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  1. I Understand that this is a communication error but even after it is cleared by reseting the breaker I have two additional problems that makes me hesitant.  First the microwave does not heat, it runs but doesn't heat.  Second, after you program M/W and start it the lights for the display all go out.  It doesn't do this when you program the oven only the M/W. All ribbon connections are tight, took off and reattached so I'm assuming we may have either a control problem or a touch pad.  Any input?  
  2. I have a Bosch Vision 500 WFVC540SUC washing machine with irregular performance. After running diagnostics I find d:06 C:01 and d:11 C:01. The d:06 code I believe is a faulty or stuck NTC sensor/relay. I can not find any reference to a d:11 error code after extensive web search. Have come to this site seeking sage counsel. Thanks in advance for any assistance rendered.
  3. Kind Sirs, my Electrolux window AC model FFRH1822Q2 seems to be talking to me in code. It is unwilling to work, sometimes responding to buttons/remotes while staying in economy mode, other times just starting up long enough to spit some codes at me. in sequence, it turns on all the small LCD enunciators, then puts on the two-digit 7-segment display the following numbers in sequence:   22 44 77 88   I've done some web searching with no luck - how does one interpret the message? thanks so much!   neal (grasshopper) f.
  4. Hey, The dishwasher was opened during a cycle and refused to start back up. Looking for the diagnostic codes on how to check to see if it is the control panel or control board.   Am able to do into a cycle test by pressing the high temp wash > heated dry twice, then all the lights come on then it does into a test run but after that back to not working right. The only buttons that will light up are pots and pans which starts a drain cycle with the drain cycle indicator lit, the 3 cycle options, and the cancel drain which will actually drain. Bought a service manual online which turned out was not for this specific model and didn't have the diagnostic instructions I need. Your help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, John
  5. Hi all, I have an F&P top loader washer model LW095AU, it keeps stopping at the spin cycle (runs normally until that point) when everything stops and it makes a constant soft sound like it's "trying" to do something but there's absolutely no movement or drainage. This has happened before and I tried to take the machine apart but a screw inside the tub has threaded and despite trying all the tricks I could find it just won't come out. There didn't appear to be anything blocking the tubes or motor as far as I could tell from the back and side (unless it just moved when I tipped the machine down?). When I enter diagnostic mode the binary code is 0100101 but I don't have the service manual or code chart to interpret this - can anyone help/advise? Thanks very much, Rosa Forgot to mention - it worked OK for a few months after last time, then has done it again out of the blue. Was running fine in between.
  6. While using only the oven, probe prompt started flashing and beeping.  Problem is that I wasn't using the probe.   Shortly thereafter the oven died but the burners, now in use, remained functional.  I reset the breaker and the same results ensued.  A little later,  everything died.  Killed the breaker and 23 hours later, no codes, oven dead, but the burners worked for a little while and then died.  Killed breaker again and 22 hours later, oven dead, the burners worked and after about 45 minutes the beep and the F0 code appears and the burners still work.  Is this the timer issue and what is the proper length of time for breaker/unit reset?  Anything else, as a similar event occurred 8+1/2 years prior, (I checked out unit and replaced the timer module) but those archives are no longer available.  Well, at least I can't find them.  Same stove, same house, same repair guy (me) and I think same problem.  Any thoughts brethren inebriated ones (how can "one" be plural?)?   Domo arigato Mr. Roboto,   Mr. Lee Fix
  7. Need a little help, My washer is showing and LE code most of the time and not making it through a full wash cycle. It also shows codes OE and ND once in awhile while trying to wash something. I have replaced the level sensor, the cold water valve and have made sure the washer is level. When the washer does say ND there is not a lot of water in the filter, I have shut it off after it has come up with the code and maybe a cup of water comes out, Actually I have pulled the drain filter out after all of the codes and about the same amount of water comes out. I am lost, Feel like taking it out back and using it for target practice but I think the wife would get mad. 
  8. LG TROMM WONT FILL, REPLACED THE HOT AND COLD INLET VALVES THEY WERE STARTING TO LEAK AND A SOLENIOD FOR THE COLD INLET READ OPEN CIRCUIT. AFTER REPLACING THE VALVES PLUGGED IN MACHINE AND STARTED A WASH CYCLE AND MACHINE STARTED TO OVER FILL, IT THE OFF BUTTON BUT IT KEPT FILLING TILL I UNPLUGGED MACHINE, THIS HAPPENED TWICE, ON THE 3RD START IT WOULD NO LONGER FILL AND THE IE CODE CAME BACK. THE RISISTANCE ON THE VALVES READ 1175 OHMS WITH IN SPEC. IF I RUN THE TEST FROM THE CONTROL PANEL EVERY THING WORKS BUT NOT ON A WASH CYCLE.
