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  1. Hello all,    My first post although I've used infor on this sight main times! I have what may be a unique problem or perhaps not........ My Kitchenaid French door lower freezer model KFIS29PBMS00 does not cool in the upper fridge section. There is a smaller condenser coil in this upper section that does frost up and will eventually ice over. The lower main coil in the freezer section does not frost up or ice up so I know the heater etc is working. I thought perhaps the evaporator fan and thermostat may have an issue and replaced them. Still, upper fridge is not cooling enough. I dont know how it gets it's cool air as the lower freezer does cool the "pantry" drawer that has it's own temp control and that works fine. Everything else in the upper fridge does not cool sufficiently. I believe this fridge uses a dual coil system. So, is the problem that upper coil and what can I do to fix the issue?   Thanks very much!   Bluemoon
  2. Hi.  The securing tabs have failed on the grommet that makes the seal between the upper wash arm and the rear water inlet, and it keeps falling off.  I'd like to buy just the grommet, but it looks like it is only available with the entire upper wash arm.  Is that correct?  I really don't want to pay ~$65 for that grommet!   Cheers, Gary Looks like this part might also be called the tube gasket.
  3. I have a Amana side by side that is getting frost on the front corner of one of the freezer shelves. I used a dollar bill to check the seal and it seemed fine but as I looked closer I noticed 2 cracks in the plastic inside door liner... Obviously this is allowing a small amount of warm (relatively speaking) air to enter through the cracks and cause condensation on the edge of the shelf! My question is can I use some white silicone or RTV to plug these cracks? Would that leave a residual smell? or is there something else I can use to avoid replacing the freezer door liner?   Thanks in advance for your help!   P.S. The cracks in the door are directly across the from the frost deposits
  4. File Name: Maytag Tall Tub Dishwashers Service Pointer - Upper Rack Falls When Pulled Out W10764062 File Submitter: Chat_in_FL File Submitted: 11 Jan 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Technical Service Pointer #: W10764062 Maytag Tall Tub Dishwashers UPPER RACK FALLS WHEN PULLED OUT Models: MDB8969SDE0 (Black) MDB8969SDH0 (White) MDB8969SDM0 (Stainless) Serial Numbers: Serial number range: F416 – F443 Concern: Under certain conditions, the upper rack may fall when the customer pulls the upper rack out to load or unload the dishes. Click here to download this file
  5. Version

    22 downloads

    Technical Service Pointer #: W10764062 Maytag Tall Tub Dishwashers UPPER RACK FALLS WHEN PULLED OUT Models: MDB8969SDE0 (Black) MDB8969SDH0 (White) MDB8969SDM0 (Stainless) Serial Numbers: Serial number range: F416 – F443 Concern: Under certain conditions, the upper rack may fall when the customer pulls the upper rack out to load or unload the dishes.
  6. Hi...   I received an F21 error code, which is a drain issue. I followed the instructions, cleaned out the catch at the pump...it wasn't so dirty...plugged it all back in and now I get no power at all. Absolutely nothing. Yes, the outlet works just fine, I tested and retested it. The door keeps locking so I manually opened it. Help!
  7. Can you use regular "nickel safe" ice machine cleaner on a u-line ice machine? If so how much? I normally stock just Hydro Balance H-316
  8. I have a double oven GE Profile, the cavity measuring about 24" wide.  The original problem is that the lower unit does not self-clean (yes, I know, don't self-clean!).  I am going to sell the house and do not want any exceptions.  I have gone to troubleshoot the fact that it does not enter the cycle ("door", beeps).  I am trying to determine whether it is the lock mechanism or the control board.   Problem is I can't find my documentation (manuals or schematics) in order to diagnose.  Called GE and it turns out that it was never registered and apparently they aren't equipped with product family histories or trees.  This unit was likely manufactured in early-mid 2001 as it was installed in August 2001.  The tag itself is obliterated on both the s/n and model number Does anyone have a product family history that could give me a reasonable guess as to the model number that I could compare against the illegible sticker and see if maybe they correspond?  Lacking that, anyone familiar enough with the locking mechanisms to know which  wires / pin-outs I need to verify voltage on?  I would like to avoid buying a non-refundable $400 power module!
  9. Here are some helpful dishwashing tips. They are subjective, of course, but may be helpful to some.  I'm sure there are plenty of others to add to the list:   Ever since automatic dishwashing soap manufacturers moved to phosphate-free soaps a few years ago , dishwashing soap has just not worked as well as it used to. This is great news for the environment, but has not been so great for dishwashing. Even my favorite leading brand has been leaving customers frustrated, often thinking that their dishwashers were defective. I get lots of service calls for “dishwashers not cleaning,” which often points to a soap problem. So what can you do? Here are five tips for helping your dishwasher perform its best: Use only one brand of soap: Finish Quantum tablets. It seems no soap works quite as well as the old phosphate-laden soaps, but this one is head and shoulders above the others. They are formulated differently from other tablets. Use a dishwasher cleaner like Lemishine Dishwasher Cleaner every 20-30 washes. This cleaner has citric acid as its base, which seems to work better than white vinegar and other cleaners. Always use a rinse aid. Lemishine actually makes a rinse aid now, but ones like Jet Dry or Cascade Crystal Clear should do just fine. Usually about 4 oz. will last 20-30 washes. Most importantly, it helps them dry well, which is becoming even more important for newer dishwashers that use little to no heat on drying cycles. Use the hottest wash option. In general,  shorter cycles and lower energy usage = lower performance. Extra heat options are often available on wash and rinse cycles. These may add length to the cycle time, but the extra energy use is negligible (and still use considerably less than your mother’s dishwasher.) If no extra heat option is available, go for the longer wash cycle, often labeled “Power Wash,” “Pots and Pans,” etc. Clean out any internal filters after every wash. Imports like Bosch and Asko have at least one (most Bosch have three). Newer domestic models are starting to include these. Even if you do not have a filter, at least inspect the wash arm area at the bottom of your dishwasher for debris. It can clog your wash arms and reduce performance.   
  10. I read through the service manualhttp://appliantology.org/files/file/250-ge-31-9035-triton-dw-gsd5100-gsd5300-gsd5600-gsd5900-series/  and still have a troubleshooting question. The dishwasher is not cleaning properly.   Any advice? Did I miss it in the manual?
  11. File Name: Miele S7000 series Upright Vacuum File Submitter: kdog File Submitted: 02 Oct 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Service/Technical Manual for S7210 S7280 S7580 Upright Floor Cleaners Click here to download this file
  12. Version PDF

