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  1. Samsung RF4267HA Refrigerator Fast Track View File Samsung Refrigerator Fast track covering models   RF4267HABP/XAA RF4267HARS/XAA RF4267HAWP/XAA publication tsRf4267HA   Date 12/20/2011 Submitter DurhamAppliance Submitted 02/02/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  2. Version 1.0.0


    Samsung Refrigerator Fast track covering models   RF4267HABP/XAA RF4267HARS/XAA RF4267HAWP/XAA publication tsRf4267HA   Date 12/20/2011
  3. Main seal leaking and drum when spinning is growling. Main seal and bearing right?  Has anyone made this repair on this model? Any suggestions on what parts I should order?I did read through the existing posts on here and found someone recommended part # wh45x24614. Is that going to cover me all together for a leaking and noisy main?
  4. My Whirlpool WTW4950XW3 top loader recently had a tub seal failure.  When this happens, water goes right to (and through?) the bearing.  After replacing the seal, I have the dreaded train sound / roar. These models don't have the bearing replacement kit, the gearcase is considered non-servicable.  Net is I have to replace the gearcase.  I did read another thread about drilling rivets and replacing a 6006 bearing, but that's not in the cards at this point. My question is: how long can I run this?  I just need to get through the holidays and then I will decide on repair/replace.  What is the failure mode if I go too long with it? Thanks for your time.
  5. Hello folks, I'm about to replace the tub seal on my Whirlpool washer model WTW4950XW3.  (part # is W10324647) One of the how-to's I saw instructs you to remove EVERYTHING attached to the transmission - motor, pulley, splutch/drive gear, capacitor, actuator - then remove the transmission assembly so as to access the tub seal. Is all that necessary?  I figure I can unhook wiring and the belt, then take the whole thing off in one piece.  I really would rather not touch the pulley bolt, as I hear those things like to come loose.   It can't be -that- heavy can it?   Maybe remove just the motor and leave the rest ?     Thanks for any wisdom you can share.
  6. Heavy monogram doors tend to sag with age. GE has a hinge kit for this issue but they also made a 12" x 3" riser grey/silver in color. it was plastic and it mounted on the top of  ff/fz door to better close the light switches. Engineering came out with this as a fix for the problem after seen the problem develop in the field so it didn't come stock on any of the units as far as I know. Anyone know of a list of GE's rework/after market parts or know of the part I am referring to?
  7. The door lock engaged on its own It locked and wouldn't unlock. I tested the lock motor and got it to unlock. The motor for the lock is operating correctly. Could the board have cause this temp issue. Is there any danger since this unit is doing things on its own ? Thanks !
  8. The "normal" cycle won't come on when pushed and, as expected, the red light on it doesn't come on.    But sometimes normal will work if I push in hard at top of door at the same time that I push "normal" pad.   Thus, I suspect a mechanical problem in actuating the door switch. In trying to gain access to the door switch, I have not been able to separate the inside panel of the door enough to get to that switch.  I have removed the 8 screws around the edge of that panel. but something inward of the edge of the panel is preventing me from lifting it right off the door.  I have no assembly dwgs, but doubt that I will need them if  can get to the switch in the door. Does anyone know what would be preventing separation of the inner panel from the door?
  9. Does anyone have a technician's guide to the ASKO W600 washer? The latch on the door finally broke and I just received a new door (ordered the sensor too... just in case). Now I just want to collect a manual in case I need to take the sucker apart. The manual that came with the machine is not technical. Thanks all.