  9. I have a Whirlpool WTW7600XW2, last night I came home and heard the washer on.  Had not washed clothes in 1-2 days and I knew it was empty.  Sounded like drain pump running, but basket was dry, and no water from drain hose.  So the washer went from unsued/stanby mode to trying to drain for some reason.   I found troubleshooting/diagnostics document and tried to follow it.  I can put the washer in diagnostic mode with "88" displaying, but nothing else.  No stored codes, cannot enter automatic diagnostic tests, or manual tests.  Additional key presses only result in beeps.   Pressing "POWER" returns it to standby mode and drain pump keeps churning.    I ensured all connectors were plugged into motor controller board, and measured resistance to drain pump and recirc pump.  Drain pump measured 17.2 ohms (10.5 - 14 spec) and the recirc measured 33 ohms (30-38 spec).  So the drain pump is a bit high.  Pulled the drain pump, measured 16.5 ohms across pump terminals.   At this point I am unsure whether to buy a pump, or if the front panel electrnics, or motor control electonics are bad.  Failuring to enter/run diagnostics suggests bad electronics.  But the pump measures high too.  What do you experts suggest?
  10. I have a Fisher & Paykel IWL16 IntuitiveECO washer and recently had a fault code 37 issue. I removed the pump and checked for obstructions in the hoses and diverter valve. I also removed the basin and the top cover for the pump in the tub and checked for anything there as well, but everything looked good. I checked the resistance on the pump motor and it measured around 6 ohms and from what I was able to find online it looks like it should be around 33 ohms. I ordered a replacement pump from F&P and installed it along with the included 2.5A Slo-Blow fuse to protect the controller board.   The new pump has resolved the fault code 37 which is great. The problem I'm having now is that the new fuse installed is blowing. I tried a few different scenarios and it seems like it is blowing during the spin cycle. The first time I ran it was on a normal cycle with an empty tub (no clothes) and the fuse blew during spin. I replaced the fuse with a 3A Slo-Blo (what I had on hand) and then I ran a wool cycle (medium spin) with an empty tub and it completed just fine. I tried a half full load of clothes on normal/default cycle then and the fuse blew while spinning during the last few minutes of the cycle.   I called Fisher & Paykel to see if the pump I received is faulty, but since I am not a service technician I can't talk to their tech support and they directed me to call a local service center. I've put a call in there but I need to call back next week when I can get one of their techs on the phone. I'm frustrated that they won't provide any support for the new part that I just purchased. I get that they wouldn't want to flood their tech support with consumer calls, but I really want to know if I have a bad pump and should send it back. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Lately, I have been getting the "Drain Fault Check Drain" message. This is what I have done: I have cleaned everything out. The impeller on the water pump moves with resistance from the magnets.. (which should be normal) I have run different cycles, which end up with the same fault. It seems like it is forgetting to run the drain pump, which in turn when it moves on to the next step in the cycle, it can't do it because it hasn't drained the tub. Sometimes it drains just fine, other times, it won't. I have watched it with the Mastercare: Drain / Spin cycle just sit there and do nothing while the clock is counting down, then it will display the fault.   I really need some help here..since I don't have the toperation parameters for the cycles with this machine.    Also, how important is it to install the shipping struts when moving this machine (as in from one house to another)?
  12. Please need help troubleshooting a Fisher Paykel washer model # GWL10US. Error code #132.. i think, 5th light on the wash bar is blinking and the cold water light also blinking. Washer has been reset several times and when cloths are added it keeps giving me this error code. Thanks
  13. My Bosch Dishwasher SHE4AP02UC/06 gives an error code dealing with the drain pump.  It could be either E23, E24 or E25.  It does run a full wash cycle intermittently.  I ran it this morning in customer service mode and the dishes came out clean.  Is there a concern with running it in Customer service mode?  I can't get it to work otherwise.  I have tried resetting, unplugging, clearing the error codes, ensuring the sump pump drain is clear.     Any advice on how to get it to run in normal mode would be much appreciated.  But for now what risk do i run having it cycle in the special mode?   thanks  
  14. File Name: Fault Codes for All Samsung Major Appliances File Submitter: applianceman97 File Submitted: 23 Jul 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Samsung error codes. Includes refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave, washers, and dryers. Click here to download this file
  15. Version

