Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/cycle+time+too+short'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Found 85 results

  1. Hi all,    An admittedly very low-priority issue.  Just more of an annoyance.     We have a Whirlpool Velos   GH7208XRB1 microwave/convection oven/hood thingy manufactured in 2007.  You set the time and date, and there's a setting to automatically adjust for daylight saving time beginning and ending.  Pretty cool!   HOWEVER, in that same year of 2 double-aught seven, the US decided to extend daylight saving time by four weeks, changing the start and stop dates for each.  This news apparently failed to penetrate the caverns where whirlpool keeps their firmware programmers, and, when enabled,  the schedule in my oven continues to try to spring forward and fall back on the days prescribed under the OLD method.  So pretty much that handy-dandy feature is worthless.     SO, my question is, without replacing the control board (I'm guessing it's Part number: AP3964497 ) for a hundred-ish bucks, is there a way to update the firmware somehow?  Like is there some kind of USB port on the control board that I can hook to a PC and flash the updated code?  And I'd be curious to see (not that I want to find out the hard way!) that if I did happen to need to replace said CB for another reason, does the replacement CB even have the updated algorithm for DST dates?    AND, now on to a mini-RANT:  How come my thousand dollar Nuke and my 2+-grand induction range/dual oven (Samsung NE58H9970WS) don't have facilities for some sort of memory retention for the clock for a brief power outage?  Heck, my 15 dollar alarm clock lets me put a 9 volt battery in it so I don't have to reset the clock.  We had a 30 second power drop yesterday and the only 2 things in the entire house I had to reset were those two items.  There oughta be a law!!!!   /Rantover
  2. Appliantologists,   The clothes washer in question is a Kenmore 110.24832200, about 12 years old according to a serial number search I did (I bought it refurbished about 3 years ago).  On a fast spin cycle it gradually gets more and more out of balance until the washer is dancing around and there is the occasional banging sound.  It performs OK on the slow spin speed, although you can see that the drum is out of balance.   The leveling of the cabinet is good.  I've checked it across the front, across the back, front to back on each side and also corner to opposite corner.  The self leveling legs at the rear seem to be working perfectly.  I checked the leveling of the tub with the cabinet removed.  It seems good and the tub returns to a level position.   The suspension springs look good, although I don't know what to look for when examining them, so I might miss it unless it's something obvious like one being broken or disconnected.   The counterbalancing spring and the leveling spring (at the back) are rusted but intact and in place.   I've read about snubber or wear pads on these that can also wear down and cause this problem.  Don't know if these were replaced when the washer was refurbished, and I haven't removed the drum to check them.   My question is, do these symptoms seem more like spring symptoms, snubber pad symptoms, both, or something else?  I'm thinking they are more like spring symptoms because of the way the drum gets up to full speed for a while and the vibration develops, getting worse and worse.  But I'd like to get some second opinions about diagnosing or fixing this:  replace all the springs, including the suspension springs or just replace the rusted leveling and counterbalance spring?, or replace the pads? or both? or something else entirely?   Thank you!    
  3. My Whirlpool LSR7233EQ0 is not draining or completing the wash cycle. I fills with water and agitates but when it reaches the point where the dial progress past the initial wash state it just stops. If I turn the dial back to the beginning it will agitate again. I dsiconnected the water and tried it again but at that point it would not even agitate.    any insights would be greatly appreciated as I have about 6 loads of kids laundry and my wife is taking her bi-monthly vacation so I will have to deal with this situation by myself.