    31 downloads

    Service/Technical Manual for S7210 S7280 S7580 Upright Floor Cleaners
  13. My Kithchenaid DW KUDK03ITBS3 is not cleaning the top rack and i removed the food chopper and it was clogged around the perimeter but by no means clogged throughout. Under the filter, however, was a mess of dried and wet detergent. My questions are: 1) does the lack of wholesale chopper clogging suggest a different problem? 2) should i order a new chopper or just clean the original one? 3) do i need to fix the below filter sump and chopper assembly area of the caked detergent or can i just do a "vinegar run" to clean it? many thanks! ts
  14. Washer is performing all cycles efficiently with no audible or visual clues that its broken or not physically working properly.
  15. I have 1 each: LG - 3751DD1002B (upper) & 3751DD1001A (lower)RACK ASSEMBLIES [OEM ORIGINAL PARTS] that were "double shipped" from LG. I'm tired of trying to get them to take them back... SERIOUSLY! And now that the unit is OUT OF WARRANTY, it seems I need a pump motor or better yet: LG 3485ED1002B SUMP ASSEMBLY (FOR UNITS WITH SER# 601~612). My Ser#: 607KW02223. Trade? Thnx! ~peter Peter © Slosson slosson@aol.com 412•915•4328
  16. Hi, I have an older Bryant 75000 BTU Natural Gas furnace built in 1986 with a HH84AA 011 board. The thing started acting up where after the furnace would cycle the blower would come on briefly for a couple of seconds then turn off about 3 times within about 10 seconds. This had gone on for about a month. Now the blower will not turn off at all. We have to turn the power off to the furnace to get it to shut down. When it gets cold in the house we flip the switch and after the flame goes out and HX cools we flip the switch again. I’ve searched the forum and found a few instances where the blower stays on for this type of system. Here is what I’ve learned and done so far… I was looking for a bad Transformer which is working and putting out 24V. Checked for power between SEC 1 and SEC2 and get 24v. Checked the voltage between R and C and I get 24 volts as well so the board seems good. I cleaned the contacts on the relay and getting a spark when switched on. Checked the upper limit and it seems to be working fine along with the fuse on it is OK too. I disconnected the T-stat wires and tested everything again and everything seems fine. BUT the blower still will not turn off! I started tracing looking for any bare, worn or broken wires or loose connections and everything seems fine as well. I thought I'd have this fixed by now with the info I found on this site (you guys give great info) But this thing is driving me nuts! ANY HELP would be appreciated! Thanks! Jim J
  17. 8 year old unit plugged up, cleaned out several times, still plugs up after 2 or 3 uses. Replaced drain hose after it made a clicking sound while draining, no change. Upper rack items also aren't getting clean, and or rinsing well. What part could be the problem? I've looked at the forums and haven't found an answer. Don't want to replace parts in a process of elimination.
  18. upper rack in dish washer not cleaning dishes at all. Seems to be getting water. Not sure about anything with dishwashers.
  19. Hello, Whenever I pull out the top rack, the front right wheel falls off the guide, see . I can snap it back in without issue, but when it falls and the rack is full, it puts a bit of strain and I'm expecting something else to break. I took the rack out and noticed that the plastic guide attached to the rack is a bit warped at the front, see . I assume this is from heat and several years of use. I thought that maybe the wheels holding the metal channel to which the plastic guide attaches were loose and allowing it to move excessively, but this doesn't seem to be the case. Should I simply replace this plastic channel, part #22 on http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/M0302052-00004.png and expect the problem to be solved? Muchas Cervezas, TommasoPrimo