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  1. About a year ago, my Sub Zero 501R thermal protector (attached to the common terminal of the EM30SC compressor) cracked and I was unable to find a replacement and so I replaced the thermal protector and the current type relay with an aftermarket hard-start solid state unit (Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit).  It has worked fine for a year but I suspect that the compressor was starting to go which stressed the original thermal protector (either that or that the aftermarket kit was a bad idea) and now the compressor appears to have failed.  The compressor ohms out OK (7/16/24) but it simply won't start and now the compressor has started to make a little growling sound when trying to start (bearings perhaps?). I found a replacement compressor (EMI30ER1) which is 1/10 HP (tech specs here:  The Q: Would there be any reason, or benefit, to replacing it with a slightly larger 1/8 HP compressor instead?  The EMI45ER1 appears to be a slightly larger cousin and had the benefit of not requiring a start capacitor and is basically the same price. Also, under the "bigger is better" theory I'd expect that a bit more HP means that a slightly bigger unit wouldn't have to work as hard but not sure if that'd be wise (or if it would be the case) with a refrigerator compressor. I'm having a hard time finding the replacement drier (SZ 3014230 was original or 7006964 is newer) but I found Supco SUD8358 as a cross-referenced replacement.  If anyone recommends against this, please let me know. Last, I have all of the equipment (oxy-A torch, R12 recovery/charging unit, etc.) but I'd prefer to have a local person do the brazing (install the compressor and filter/drier) if you know of anyone near San Jose that'd be interested in just that part of the job.  I could take it from there.   Just to have all of the 501R info in one place, the R-12 capacity is 8 oz for serial #s prior to M658665/P662865 or 9 oz for serial #s M658666-M1204240 or P662865 to P1214190.  Subsequent to those serial #s the unit apparently was charged with 134a and of course with a different compressor and parts than I've listed above. All this info is per this SZ technical data sheet: Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Ruprik
  2. For refrigerator inverter compressors the self diagnostics LEDs are your visual starting point - then the nightmare continues? Need a test cord rig to manually operate inverter compressor. Electronics + Electrics + Time + ..... = Test Rig. Inverter Compressor Diagnostic LEDs.pdf
  3. Version


    Kitchenaid built-in sxs fridge with variable rate compressor 2003 M series   covering models KSSC42QMS01   KSS****M and others   job aid 4317344 KAR-15
  4. PLEASE HELP!! I have a Delfield freezer, model no. is GFR2-G.   My freezer compressor have a problem. It makes "clicking" sounds sometimes. sounds like compressor tries to start but fails. this sound repeat 5-6 times then compressor begins to work normal.  I have had this problem for 6 months.   I read the post below and guess maybe it's problem of start relay, but I could not find where the relay is. I just saw two big capacitor.     I put the video on youtube.       thank you very much!!  
  5. Made a call today for a frozen freezer warm refrigerator.  Parts house did not have bimetal, control board or thermistor in stock, have to make a order from ware house 2 days away.  Client is a friend who makes killer tamales. (Yea I work for food).  Cant put into defrost with normal WP key dances.   Evaporator solid block of ice.  Compressor just pumping away.  Temp -14.   Defrost with steamer to get access to limit.    Limit looks OK  will  meter it when I put into diagnostic defrost cycle.Freezer Thermistor is in channel running to light receptacle at front of freezer. As I work at melting ice I notice that refrigerator door switch controls Evap fan.   nothing else unb usual.    Have way thru job I push & hold on off button on user interface control board.   Lights on interface power off as well as Evap & condenser fans.  Compressor keeps on pumping.    Hit the evap coils with stem which melts frost & it frosts right back up.   Thinking control board got to be a little bonkers.   Pull up a service sheet for a 106.74202402 here on Apliantology,  close enough I guess.  Entry into diagnostic mode is different than I have done before.  Tomorrow I will try to put it into defrost to see if it will go before ordering a new board.   This unit is 10 years old, something I have not seen.  Even the IM is different, has a squirrel cage fan mounted to the module head.     All positive comments welcomed  I am leaning toward new board.
  6. File Name: Kitchenaid built-in sxs 2003 M series File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 30 Sep 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Kitchenaid built-in sxs fridge with variable rate compressor 2003 M series   covering models KSSC42QMS01   KSS****M and others   job aid 4317344 KAR-15 Click here to download this file
  7. My freezer quit cooling, and I found an extremely hot comp. drawing 3.3A....normal is 1.4A.  Killed power to the comp., let things cool down, fired it back up, and it ran for about 2 hours at normal draw, then shot back to 3.3A and began to overheat again.  Thermal overload switch handled it from there.   Sucked down the system, recharged and got the same symptoms.  I naturally jumped to the conclusion that I had a bad comp. and got one on order.  While I'm waiting, I have a lot of time on my hands, and I generally use that to come up with some hare-brained idea that screws up my original analysis.  In looking over the schematics, I noticed that the little rectangular box mounted on the frame in front of the compressor is a "Run" capacitor as opposed to a "Start" cap. pea brain comes up with the theory that if that Run cap is intermittent and failing, would that give me excessive draw and an overheated compressor?