  4. There was a lid lock failure on this machine, unit would click under the hood in an attempt to lock the lid, then click, then click appearing to never confirm lock at the control and never beginning to fill.  Door was never physically secure, lid would lift freely after each click. Replaced door lock and tested, unit locked and began cycle, machine seemed to test good. Now the issue appears to be what I think is called the "never ending cycle" a test mode that whirlpool has where machine will not pause between washes, but complete a cycle, drain and then fill and begin a cycle again. If this is the issue, I know there is a key dance across the control, unplug unit etc. to get back into regular use mode. I Was hoping someone may have that information. Or could there be a secondary failure that I have overlooked associated with the door lock failure.   Thank you  
  5. Hello!   LG WM210H washing machine approx. 5 years old.  Washer stops prior to beginning spin cycle and shuts down with regular-sized load.  At times, will begin cycle for short time but will then shut down and fuse (in home fuse box) has been blown a couple of times at this point.  Will run VERY SMALL loads, approx. 4-5 items, but nothing heavy.  Have a pretty handy hubby but not sure what needs replacing.  Please help - we need clean underwear!   Thank you!!
  6. Morning, I have a question regarding an LG Tromm washer we recently purchased from a previous owner. Washer was working fine, until recently, I noticed washer had leaked water. That got fixed on its own, then noticed that a couple of times, clothes was left damp after cycle ended. And now washer seems to get stuck on rinse cycle for quite a long time as to where it forces me to shut water off and washer itself. Water continuosly pours in non-stop for up 45 mins if I don't shut water off while display show rinse mode and minutes do not change at all. Read and did appliance test as suggested on an previous post "LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error" where I found out water kept on pouring in through detergent dispenser area and no water inlet what so ever when it hit the bleach area. I however do not get any error code and wanted to find out if same part numbers for water valves apply to my model? Any advice and help will be extremely appreciated as clothes are piling up, and not to mention sticky pile on floor after washer failed to properly wash or dry them prior to my giving up on sticken thing. Thank you, eager to hear any suggestions and/or ideas.      
  7. We have the Whirlpool GGW9200LT1 natural gas dryer.  It has been taking 90+ minutes to dry a load of clothes.  It's about 10 years old, we were told, and we recently acquired it from a friend.  We have been down the line with troubleshooting and don't know what to try next.   The dryer has been disassembled and cleaned several times.  There is no lint build up inside the dryer anywhere that we can find.  It's in a tight space and the air vents from the dryer into a 90, left about 3 feet in flexible aluminum venting, then another 90 through the wall and outside.  This is all new venting and is unobstructed.  We removed all venting and dried a load just venting into the room (condensation all over the house from this!) and noticed no difference in drying time.  Air venting out is a strong, warm flow.  The blower does not feel loose.  We don't hear any odd noises or rattles.  The gas valve solenoid coils have been replaced with no difference to the drying time.  When the dryer is started, the ignition glows orange, the flame starts and runs within about 30 seconds.  the dryer feels pretty warm, but we are new to natural gas and I'm not sure hot hot it should feel.  I just know that it is taking a very long time to dry.  The clothes are coming from a front loader washer and are more damp than wet.     Does anyone have any suggestions of what I can test next before we have to call a tech to come out?  Ideally, I would like to avoid that to save on cost.  Any ideas and how-to would be much appreciated!
  8. I am experiencing two problems with my Kenmore 417.90862990 Washer/Dryer.  #1 below is most critical.  #2 below I have been living with, but wish to fix:   1. Last night I found water coming out of an overflow hole on the tub and immediately turned it off.  I noticed the washer's pump wasn't working.  I put the washer back in spin mode and tapped the pump with a hammer, which got it working again.  However, it was a little noisy.  It looks like the pump can be disassembled.  Is that true?  Is it possible something is lodged in the pump (impeller??)  causing the issue?  Thoughts?  Should I first take it apart, if possible?  Replacement part is:   http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-model-kenmore-41790862990.html   2. For several years now when the wash timer enters spin mode, it sometime goes into agitation mode instead.  My workaround is to open the lid and with a screwdriver cycle on and off the lid switch.  After doing that usually several times, the washer will go into spin mode.  I then close the lid and allow it to fully spin dry the clothes.  Strange thing is this happens more often with small loads, less often with large loads which throws me off?  What might cause this problem?  Can it be the timer itself?  I am not sure what what or how the transmission is told to go from agitation mode to spin, etc.     Thanks for any help!  
