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  1. Samsung RF4267HA Refrigerator Fast Track View File Samsung Refrigerator Fast track covering models   RF4267HABP/XAA RF4267HARS/XAA RF4267HAWP/XAA publication tsRf4267HA   Date 12/20/2011 Submitter DurhamAppliance Submitted 02/02/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  2. Version 1.0.0

    11 downloads

    Samsung Refrigerator Fast track covering models   RF4267HABP/XAA RF4267HARS/XAA RF4267HAWP/XAA publication tsRf4267HA   Date 12/20/2011
  3. My Maytag washer (MDB8959SBS2) is acting possessed as of late. Lately, it has started beeping fits (it just randomly beeps) and getting the dishwasher to select the correct profile is a game of wack a mole. Additionally, now it has a blinking "control lock" light that will not extinguish even after the dishwasher has been power cycled. I took apart the front panel and checked and I can see plenty of corrosion inside the flat ribbon cable between the control panel and ECU. After I cleaned the connector as best I could, I put it back together and ran a normal cycle. After the cycle ran and appears to have completed, it started the random beeping again. Additionally, now the control lock light is blinking and I can't seem to get it out of this state. Thanks in advance for you help! Nate
  4. Initially, my Whirlpool Cabrio Model #WTW5640XW0 Top Loading Washer wouldn't start at all yesterday. I've had issues lately with it taking numerous attempts before it would start. After trying for 1/2 a day to get the Diagnostic Test Mode to start, it showed F5 E1 Code (Lid Switch Fault). Today, I finally figured out how to do Automatic & Manual Tests. The Automatic Test resulted in Flashing Lid Lock LED each time with blank display. The Manual Test could only be performed up to checking the Wash 08 display as the Flashing Lid Lock LED wouldn't allow me to properly do the spin and agitation tests (LEDs only flashed & beeped as indicated due to lid not being locked). When I ran another Diagnostic Code Test, I saw F5 E1; F2 E1; F7 E1; F0 E0.  I manually turned the basket & it turns freely.   At this point, each test for the codes (F5 E1 and F7 E1) requires access to the main control. What should I do at this point? I really need to get this resolved quickly as my OCD tendencies won't allow me to quit and I need to do laundry.    Thanks in advance, Charleene    
  5. Heavy monogram doors tend to sag with age. GE has a hinge kit for this issue but they also made a 12" x 3" riser grey/silver in color. it was plastic and it mounted on the top of  ff/fz door to better close the light switches. Engineering came out with this as a fix for the problem after seen the problem develop in the field so it didn't come stock on any of the units as far as I know. Anyone know of a list of GE's rework/after market parts or know of the part I am referring to?
  6. The door lock engaged on its own It locked and wouldn't unlock. I tested the lock motor and got it to unlock. The motor for the lock is operating correctly. Could the board have cause this temp issue. Is there any danger since this unit is doing things on its own ? Thanks !
  7. The "normal" cycle won't come on when pushed and, as expected, the red light on it doesn't come on.    But sometimes normal will work if I push in hard at top of door at the same time that I push "normal" pad.   Thus, I suspect a mechanical problem in actuating the door switch. In trying to gain access to the door switch, I have not been able to separate the inside panel of the door enough to get to that switch.  I have removed the 8 screws around the edge of that panel. but something inward of the edge of the panel is preventing me from lifting it right off the door.  I have no assembly dwgs, but doubt that I will need them if  can get to the switch in the door. Does anyone know what would be preventing separation of the inner panel from the door?
  8. Does anyone have a technician's guide to the ASKO W600 washer? The latch on the door finally broke and I just received a new door (ordered the sensor too... just in case). Now I just want to collect a manual in case I need to take the sucker apart. The manual that came with the machine is not technical. Thanks all.
  9. i have changed the latch and striker on this d/w but the door pops open while running i think the hinges need to be straightened does anyone of an easy way to do this thanks
  10. Version