  8. Split phase compressor Run

    From the album Refrigerator Repair

  9. Split phase compressor start

    From the album Refrigerator Repair

  10. This unit is 1999, so chasing down a new freezer compressor has been quite a challenge.    SubZero lists their original part #4201870, which was an Americold RG108.  I think Americold bit the dust somewhere along the line....anyway I'm finding little reference to it on the Net.  I keep coming up with numbers beginning with 700, such as 7006959, but that crosses to the refrigerator comp. which is 4201880.   Does anybody have a reliable cross-reference to what might exist today?   Would be deeply appreciated.   Wayne
  11.    Hi. My Whirlpool GB2SHTXTB00 fridge stopped cooling, or at least almost completely stopped cooling. Compressor and condenser fan run quietly and smoothly.   There is no airflow obstruction, no icing on coils, the fridge damper operates normally.   I ran the diagnostics on the Jazz board, and everything passed.  (I'm a little uncertain here.  When I enter program mode, it displays the correct code, 01.  When I entered service mode the last couple of times, it displayed its software version as 1 - 4. But,  I thought  that the first time I entered service mode, it displayed  2 - 5,  but it hasn't done that since, it's always 1 - 4.   So,  is there a way to find out the designation for the correct software for this machine, just to be sure it is in fact 1 - 4 as displayed?  if that's not the correct (or a real) software version, what do I do? Even if that's wrong, would it explain my problem, (no cooling even though the compressor and all other mechanical parts seem to run smoothly?    I also entered the freezer and fridge performance controls in the service mode , and  boosted the freezer and fridge two numbers colder.   No effect, there is still no significant cooling.  (When it first turns on, the airflow in the fridge seems slightly cool, but not cold.  Back wall of freezer (coils are behind it) is not cold).    Does all this mean the sealed system is dead, or at least has lost refrigerant?   If it’s a dead compressor, I doubt it’s worth fixing,  the machine is 8 years old. I can solder  but I gather brazing is required, and I don’t have equipment for that, torches, gauges, pump, nitrogen storage etc. (even if I had time to become familiar with all those).   Is it possible this system simply needs a refrigerant charge? Is that done?  Anyone know what that would cost?  (Thanks in advance for any advice.  Sorry if there is too much detail, my first time on this forum.) 
  12. Hello all, I am new to the forum, so thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer. I have a GE Profile Side by Side, Model PSDS3YGXCFSS, about 4 years old. It just abruptly warmed up one day and crapped out. Everything appeared to be fully functional, just warm. When checking it immediately after noticing fridge food was warm, the compressor was hot to the touch, condenser fan was running fine, but compressor didn't feel like it was running much at all (0 amps on clamp-on ammeter). Upon some initial looking online, I found that the inverter seemed like a possible problem, pulled it off, and it did smell burnt. All compressor windings checked out a 7.1 ohms in all combinations. I replaced the inverter with WR49X10283. The inverter had AC coming in and DC control power at about 5.6. VDC. There was some improvement now that the compressor showed starting current of about 1.0a, and running at about 0.5a, but that seems low to me for running with a 75 degree fridge and freezer. There was a little vibration that could be felt on compressor, but nothing substantial. All lines stayed at room temp and never changed regardless of however long fridge was plugged in. Further digging online pointed me to the motherboard as a potential problem. A call to the GE service center line got me a discounted $60 motherboard (WR55X10956), which also went in after verifying the evap fan was good (Checked it on running with old motherboard and verified not shorted, have new fan in case this one was bad). I am still at the same point with a new motherboard and inverter, and a warm fridge. From what I can tell I am getting all the proper voltages and resistances at all the points I can find online, and everything seems to be working but the compressor. All fans and electronics are working fine, the digital display on the front show accurate temps. It seemed unlikely to me that the compressor would go out on such a new fridge. It is covered under the sealed system warranty still and I am in the process of getting an authorized GE servicer out here soon. I would like to know what the probability is that there is an actual sealed system problem, and if this does indeed sound like one. Also, has anyone been successful with a sealed system warranty claim with GE?
  13. I have a stackable Asko washer/dryer. Had it for 21/2 years. Beginning of this March, water started gathering in the area of the removable compressor. Compressor is removed and cleaned each month. I've had two different repairmen, trained by Asko look at it. Neither one seems to be able to find the problem .hope someone out there has an idea. Thanks.