  9. Having a problem with this unit. 14 months ago I replaced the case assembly & case brake.     Now I am having a drain issue of sorts.    The unit will run a cycle or two then shut down with the delicate light blinking indicating a drain failure.   I checked the drain line for blockage, the case brake is clear.   I reapplied power to unit & initiated a cycle, let it fill & agitate, then cancelled the cycle forcing it to drain.  The drainage seemed weak so I replaced pump.   Let it run a cycle all was well although drain pressure still seemed weak.   Client used DW for a couple of loads & unit shut down in middle of cycle with delicate cycle blinking..   I made another call reset power, unit worked OK.  Filled washer & let run then forced drain several times,, unit drained all water (slowly).   Checked voltage & voltage drop  it was OK.  Left home  Client washed a load it completed cycle..  The next load did not fair so well.   Blinking delicate light before cycle was complete.   Fast tract says problem possibility could be drain pump (new), water level sensor ( I believe is in the case assembly)  or the main PBA  ( the unit working in a cycle or two tends to eliminate this).   Any other tech have this problem or can offer possible solutions.   Thank you  I await replies.  
  10. I made a major amateur mistake on a Frigidaire Gallery electric dryer 2 weeks ago and it cost me today. I was installing the rear bearing kit part number: Part number: WE25X10001   The tiny little stainless steel ball that goes in the rear bearing, GOES BEHIND THE PLASTIC BEARING!!!!!   I put it in front (where there really is no room at all for it when the drum mount ball bearing slides in) and eventually the ball worked to the bottom of the white plastic bearing.  This caused the small ball to dig a massive line through the large ball bearing mounted to the back of the drum as well as causing terrible screeching (even with the high temp lube).    My bad. My call back. My time.  My money lost. MAJOR BUMMER for simply not putting a small metal ball in the correct place!!! THE BACK OF THE PLASTIC BEARING....NOT THE FRONT!!!! I stand humbled.   Lesson learned. I just wanted to share this with other techs and DIY'ers.      ....Its a good thing my customers were so nice and appreciative.  I've had others not so accepting of mishaps.
  11. Washer is a WFW9500TW01. I have had two previous F 35/SUD conditions. First F 35/SUD occurred over a year ago. Replaced APS with no luck, then replaced CCU. Washer worked after this for over a year until I got the F 35/SUD error codes again. Troubleshot again and found the CCU in need of replacement so purchased and replaced it again 2 months ago. Washer worked perfectly until a week ago when I attempted to run the Clean Washer cycle. Clean Washer cycle ends with F 20 error. See below for steps I taken and outcomes for each:   All Washer cycles (except Clean Washer cycle): Every cycle works perfectly with no error codesClean Washer cycle: Start Clean Washer cycleWasher continuously drains for about 20 minutes and throws the F 20 error codeDiagnostic Test: Start Diagnostic Test modeDrain starts @ C:00Test advances to C:01, drain pump still running, steamer unit activates,Test advances to C:02, drain pump still running, inlet valve/s never open, throws F 20 error codeSteamer Functionality Checkup Returns "yes"Troubleshooting steps for F 20 error code during Clean Washer cycle and Diagnostic Test Identify F 20 error code - "NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED"First of all, I performed all of the following tests even though all other washer cycles work appropriatelyReplaced APS, did not fixInspected supply hoses, no kinks or bendsDisconnected supply hoses and checked for obstructions at filter screens for hot and cold supply and flow, no debris or trash found and water flow checked goodInspected drain hose to ensure there is not a siphon condition present, none foundRemoved lower front panel and inspected pump filter cap for obstruction, none foundChecked Inlet valves at all other cycles, have tested both in cold only and hot only scenario, both are actuating and working properlyRemoved flow valve and checked for obstructions, none foundRemoved back panel of washer, removed APS hose and inspected for blockage or signs or cracking or holes, none foundRemoved trap where APS hose connects, clean and unobstructedContacted appliance repair store and got replacement CCU under warranty, installed, did not fix (I personally would have thought this would have been the problem)This washer has been such a pain in my you know what...I've already spent over $400 in repair costs. With this recent issue, I'm at my wits end in trying to identify the cause of this problem. It's not a deal breaker because the washer still functions properly, but I can't help but want to know the cause behind it. Does anyone have experience with this type of error code scenario? I would have bet good money that the CCU had failed again, but after changing it once more....the problem is still there. Would anyone happen to have a tech or service manual for this particular model that I could use to test each component with a volt meter?  
