTMC3300US/02 dryer is no longer working.  My wife is peeved and I can't seem to find a solution or even troubleshoot the problem.   The indicator lights all seem to work fine.  I select the cycle, the indicator timer turns on and begins counting down as normal...I even hear the clicking of a relay.   The dryer drum does not rotate and no heat is produced in the unit.  it just sits there with the timer counting down.   Is the motor bad?  Any suggestions on where to begin would be much appreciated!  The sooner the better (before my wife kills me!).   Thank you,   CS
  22. File Name: Samsung Tech Tip: Testing Refrigerator Sensors and Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) File Submitter: applianceman97 File Submitted: 31 Jul 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Theory and methods of testing sensors and PCBs applies to all Samsung models. PUB ASC20061103002 Click here to download this file
  23. Whirlpool GB2FHDXWB00 bottom freezer refrigerator, 4 years old...... freezer keeps icing over, refrigerator gets warm. Manual defrost through control panel works. Repeat problem. Repair service has defrosted refrigerator, replaced thermostat, replaced freezer thermistor (twice), added section of heating wire from defrost coil to inside of defrost drain tube.   Other than the above parts, what else is in the defrost system on this refrigerator? I did not see a separate defrost timer on the wiring diagram. This is getting quite frustrating.   I was thinking of replacing the control circuit board when I noticed on the wiring diagram that this refrigerator may have two thermistors, one for the freezer and one for the refrigerator section. Where is the refrigerator thermistor located and how do I access it? For that matter, where is the control board located and how do I access it?   It seems to me that since the defrost system appears to work, when manually initiated, that the defrost system components work when commanded "on". Besides the control board, what else might command the defrost system "on"?   Also, is there available an actual shop repair manual for this refrigerator?   Thank you
  24. Version


    Theory and methods of testing sensors and PCBs applies to all Samsung models. PUB ASC20061103002
  25. Where can I get a repair manual for this washer Kenmore stackable model 417978127704...I have looked everywhere with no help!