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  1. Gentlemen, I could use some help. I have a pretty old Jenn-Air model# SVE47500b electric range that has not functioned properly for some time and I finally decided to try and fix it. The stovetop elements all work fine, but the front display is completely blank. Pressing the membrane buttons on the front results in "beeps" but nothing else. I did some research and ordered a relay control board (the small board on the back of the oven behind the stamped cover) but when I replaced that board it had no effect on the problem. I then replaced the clock board in the front of the unit and lo and behold I have a working display! However, when i pressed the "bake" button and input a temperature of 350 degrees (or really, any number), i almost immediately get an error code of "F5" and a continuous "beep" until I press "cancel" on the membrane keypad. Stove top elements still work fine, but oven doesn't heat up at all - I just get that error code. Anything else I can try, or do i need to call in a repair technician?  I'm wasn't quite ready to replace the oven yet (was going to wait until i did a kitchen remodel) and while I can return the relay control board (the old one performs indistinguishably from the new one), keeping the clock board means I've got a little under $300 into this repair and unless I can fix it for less than about $500 total I think I might just be looking at a replacement oven...
  2. Have a GE bottom freezer  that evaporator fan noisy as ice builds up on top right side of evaporator and eventually into the fan blade in the refrigerator section. Has to be thawed out every 12 months. Drain probe has already been added and there is no water in the evaporator trough. Is there a "fix" for this or just thaw out every year. There does not seem to be any air leaks in refrigerator section
  3. I have an Amana ABD2233DES refrigerator with a bottom mount freezer. Fridge compartment was warm, compressor was running and the damper was open no air was coming in. Fridge had some ice on the center-rear of its floor (like where the cold air should have been coming up from the freezer compartment. Freezer had a lot of ice frost buildup on coils.  Thanks to the videos I discovered the tech sheet and put it into service test mode. Defrost Thermostat was S" for open. I observed the damper door opening and closing. I put it into forced defrost mode. Compressor shut off and the defroster heating rod came on. There was so much ice I had to go through about 7-8 forced defrosts and I used a heat gun to melt.  I have ordered a new jazz board. My question is: While I am waiting for my board I need to continue to use the fridge and I'd rather not have to throw away any more food!  My plan is just to force defrost at least 1x per day. But then I realized that I have no idea if that will be enough! I guess I never really noticed/paid attention to the defrost cycles before so how do I know if the defrost cycle is continuing to fail to initiate on its own? About how often does a fridge operating properly, defrost? If I find that there is a bunch of frost buildup and/or the fridge isn't keeping cool - can someone point me to the way to do a longer/deeper forced defrost? Is doing manual forced defrosts until my board shows up in a week a wise strategy? thanks all,  Steve
  4. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  5. My Maytag washer (MDB8959SBS2) is acting possessed as of late. Lately, it has started beeping fits (it just randomly beeps) and getting the dishwasher to select the correct profile is a game of wack a mole. Additionally, now it has a blinking "control lock" light that will not extinguish even after the dishwasher has been power cycled. I took apart the front panel and checked and I can see plenty of corrosion inside the flat ribbon cable between the control panel and ECU. After I cleaned the connector as best I could, I put it back together and ran a normal cycle. After the cycle ran and appears to have completed, it started the random beeping again. Additionally, now the control lock light is blinking and I can't seem to get it out of this state. Thanks in advance for you help! Nate
  6.     I have been asked to work on a I believe 1977 tappan propane cooktop.   The local propane company sent the customer to me.   To find the problem was easy  to find the part not so easy.   The model number is 1034 what I need is the burner gas control valve.   All the numbers on the plate for the unit goes AZ14 6311-26-1034-8649 above the 26 it says part number above the 1034 it says   model number and above the 8649 it says serial number.
  7. Replacing the condenser fan motor and forgot to look which way the fan should have been placed back on the new motor.  I think the air flow should go over the coils and NOT towards the condenser, but the motor is pulling the air that direction.  1.) Is there a way to change the direction of the air flow (I don't think so) and 2.) if not, can it go towards the compressor without a problem?...if I leave the access panel off and allow the heat to escape?  I ordered the part from your affiliate (Appliance Parts Pro) and this is what they sent me....thanks in advance.
  8. LG bottom freezer has ER DH on display. OK, First of all, this fridge does not have a cooling issue and does not have ice building up in the freezer. Defrost heater and terminator are closed. Defrost thermistor is showing correct readings. The board does defrost in test mode. Customer explained the fridge made some loud clicking noises repeatedly and then had the error. He explained that a week or two later the same noise was heard and the error has now gone away. It has continued without error for 2 days now. I reccomend starting out by changing the thermistor/terminator assembly but I am betting it's the board. Maybe someone has seen this issue before. Also, I have had quite a few LGs that have had wiring issues, I found this by trying to test the DF heater from the board and read open, but when going in the replace the heater it tested food. This issue may be happening intermittently. ANY help is aprecciated.