  14. I have a Frigidaire upright, frost free freezer. Normally, I keep it approximately 3 inches from the wall. I noticed about a month ago the high temp light would come on.the compressor was also almost too hot to touch. I moved it away from the wall,unplugged it, thinking maybe some froze up on the inside. I plugged it back in a couple hours later, and it was fine. A week ago the high temp light and alarm came on. The temp is actually staying between 16 and 18 degrees. So it really isn't all that high. But the compressor stays hot, even if I put a fan blowing on it. Nothing is wrong with gaskets or anything. It seals well, and still does the ,lock, (for lack of a better term) when you close it. (Can't open for a few seconds after.) Wondering if it could be a sensor, and why the compressor is getting so hot.
  15. I hope this is simple, but we'll see.  I get a tiny amount of water on the floor, occasionally, that I previously thought was spillage from water or ice dispenser.  However, it seems to be constant and is causing rust spots on the vinyl flooring.  As I am about to replace the flooring, I want to cure this first, so I pulled off the fiberboard panel on the back, to find the insulation stuck/frozen to tubing from the compressor.  Why is this tubing covered in frost?  What can I try to fix this?   Thanks!
  16. This machine dies in middle of any cycle.  Sometimes does not energize.  Very intermittent.  Either is dead or runs.   At first was able to run diagnostic cycle thru compleation.  Now it will run just a few before dieing.  Able to skip thru steps & all will operate at some time or other.   I believe it is the user interface failing. there is no set diagnostic for it.   Could it possibly be CCU?    Connections and wiring inspected & no corrosion or cuts found.
  17. I have a GE  PSS26NSTCSS S/N HL 430065   I have had this unit for several years. after 1 year the freezer started to not cool enough (never would get cooler than 40+) I had a tech look at it and he replaced the mainboard and I have had no issues until last Friday 2/6/15. The freezer temp was climbing.   I began troubleshooting.... the compressor wouldn't run. All the self tests check out except self-test 03 for testing temp control panel to dispenser board communication. (This may be an entirely separate issue)   All the fans run. The FF Damper opens and closes. All the thermistors test OK via Self Diags as well as Resistance tests and voltage tests on the J1 connector (per the service manual PUB# 31-9072).   Lights and door switches function as expected.    I replaced the Overload/Relay on the compressor. Windings test ok - no opens and no shorts to GND.    ​All fans seem to run fine (condenser, freezer and ff)    No burns on the mainboard no components fried or damaged that I can see.   Nothings seems to check out bad but the compressor simply will not start. Now for the odd thing. I noticed a post today where someone has a similar issue. The suggestion was to remove J2 and see if the compressor starts. It did. Logic would tell me that there is a bad fan, however, the fans run fine. The only thing I can say is I hear a very high pitched hum or whistle with J2 connected. I do hear a clicking that sounds like the overload trips and the compressor doesn't start. If i disconnect J2 and wait for a few mins. When reconnecting power, the compressor starts and runs.    My thoughts are that there is a bad fan that did something to the mainboard but isn't bad enough to complete fail. (Which really doesn't make sense) and most likely the mainboard is bad because of it. Now I did replace the Now I can replace the mainboard but I'm not convinced I don't have a mainboard earlier today before I did anything else and it didn't make a difference. My fear is that something may have damaged that board too. So before putting another mainboard in, I need to validate my concerns somehow. Am I missing something? I am an engineer but I don't fix appliances for a living (actually this is my first refrig. repair) but I have been researching and educating myself over the past 48 hours. I know someone with more experience may have some thoughts.    
  18. Hi, I REALLY need help, please!  Model no.: PSS26MSWASS Serial no.: LM436265   Right now, the fresh food and freezer compartments are not cooling at all.   Let me list the order in which things broke:   1. First, the water and ice dispenser stopped working. The lighted buttons for "crushed ice," "water," etc. would still light up, but as soon as you tried to dispense into a glass, the lights would shut off and nothing would happen.   2. Next, the ice maker stopped working.    3. Then, the entire cooling system stopped working.   4. The refrigerator would periodically make a clicking sound, the condenser fan did not work, and the compressor was hot, so I checked the start relay. The start relay did rattle, so I replaced that part.    5. When I plugged the refrigerator back in, it turned on, but the condenser fan moved EXTREMELY slowly. It was difficult to tell if it was even moving at all. Of course, the water/ice dispenser still wouldn't work.   6. My dad thought he was smelling a slight burning smell (although I didn't smell anything...) and figured that since the condenser fan wasn't working, it should just be left unplugged.    7. So, is it true that if the condenser fan isn't running properly, the entire cooling mechanism won't work? I guess it won't speed up as it goes along, will it...? :/ So we are at a loss for what to do next...   Please help me!!!  Thank you SO much! You are awesome!
  19. I have a Northland Desginer Series Refrigerator with top freezer. Does anyone have a parts diagram or can tell me where the overload relay is located? Thanks.