  12. Hello,   I have a Maytag washer - model MAV6200AWW. It skips rinse & spin cycles. If I raise then close the washer lid after it has skipped the rinse and/or spin cycle, it then drains and seems to then do the right thing. If not, we find it full of soapy water. It seems to happen on all wash settings (color, whites, etc.). This happened on occassion at first, but now happens with pretty much every load.   Would the timer be suspect, even if there is this response after when opening the lid?   I've also found advice online to "re-set the onboard computer" by unplugging the washer for 1 minute, then plugging back in and then opening & closing the lid 6 times within 12 seconds. I also did this and it did not seem to fix the problem.   Interesting note (or not): this model has "customize cycle" buttons, 3 of them seated together: "super wash","extra rinse", or "off". We do not use these, so we have the "off" button selected. When we go back & find the washer full of water after skipping cycles, the "off" button seems to have popped out. I suspected this might be the cause of the skipping of cycles, so I disconnected all wires at the back of these buttons...no help, though, as this did not fix the problem!   Any ideas, oh Wise Ones?   Thank you!!
  13. On my top-loading, GE, WCSR2080B2WW, the tub does not spin on the spin cycle. It seems to agitate fine. When I inspect the drive system as the washer is going, the retainer clip spins, and I can see that the shaft that goes through the clutch is spinning, but the belt and clutch body themselves do not spin. I've replaced the V-belt, but the didn't fix the issue. I took the belt off and with the spin cycle activated, the clutch body was spinning just fine. Am I looking at replacing the clutch, or might it be something else? Thanks!
  14. Does any one know how to initiate the defrost cycle in this unit?    Or what the sensor reading chart is.      Have a basic wiring sheet #297246001 does not have much information in 3 different languages.    Complaint is not cooling very well.
  15. Hi gang I've got a friend with a Bosch DW and she says the regular wash cycle is never completing, it has run for 3+ hrs a few times before she has noticed it. The power scrub cycle works ( finishes) but dishes are never dry. Question is, is the turbidity sensor active on the power scrub cycle? ( because I would assume turbidity in a DW that never finishes) and gurus out there with a wash cycle schematic, or some first hand knowledge. This Is just a friend, not a paying client and I am not very familiar with the Bosch line. I do know they are one month out of 5 yr factory on the board ( isn't it always the case) Many Thanks.
  16. Well, Replaced the cracked glass top on this range. I guess may have had one of the burner connections touching a tab on the metal underside of the top. Started range up and oven, clock & light worked fine. Turned one burner on and lit up fast then went POW with a orange flash under the top. Burner is fried, but the main control board shut off also. Have I blown the main control board also or is there a safety fuse/cutout to protect it from shorts ? I didn't see any burned areas on the board although there are some on the burner which will be replaced. I have not reassembled yet waiting on a new burner assembly. Any way to check the board without reassembling everything ?   Thanks in advance
  17. HI all,   I have a Sub-Zero 700-TCI, SN M1661963. It's working fine after having a new compressor installed, last year. But the icemaker has not been functioning over the last week or so (hard to tell exactly when it stopped).   I've done the first tests, jumping the T and H holes and nothing happened. The unit is getting power, though, as power is coming from the V hole and I can hear some noise coming from the machine. No water, no movement that I can detect. My manual refers to the ejector position as a diagnostic tool, but doesn't bother to explain what the ejector looks like let alone what the 2:00 or 3:00 or whatever positions are. But it does say "replace icemaker modular head" if the unit doesn't run when jumping the T and H. Sound right? Or is there something more basic to check before buying parts?   I ask about the latter because I did have the water off a couple times, recently, replacing a hot water heater. Don't know if that might have affected the icemaker's water supply (it shouldn't, since I don't make ice with hot water!).   Thanks,   Franz
  18. Anyone happen to have a manual for this old timer. Sorry it is a KDS 18
  19. Maytag Bravos   m/n: MVWB3000WQO Clean Cycle shows and estimatedtime of 1:02 and then with in minutes shows 0:04 and stops running. Rest of cycles operate correctly.    