  9. Hi I have defrost issues.... I tested the thermostat and heater for continuity and they tested good. The fan is running so it's not that. How do ingest the Jazz board before buying a new one
  10. Bosch SHE45M05UC/56   The unit has experienced a number of issues recently 1. Not heating, reset breaker that helped (but I ordered a new control board just in case)   2. Overfilling, water everywhere.  It was draining forever until i read about flood mode.  Drained the water from the pan and that took care of that.   I changed the control board, Quick Wash cycle starts normally but fills longer than usual and continues to fill even when the unit is switched-off.     Is the float switch 00165256 the culprit?   I cleaned the control assembly and it seems to be clicking properly.   Test button routine gives me a C6/PO in the display.   (This may be irrelevant but I replaced a cracked fascia panel recently but was careful to replace the buttons in order.)   Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you.
  11. Had a call today and if it hasn't been discussed here already, hopefully if you run into the symptoms down the road you will remember reading this and it saves you some time. It is covered in wpl service pointer #w10666199. Symptoms of this fridge were erratic display, door ajar lights staying on then not working at all, showing PF multiple times daily, bottom deli drawer control blank, no ice production and nothing happened when ice or water dispenser lever pushed. I had trouble trying to go through diagnostics and was about to leave and order a main control board. I found water on the floor of the fridge compartment under the deli drawer from an apparent spill, removed the screws to get the deli user interface board out and found a wet ui board. I unplugged the little ui board, shook and blew on the connector, plugged the fridge back in and everything started to work fine. I left the deli ui board unplugged until I get back with the new one which I had to order. Surprised that I haven't ran into this before and curious to see if the new part # comes with a better seal of some type.
  12. Looked at this GE SXS last week. Customer complaint fridge was too warm in both compartments. Fridge 8 degr Celsius and Freezer - 5 degr. Celsius. Cond. fan motor was barely rotating. Compressor very hot and cut out on too high temperature. Took the cond fan motor out to check at home as per Samurai Video. Fan motor is fine. Left the fridge with a domestic fan behind the fridge to cool compressor and condenser coil. Fridge and freezer are working fine now. The motherboard is very hard to get here and very expensive!!.Leaves me with the option of having the original board repaired which leaves the customer with no fridge for a week. Can anybody tell me if I can install a small 220 volts fan motor like on the Amana 3 door bottom mount  G37025PEAS   Maytag Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Part number: W10246191     and supply it with 220 volts by wiring it parallel to the compressor supply.( good old regular compressor).   This would give me the option of cutting cost for costumer leave with a very nice margin and probably a very happy customer who has not to manage a week with no fridge.   Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  13. My dryer control panel seems to have shorted.  I am wondering if anyone has a schematic that would allow me to see if I can fix the board.  I have nothing to lose since the dryer is defunct and I cannot afford 275.00 for a  new panel.  The main symptom was a loud click and the dryer acted as if it were counting down the time, but no movment of the drum.  I tested the panel and it seem most definitly the problem although the lcds and the keys all seem to work according the the diagnostic test.  The motor seems fine as well. Is it possible to reapair the board and if you know how could you share it with me? Thanks in advance.
  14. My dishwasher controls have no power after 3 washes that ended with an incomplete pump-out. The breaker is good. Does anyone have a parts list for this model and a troubleshooting tip for this type of failure? Thanks
  15. File Name: Energy Efficient Temperature Regulating And Defrost Control Systems - Whirlpool Job Aid File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 29 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863 Click here to download this file
  16. Version


    Independent Temperature Control for Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers Adaptive Defrost Control for Top-Mount and Side-by-Side Refrigerator/Freezers   Technology education Job Aid   PUB 4321863
  17. This down draft fan low speed fan quit working early in the year the high speed quit working early July.  I had DC voltage coming into the board From the J4 connector cable coming from PCB.   12vdc  drops down to 7vdc when low speed is activate & basically zeros out when off.  No voltage to either relay coming out.  I have a 118vac going into the relay spade coming directly from theterminal block.   I replaced the downdraft board & fan speeds worked fine then.   Client said that she used the oven fans maybe 3 times in the following several weeks (I believe that)   I am back to square one now which same thing DC voltage in No relay voltage out.   I jumped the high speed side of motor out & it runs.   I did not jump the low speed out for fear of damaging wiring from standstill.   Is it possible that my fan motor is drawing to much currant as to be taking the relays out or am I grasping at air.  I did not think to take wattage of fan motor when jumping.  I had low ohms when I checked for resistance but nothing I can find to compare them to.   Should I be backing up to the PCB? 