  10. Gtup240em1ww inner tub stuck on spindle. I managed to remove the tub nut by breaking it. The tub seems to be frozen on to the shaft coming through the bottom. There is a cogged thing formed on to the metal bottom of the tub. I've watched a couple videos and haven't seen anything like this. The spindle is square with rounded corners. The corners are threaded for the tub nut. The tub bottom looks like there is no wiggle room to get over the threads. It can't be threaded either as the cogged thing looks to be formed around the spindle. Is this thing just frozen on with rust and dirt or am I missing something? Please help. Thanks
  11. i have changed the latch and striker on this d/w but the door pops open while running i think the hinges need to be straightened does anyone of an easy way to do this thanks
  12. Version


    Service Manual 27’ French Door Bottom Freezer Refrigerator (Dispenser & Non-Dispenser models) Including model EI27BS26JSB
  13. File Name: Electrolux 27 cu ft FDBM Refrigerator Service Manual File Submitter: DurhamAppliance File Submitted: 06 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Service Manual 27’ French Door Bottom Freezer Refrigerator (Dispenser & Non-Dispenser models) Including model EI27BS26JSB Click here to download this file
  14. Hello,   I have a Frigidaire GLD2445RFC2 dishwasher that my 6 year old accidentally fell on the opened door.  I removed the front cover and pulled the DW out slightly to inspect the hinges and cannot see anything that is obviously bent.  I also do not see where the hinge is supposed to make the physical contact to stop the door from going below horizontal to see what might be bent.  The only thing I can see is a formed imprint in the metal hinge that looks like it might be in the right place to stop the hinge on the frame.    Could someone tell / show me where the physical contact point is to stop the door at horizontal so that I can better diagnose the over extension of the DW door?     Thanks! Dennis
  15. File Name: GE Service Bulletin - 24 Inch Range Door Not Closing File Submitter: Strathy File Submitted: 04 Sep 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Door not closing at the top on 24" GE Ranges.   Models JACS730 JACS745   Service Letter 15-RA-02   Published Sept, 2015 Click here to download this file
  16. Version


    Door not closing at the top on 24" GE Ranges.   Models JACS730 JACS745   Service Letter 15-RA-02   Published Sept, 2015
  17. Hi folks,   I put my WF409ANW/XAA together with new spider, bearings, and shaft seal and ran it for a few loads.  I had a bad feeling about the shaft seal placement and took it apart again.   Videos on Youtube tend to say you should just knock the seal in until it's flush.  On this model, if I do that, the seal lip runs up off the machined surface and very close to the back of the spider.  I tested this by smearing grease on the spider bracket, installing the drum in the tub, spinning it, and pulling it back out, observing where the grease was displaced.   If I push the seal all the way in so it bottoms out, the rearmost seal lip rides too far aft on the spider, so that it's at the very edge.  I could tell this by the wear-in lines forming on the new spider.  So it looks like I need to set the seal in about 0.1" recessed, neither flush at the top nor pushed all the way in.  This is very irritating because it's going to be hard to get the sucker straight without resorting to a caliper.  Is there a better way to do this, such as by putting shims behind the seal?  How do mere mortals do this??   I noticed that the old spider came out with an O-ring with a steel washer sitting on top of it.  The steel washer gets sandwiched between the O-ring and the inner bearing when the shaft is installed.  The new spider came with the O-ring but not the washer.  I can't find the washer anywhere in a part diagram.  The washer contributes to the seal spacing issue, but I'm hesitant to remove it.  Is the washer considered part of the drum/bearing assembly even though it comes out with the spider shaft?  It's very sharp like it could easily nick the seal.   Thanks!
  18. We have an older whirlpool duet washer.  We have been getting an intermittent F-DL code (door lock changed about a year ago), and just got an F-11 error.  The washer had started, and was locked.  I removed the lower front panel to get to the tab to release the door and get the wet clothes out.   We watched a troubleshooting video, and can hear the solenoid (?) clicking.    We have checked the wiring contacts, and now I'm wondering if I can easily tell if the plastic door lock mechanism has indeed died again.  I unhooked it, and when I put it on the open door, when I pulled on the manual release, nothing happened.  My husband was able to jiggle it and get it off.  Do I need a new one again?   Thanks.  Lisa