  20. washer runs, and dose not turn off.i have replaced timer, same problem.  
  21. OK, so hoping to find a little direction here.  We are having issues with our Subzero 650.  We bought it 4 years ago used at a steal of a deal ($350) on craigslist.  It's worked like a dream since then, although it was quite a bore to move into place and clean out.  The seals are definitely bad, and need replacing, but it does have suction and seems to seal up most the time, and I push on it when closing it to help encourage this.   Recently, after we were out of town visiting family for a week, the unit began to act up.  Here is a list of the symptoms:   The freezer reaches -30 (and beyond?) by the thermometer that I put in the drawer.  It maxes out at -30, so it's hard to tell, but it sounds like a deep arctic freeze when I open/close it.  It's a little scary! The digital display says -20 during this time, but I believe that is where it maxes out, as opposed to the -30.   The freezer compressor (the one on the left hand side when looking at the unit) makes a humming noise, runs for extremely long periods when the freeze occurs, and does not shut off when using the power button.  I have to turn the breaker off, or unplug the unit to get it to shut off.   I manually defrosted the freezer when this has occured, and then set the thermostat to only +5 to lessen the work load on the unit, and it will maintain that for awhile (usually) after I have let it completely defrost for several hours.   When the unit first started to act up, it leaked water from the little copper tube that is beneath the unit.  I think this is the water line for the ice maker, but I don't know.  It also put out lots of little "thingies" No idea what these little balls/itty bitty donut things are.   Our unit has always gurgled, but it often makes this sound MUCH louder than it used to.  It's intermittent.   The coil is clean, and yet from time to time the "VACCUUM CONDENSER" will flash.  I reset this by unplugging for 30 minutes after vaccuming again.  It has not come back in awhile, but it did come back even after the first attempts to clean and reset manually.   There is some condensation in the fridge, but I have *thought* I should attribute it to the bad seal.  The fridge fan works, but the light is out and I need to replace that switch. I accidentally swapped these, and almost shocked myself while using a butter knife to remove the two switches and do some testing.  The problems occured not long after this.  Maybe I've fried something???   So today the unit was working well, until the power went out on our street for maintenance.  I had just defrosted the unit yesterday because the compressor was running so long (I've been turning it off for periods during the day to give it a break when it does that).  After the power outage, the freezer is no longer able to keep cold.  It's 30 and climbing.    Could it be the thermostat?  The control board?  Any other ideas?  Are these things I can trouble shoot and DIY?   Many thanks!!
  22. Hello, I am new to this forum and looking for a little help.   My Bosch WTMC3300US/02 dryer is no longer working.  My wife is peeved and I can't seem to find a solution or even troubleshoot the problem.   The indicator lights all seem to work fine.  I select the cycle, the indicator timer turns on and begins counting down as normal...I even hear the clicking of a relay.   The dryer drum does not rotate and no heat is produced in the unit.  it just sits there with the timer counting down.   Is the motor bad?  Any suggestions on where to begin would be much appreciated!  The sooner the better (before my wife kills me!).   Thank you,   CS
  23. I have been working on a GE SBS Refrigerator model GSH25JFXBWW-S/N TR219919 Compressor runs all the time. Freezer temp is good (between 0 and 5 degrees). FF side is a little high at about 46-50.  Everything else works fine.   Also, I downloaded a schematic for this model from this site (pub. no. 31-51716) but it does not match the actual wiring on the main control board (Low Voltage Side) at J1, J2, J3 and J4.    I didn't want to have to remove each sensor to check it since the diagnostic is supposed to do that.  I couldn't check them at the control board because the wiring doesn't match.    I originally determined the main control board was bad and replaced it.  Everything worked as it should, so I thought I was done. The compressor was cutting on and off as I adjusted to different temp settings.  However, after a few hours after I left, it went back to the compressor running all the time again.   I have tried to run the diagnostics. It goes into diag mode but the tech information I have (which lists similar GE models but doesn't list this specific model) doesn't line up with what I am getting so I don't trust it.  For example, when using diag code 0 2, 03, and 04 to do the communication test it responds with 01, 4, and P respectively.   When using diag code 0 7, it responds with: 01, P2, P3, P4, 25 When I put in a new Dispenser Board it responds with 01, P2, P3, P4, 05   I have tried to find a different tech manual for this specific model on this site in the appropriate section but could not find one. I am looking for someone to point me in the right direction.  Thanks
  24. Just discovered that my Kenmore upright freezer is not freezing. Checked the compressor and it was very hot to touch but wasn't running. There seems to be a continuous low clicking sound coming from either the compressor or somewhere around it.   I need to find the problem and fix it ASAP because my freezer is full of meat that I cannot afford to let spoil. I have had this freezer for about 3 years now and have never had any problems.