  20. The LSN2000PW1 washing machine stops mid cycle and does not restart. Instead it makes an electric sounding grinding noise every five minutes and the agitator tries to move back and forth. This noise and motion last about 20 seconds and then the washer sits stagnant until it happens again 5 minutes later. It is not the lid switch.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=It_bw6_emV4&feature=youtu.be The youtube link is to a video of the washing machine while making the noise.
  21. Replaced motor/controller in Jan. 2014. Now fills and starts to agitate, then shuts off. Advanced timer to spin, pumps out and starts to spin, then shuts off. Could it be another motor/controller? Is there any warranty on this part?
  22. The timer knob when pushed in to select the wash cycle does not turn the timer knob bezel (wash cycle knob).  One has to manually turn the wash cycle knob to select the desired cycle.  I've replaced the timer knob and timer knob bezel, both had cracks which appears to be the result of pushing into to hard to engage the wash cycle.  In addition, I cannot remove the timer knob or bezel without having to access the timer shaft and holding the shaft and then spin off the knobs.   My next move is a new timer.  Any suggestions?   Thank you.   Paul
  23. I am hoping to get some advice on the next steps regarding my defrost issue with my fridge.    It started with the fridge not defrosting and quite a bit of learning after that.   Symptoms: Fridge/freezer runs fine until the coils freeze with ice and the fridge warms up. If I initiate a defrost test the fans/compressor stop as designed by the defrost heater does not appear to warm. After a certain amount of time the fans start back up and the fridge stays warm while the freezer continues to cool.   Steps I have done: Replaced both freezer thermistors. Show ohms count at 0 degrees at approximately 40,000 which is in the right range. Tested the temperature overload device and show it has continuity when it is below 45 degrees. Tested continuity from the main control board through the defrost heater when the freezer is cold and it shows 38 ohms which is correct based off of the schematics. Replaced main control board that I ordered off Amazon (No change)   As everything shows good except the board I decided to purchase another board. Here is where I am scratching my head. I received the new board yesterday. Installed it and let the freezer/fridge cool down. When I started the defrost test there was a huge pop and sparking in the main control board area. I opened it up and the new board was charred on a resistor directly above the defrost heater power. The resistor has a J16 right next to it. I looked at the original board and while it doesn't have the same amount of damage that resistor also appears to be shot.    So the question is, if all the defrost heater components show good, is there something else that is bad? Was it just a bad board? What other dependencies are there and does that resistor point to a problem elsewhere?   Thanks in advance,   Travis           
  24. Washer Fills, agitates, and drains fine. However, when it starts the spin cycle the motor runs and pulley spins and the transmission just sits there. After about 30 seconds you can start to smell the belt in the pulley. I can't move the tub by hand, nor can I move the transmission by hand. it seems stuck only in the spin cycle. Would the transmission be gone already in this model? I'll take any pointers I can. Oh yea, if it is the transmission, is it worth repairing?   Thank you.
  25. This washer varies its behavior. I ran the diagnostics and all steps worked but the owner says it does not work properly when used normally. I suspect control board or "power board" as shown in parts diagram. It seems to me from looking at the schematic that the power board only has relays and delivers power when told to by the control board. I can't tell more from the vague schematic in the mini manual. They both cost about $400 it seems and changing one at a time is pricey. I am thinking that the control board is more likely at fault but can't see a way to determine it precisely. Any suggestions? thanks!