  18. Dear Kind Appliantologists:    I have a Dacor ERD30S Duel fuel range.  I bought it 3 years ago and one of your helpful followers from Hickory NC converted it to propane.  We had the main board repaired by the helpful folks at out of Texas.  SInce the unit was torn apart, decided to replace the touchpad membrane at the same time.   It was purchased new from  Well after 3 short years the new membrane has thrown a F0 failure which appears to mean I need to replace it again, as the cancel/stop button is malfunctioning.  Well, this part is NLA.  I cannot find where this is a repairable/rebuildable item.  Anyone here know who might be a resource?  I have been able to reset the board (for now) but I'm certain this will come up again.  I hate to know I lose all of this wonderful hunk of cooking hardware because of a single part NLA.  Any suggestions anyone has would be appreciated.  Thank you.  Andrew Sugg Durham NC
  19. Any GE warrantee serviceman out there with experience replacing defective control panel on this particular wall oven GE JTP30SM2SS.   Touch panel is bubbling & manufacturer sent replacement control Board to customer under recall warranty.   I am asked to do replacement of panel.   Going site unseen although never being lazy have researched not only on appliantology but other sites as well.   Unable to find what I am searching for so I am looking for help in the technique of getting the job done with out any unforeseen difficulties.  All constructive advice is appreciated.   Note:  Durham I do not want to waste your time or invoke your wrath so please ignore this request.  i care about your health & do not wish to raise your blood pressure, save that for the younger folks.   Peace you old fart
  20. When my wife started up our KitchenAid (KUDMO1TJWH1) built by Whirlpool, it filled with water and ran briefly but stopped.  The D/W is run on "Normal" with a drying cycle.  However, once stopped the "Hi-Temp Scrub" light blinks.  When I press the "Cancel" button, the "Normal" and "Cancel" and "Hi-Temp Scrub" lights blink.  I tried cutting the power at the circuit breaker and reset it.  All lights went and stayed out.  Pressed "Normal" again and the pump started up for about 30 sec and shut down.  Got the blinking lights again.  Repeated cutting power at circuit breaker and resetting it but pump did not restart when pressing "Normal."  Reading the Whirlpool "Do-it-Yourself" manual it looks like this could be a Control Board problem or a Control Console Cover/Touchpanel issue.  How does one tell which?  Both replacement parts are significant investments.
  21. We are seeing quite a few of the main control boards for these units coming in for rebuild. The boards are failing in a variety of ways, causing symptoms like intermittent cooling, flashing display, adaptive defrost not converging, evaporator icing up, etc.   The boards are hard to find but we can rebuild the original for you. We currently have some inventory also. Typical Model Numbers: KBUDT4855E KBUDT4855E01 KBUDT4860A02 KBUDT4865E01 KBUDT4865E03 KBUDT4875E/01 KBULT3675E01 Main Control Board Part Numbers: 00656502 643635 653194 656502 865741
  22. the panel was stuck on sensor dry/ start pause and machine wouldnt start.I could press time dry and start/pause at the same time to change drying modes but machine still wouldnt start. unplugging wouldnt reset it the panel lights come on  sequentially. any advice on how to get the machine to reset/start?
  23. I have a GE side by side model #psh23sgpabs that is not cooling at all. the condenser fan is coming on along with the evaporator fan, but he compressor wont start. I had a service man out today that said the inverter board is getting power but not sending enough power to the compressor to turn on. He jumped the compressor off the mother board and it still did not start. Looks like there is only about 44 volts coming out the inverter board to the compressor. He said that is not enough power.  I found an inverter board for $400 but don't know if it is worth it to fix because the refrigerator is 12years old. I would like to have the board repaired if possible. Can anyone please tell me the repair is worth it for a 12yr old frig, does it sound the the inverter board is the problem and can anyone repair the board instead of replace. Any help is appreciated.
  24. Hello,   my mother who lives in Jamaica, has a GE PROFILE PGSS5PJXB refrigerator/freezer and for the past few months both compartments have been unable to maintain their temperature (both fridge and freezer are running warm). She has lost weeks of groceries and has had several repairmen come to look at and assess the problem to no avail. We assume that the technicians in Jamaica are not that familiar with this technology and are unable to find the source of the problem. One repairman stated that the gasket around the door may be faulty, it was replaced and no change. The other said that it needed refrigerant, which was change. Both repairmen expressed that the compressor and fan are working properly.  She has become very frustrated that no one seems to be able to identify and fix this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  25. Went on this monster built in GE monogram fridge and found the evaporator fan not working.  Opened up the freezer inside top cover in the top back and found the fan not working.  Found a piece of foam insulation had fallen from above and jammed it up so it couldn't turn and it got hot and burnt up.  The fridge had been running hot for 3 or 4 days before I could get by to look at it and the evaporator was all cold and frosty but of coarse the freezer and fresh food were hot.  I replaced the fan and relocated the insulation back where it came from and put everything back together and told them to let me know how it goes.  They called next day and said all is still hot.  I told them to turn it off for 24 hours and try it again, thinking the evap was probably frozen up and not letting air circulate.  They did this and called back saying no improvement.  I pulled a manual for a similar modal number but it is not the same. 31-9117.  Am going back tomorrow to look at it.  I was hoping for a manual for this model.  I have no experience on working on one of these.  Any ideas will be helpful.  I'm thinking I have an air flow issue and also need to check the evaporator which I'm not sure how to get to it.  It's in the top.   Doc