    20 downloads

    Service Manual 27’ French Door Bottom Freezer Refrigerator (Dispenser & Non-Dispenser models) Including model EI27BS26JSB
  11. File Name: Electrolux 27 cu ft FDBM Refrigerator Service Manual File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 06 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Service Manual 27’ French Door Bottom Freezer Refrigerator (Dispenser & Non-Dispenser models) Including model EI27BS26JSB Click here to download this file
  12. Hello,   I have a Frigidaire GLD2445RFC2 dishwasher that my 6 year old accidentally fell on the opened door.  I removed the front cover and pulled the DW out slightly to inspect the hinges and cannot see anything that is obviously bent.  I also do not see where the hinge is supposed to make the physical contact to stop the door from going below horizontal to see what might be bent.  The only thing I can see is a formed imprint in the metal hinge that looks like it might be in the right place to stop the hinge on the frame.    Could someone tell / show me where the physical contact point is to stop the door at horizontal so that I can better diagnose the over extension of the DW door?     Thanks! Dennis
  13. File Name: GE Service Bulletin - 24 Inch Range Door Not Closing File Submitter: Strathy File Submitted: 04 Sep 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Door not closing at the top on 24" GE Ranges.   Models JACS730 JACS745   Service Letter 15-RA-02   Published Sept, 2015 Click here to download this file
  14. Version