  19. This stack W/D has been a real workhorse, requiring little maintenance while running 3-400 loads/year for nearly 14 years.  A couple days ago, I started a load and all seemed normal, tub began filling immediately.  I passed by the washer a few minutes later and noticed both the power and door locked lights off, so I mashed the washer start button.  No go. As long as the button was depressed, the on light would come on and the washer would attempt to start, but never fully get started.  I tried leaving the door open, depressing the door switch manually, and pressing the start button, same result.  I let it sit for an hour, or so, then opened the washer door and closed it with a little more force than normal (pretty much slammed it), hit start, and it ran through a full permanent press cycle.  I  noticed, however, the door locked light remained off (I didn't try pulling on the door while the cycle was running to test the lock).  I figured I got lucky.  I ran a load last night on Regular, beginning with a pretty good door slam and it ran through normally until some time during the second rinse and stopped, both lights off.  This time, I left the door closed and just pressed the start button.  It started back up with the power light on and after a minute or two, the door locked light came on, too.  It finished the cycle after that.   I did some searching around and found this MLE200AYW post regarding a bad Inlet Valve ( so that is one possibility.  I also wonder about the door switch itself, since a little slam seems to help it limp along.  I would much appreciate any opinions/ideas.  Thanks!   -J
  20. Hi:    I have a client that contacted me regarding his FDBM snowing in the freezer. He says that it looks like the slide gears are miss-aligned not letting the drawer fully close. Looking at the pic of the slide it looks to me that the right and left glides should re-sync if they are pushed all the way closed (to the back).  Is there a "trick" to syncing the drawer gears on this model? Any tips on making the freezer drawer/door adjustments would be greatly appreciated.           Thanks,               John
  21. I spent about three hours perusing most of the posts on this french door unit that I could find. I was unable to find a post, or a download, that could assist me in removing the ice maker.    My situation looks like the valve slowly leaked water into the ice maker and caused it to bind up and crack up the tray. There was also water frozen in the bottom of the dispenser drawer, sticking the cubes together.    The top plastic cover with the styrofoam was chewed up slightly, and when I showed it to my customer she exclaimed "that's where all that funny white stuff came from." When I dropped the motor head down and then the ice tray, the thermistor fell down and the wiring was chafed at the rubbery end of thermistor.   There is ice and water dripping down on the back wall directly under the ice maker area.   My question is: How to remove the ice maker? How to remove the auger motor/head? How to best extricate the frozen fill tube or at least defrost it? I watched an outdated ice maker removal video and read numerous posts and Q&A's on the parts site. I also have downloaded all the recent files on this but cannot locate instructions for working on this. Did I miss something somewhere?    Domo to all...
  22. Hi:  I recently acquired an older GE P7 slide in range from a friend.  I'm going to use it in a new house I'm building, for a retro effect.  Everything works we think, even the clock.  No enamel chips!   It does need an oven door gasket, and those chrome or stainless plates under the burners,  I can't get a match on Google on the Model #.  The plate reads JM930R4HT.   Anybody have a way to look this up?.   Many thanks,  Tommy
  23. I have a GE Monogram ZISS360NMCS refrigerator / freezer that is having a problem. We noticed water dripping down the front right edge around the door seal and it was coming from under the compressor.  We cleaned it up and it stopped.  Then we noticed that the frame around the freezer door was excessively hot, almost too hot to hold your hand on it.  The freezer went from it's normal 4 degrees up to 18 degrees and did not get any colder.  The heat was transferred through the door and felt really warm on the left edge on the front.  It is almost like the defrosting heater element is stuck on.  Does anyone have any ideas on what would be causing this or what I should do?  Thanks.  John
  24. It happens several times a day.  All three door switches, both cams and both brackets have been replaced, as well as the control board.  It doesn't give the message when the door is open, so it's not  just a 'close door' message.  Wiggling the door doesn't do it, so it's not a switch that is barely closing.  All the wiring to and from the switches checks out.  The Whirlpool tech line says it has to be a problem with the door switches and won't give any other possibility.
  25. We've been having mysterious black marks on our clothes after washing and drying.  The mysterious part is that the black marks appeared more often on "corners" of clothing and sheets than in the "field" of the clothing/sheets.  Seems we've tracked the culprit down to the dryer and the groove that the drum rides in.  I confirmed my suspicions by sticking a corner of a folded up paper towel into the groove/gap that the dryer's drum moves in and then hand turning the drum letting the paper towel travel with the drum.  The result was a black mark *very* similar to what has been appearing on our washed items appeared.   The dryer is a Whirlpool WED5540SQ.  I have the part #587636 (Maintenance Kit) in the cart but I'm wondering whether I should also order part #2813247 (Felt Seal)?  Or, can I simply clean up the old felt seal some with a rag?   I haven't opened the dryer up yet.   Thanks, Ed   ETA:  Well, I decided to go ahead and order the felt seal along with the maintenance kit.  Repair Clinic makes it easy to return it if I need to but something tells me it will be a good idea to replace the felt as I'm not sure I'd be able to clean the original felt good enough.  Plus, has the felt worn, also, allowing clothing articles to get into the groove along with worn rollers?  Any feedback is still appreciated, but parts are heading my way...and hopefully some brownie points (or maybe some glorified brownies!) from my wife!!!!!