    17 downloads

    Door not closing at the top on 24" GE Ranges.   Models JACS730 JACS745   Service Letter 15-RA-02   Published Sept, 2015
  15. We have an older whirlpool duet washer.  We have been getting an intermittent F-DL code (door lock changed about a year ago), and just got an F-11 error.  The washer had started, and was locked.  I removed the lower front panel to get to the tab to release the door and get the wet clothes out.   We watched a troubleshooting video, and can hear the solenoid (?) clicking.    We have checked the wiring contacts, and now I'm wondering if I can easily tell if the plastic door lock mechanism has indeed died again.  I unhooked it, and when I put it on the open door, when I pulled on the manual release, nothing happened.  My husband was able to jiggle it and get it off.  Do I need a new one again?   Thanks.  Lisa
  16. This stack W/D has been a real workhorse, requiring little maintenance while running 3-400 loads/year for nearly 14 years.  A couple days ago, I started a load and all seemed normal, tub began filling immediately.  I passed by the washer a few minutes later and noticed both the power and door locked lights off, so I mashed the washer start button.  No go. As long as the button was depressed, the on light would come on and the washer would attempt to start, but never fully get started.  I tried leaving the door open, depressing the door switch manually, and pressing the start button, same result.  I let it sit for an hour, or so, then opened the washer door and closed it with a little more force than normal (pretty much slammed it), hit start, and it ran through a full permanent press cycle.  I  noticed, however, the door locked light remained off (I didn't try pulling on the door while the cycle was running to test the lock).  I figured I got lucky.  I ran a load last night on Regular, beginning with a pretty good door slam and it ran through normally until some time during the second rinse and stopped, both lights off.  This time, I left the door closed and just pressed the start button.  It started back up with the power light on and after a minute or two, the door locked light came on, too.  It finished the cycle after that.   I did some searching around and found this MLE200AYW post regarding a bad Inlet Valve (http://appliantology.org/topic/36224-maytag-neptune-mle2000ayw-stacking-washer-keep-stopping/) so that is one possibility.  I also wonder about the door switch itself, since a little slam seems to help it limp along.  I would much appreciate any opinions/ideas.  Thanks!   -J
  17. Hi:    I have a client that contacted me regarding his FDBM snowing in the freezer. He says that it looks like the slide gears are miss-aligned not letting the drawer fully close. Looking at the pic of the slide it looks to me that the right and left glides should re-sync if they are pushed all the way closed (to the back).  Is there a "trick" to syncing the drawer gears on this model? Any tips on making the freezer drawer/door adjustments would be greatly appreciated.           Thanks,               John
  18. I spent about three hours perusing most of the posts on this french door unit that I could find. I was unable to find a post, or a download, that could assist me in removing the ice maker.    My situation looks like the valve slowly leaked water into the ice maker and caused it to bind up and crack up the tray. There was also water frozen in the bottom of the dispenser drawer, sticking the cubes together.    The top plastic cover with the styrofoam was chewed up slightly, and when I showed it to my customer she exclaimed "that's where all that funny white stuff came from." When I dropped the motor head down and then the ice tray, the thermistor fell down and the wiring was chafed at the rubbery end of thermistor.   There is ice and water dripping down on the back wall directly under the ice maker area.   My question is: How to remove the ice maker? How to remove the auger motor/head? How to best extricate the frozen fill tube or at least defrost it? I watched an outdated ice maker removal video and read numerous posts and Q&A's on the parts site. I also have downloaded all the recent files on this but cannot locate instructions for working on this. Did I miss something somewhere?    Domo to all...
  19. Hi:  I recently acquired an older GE P7 slide in range from a friend.  I'm going to use it in a new house I'm building, for a retro effect.  Everything works we think, even the clock.  No enamel chips!   It does need an oven door gasket, and those chrome or stainless plates under the burners,  I can't get a match on Google on the Model #.  The plate reads JM930R4HT.   Anybody have a way to look this up?.   Many thanks,  Tommy
  20. I replaced the water inlet valve on my U-Line CLR2060 ice machine in February and it failed last week.  Of course the place I bought the part from has a 90-day warranty on parts.  Before I spend another $50 on a U-Line 2552a valve, I thought I'd check here with a thought/question:   Aren't these all pretty much the same and just have different inlet/outlet connectors and mounting brackets?  If I find a similar (i.e. 120V,60hz,20W) solenoid & valve wither either the same fittings or I adapt my fittings, won't that work?   Thanks for any input and apologies if it's a "dumb question".   
  21. I have a GE Monogram ZISS360NMCS refrigerator / freezer that is having a problem. We noticed water dripping down the front right edge around the door seal and it was coming from under the compressor.  We cleaned it up and it stopped.  Then we noticed that the frame around the freezer door was excessively hot, almost too hot to hold your hand on it.  The freezer went from it's normal 4 degrees up to 18 degrees and did not get any colder.  The heat was transferred through the door and felt really warm on the left edge on the front.  It is almost like the defrosting heater element is stuck on.  Does anyone have any ideas on what would be causing this or what I should do?  Thanks.  John
  22. It happens several times a day.  All three door switches, both cams and both brackets have been replaced, as well as the control board.  It doesn't give the message when the door is open, so it's not  just a 'close door' message.  Wiggling the door doesn't do it, so it's not a switch that is barely closing.  All the wiring to and from the switches checks out.  The Whirlpool tech line says it has to be a problem with the door switches and won't give any other possibility.
  23. Does anyone know whether the door swing can be reversed on the Whirlpool Duet GGW9250WPO dryer and the Whirlpool Duet GHW9400PWO washer??  The dryer appears as if it might be able to be accomplished but washer looks less promising.  They are both about 2005-2006 vintage machines.  Any one had any experience with this?  Thanks for your comments.
  24. I have a 2001 Frigidaire Range.  Three times recently the motorized oven door lock has activated and locked the door without the Self-Cleaning feature being selected.  Twice it happened when the oven was in use.  The 3rd time was about 15 minutes after the oven had been turned off.    Looking at the Wiring Diagram, it appears that the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) is the only thing that could cause this failure.  I can't see how a motor failure could do it.  The EOC is a very pricey unit.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the logical place for the failure?   Also, my tenant is afraid that the self-cleaning cycle is going to start on its own, but I have told them that the motor wouldn't start the self-cleaning cycle.  Yet, if the EOC is failing, I suppose it could cause that failure also.  Should they be concerned?   Thank you!
  25. Went out on a Jenn-Air duel fuel slide in range  MOD: JDS9860P last week.  Had F1 and F3 error codes so I replaced the Main control (overheating error) and the temp sensor.  I also replace the door hinges p/n 74011140 and the oven door gasket b/c it looked like the door wasn't closing all the way at the top which would have caused the overheating on the control.   The hinge replacement didn't make the door close any more than before.  But reading in another post on Jenn Air oven door hinge replacement they said its normal for the door to stick out a bit further at the top than the bottom.     My problem is when the new hinges were installed and the door slid back down on the hinges, the door feels very loose. Although it felt loose like this with the old hinges on as well. When I go to open and close it, the door doesn't open and close in one smooth motion.  There is play at the bottom of the door and it just doesn't feel secure on the hinges.  I tried multiple times re-sliding the door back on the hinges but it always does the same thing.     I've watched numerous hinge installation videos for these same hinges, followed them exactly, and still cannot figure out why the door is opening/closing this way.  What am I missing?  Any ideas?