    79 downloads

    Samsung error codes. Includes refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave, washers, and dryers.
  16. Have Daytron washer Md # mam105-s1420hgp with error codes E1 and E2 coming up.  Coustomer says washer fills and stops.  Says will pump out the water but won't do anything else.  Any ideas as what to look for.  Thanks   Doc
  17. Bearings were bad, seal was bad, leaked and threw grease/water all under machine. replaced using kit found on this forum. Grease and gunk in the stator and rotor, cleaned carefully. Spins quietly and without and smoothly. Run manual diagnostic motor tests and spin tests. Sometimes spins on high w no error but when washing clothes of errors out on f54 every time about half wy through when it spins fast. Tested all connections at motor and control unit with ohm meter, nothing out of range. Ideas? I read someone else's post and they replaced control board and same things I did but still Got error. Please advise.
  18. Large amount of lint removed from lint filter slot (below filter - not easy to access or clean on this machine).  All controls work, drum and exhaust fan work, but no heat and no error codes are displayed.  Heating element, at least when cold, shows continuity and visually appears ok.  NTC sensors test ok using an ohm meter.  I did not supply power to the machine while testing so I did not test the motor relay on the back of the machine.   1. Is there a simple way to test the control board?   2. Any other ideas of what to try next?
  19. Looking for a table of LED error codes for the Viking VDSC Series Dual Fuel Range.   My oven is heating ~10 seconds, then switches to an error code - timing looks to be 3 flashes, pause 4 seconds, repeat.  Looks to happen on broil, bake and clean modes.   Model is: CVDSC530-4BSS it is a 30" 4 burner dual fuel.   Thanks!
  20. Samsung RS265TDRS refer

    Doing a Samsung SxS ( Do not see too many of these beasts )........Complaint is  "Fresh food side warm, freezer side frozen food, O.K" .............Got there, ran diagnostic  ( per Samsung " The Diagnostic Mode is the most valuable troubleshooting tool you have"...)....Enter Diagnostics,  Code 22 E is indicated.         Check my Fast Track Trouble shooting Guide........Code 22 E is  " Freezer Defrost Heater Error "......But checking the heater,  the fan motor, in Ohms and volts, they be O.K.   But, the fresh food fan motor  has no D.C volts and the sensor has the correct volts for the temps....2.5 volts =42 degrees F by the chart ................ Is the Fast Track Troubleshooting  incorrect or am I over thinking this " Glorious piece of So. Korean engineering" .....Ordering the main board and the fresh food fan motor ( and a sensor  for truck stock ).................................P.S. checked the web for this problem,  gotta love it....Same complaint , but no one posted their repair success ( or failure) after posting the complaint................    .
  21. Hi - I have a Bosch SHE4AP06UC dishwasher that has been acting up lately. First what was happening is the wash cycles would stop short of finishing - primarily this was on the Power Scrub cycle. I have replace both control boards and am now on my second Timer / Power control board. At the time I replaced the first Power Control board the problem went from some issue mainly with Power Wash - I found Auto Wash finished properly most times - to all cycles having problems. If I put the original board back in this at least lets the Auto Wash run - but I prefer Power Wash due to the sanitizing. OK _ SO now I have my Original Control board (behind the front panel) and the second Timer/Power (Base Mounted) board installed. I downloaded the manual and ran the Self test - only allowed me to run the consumer version - start as soon as I hit < key - ant that shows results of Sanitized Light flashing and all others dark. I ran the Power Wash cycle - which ended after only about 10 minutes - and when I requested the status code for that (using the > key) it again shows only Sanitized flashing. So the problem I have now is two fold 1.) What is wrong with my dishwasher and 2,) I can not find this result in the manual I dowloaded - the manual references an SHE4AP12UC, but not he 06 like I have. Any thoughts on what this might be? I am going to put my original board back in there tonight I think and see what that shows. By the way - I am pretty dure based on the notes in the service manual and how hot the dishes were when the test finished - that the test all worked. THanks for any suggestions. Perry
  22. File Name: Dacor CPS Oven Tech Bundle File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 14 Mar 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Dacor CPS Oven Classic ERC failure codes CPS_WD (wiring diagram) Diagnostic_Manual FSBs_CPD-CPS-2013-06-24b-Web (service bulletins) PC-CPS-CPD-2013-04-22-Web (parts) Click here to download this file
  23. Version

    107 downloads

    Dacor CPS Oven Classic ERC failure codes CPS_WD (wiring diagram) Diagnostic_Manual FSBs_CPD-CPS-2013-06-24b-Web (service bulletins) PC-CPS-CPD-2013-04-22-Web (parts)
  24. My wife noticed an odd burnt smell, like plastic not food, coming from the upper oven while cooking. We emptied and looked all about the interior of the oven expecting to find some odd bit of plastic had fallen in. Then while discussing "what now" the control panel made a very loud snap and flash of light -- which tripped the circuit breaker.   I'm thinking that smoke and grease build-up inside the control panel may have arced over, but perhaps there's worse than that awaiting me. This occurred a week or so after running a self-cleaning cycle, but nothing appeared wrong at that time, and the oven had been used at least once more after the cleaning without incident. So I don't know if the cleaning cycle is relevant or not.   I have the "Care and Use Manual" as well as the Installation Instructions, but I was hoping to find an assembly drawing or other way to confirm that simply removing the obvious row of screws on the bottom side of the panel is the right next step towards repair or (likely) replacing the control PCB. The Thermador site was a bust for manuals, too old I guess.   Any advice for the wary but experienced DIY appliance fixer?  
  25. Please Help!   I have a Bosch vision 500 washing machine (WFVC6450uc/29 / FD 9104/ 902348) with a 2 yr warranty that stopped spinning after 2yrs and 3mo.  I told my wife "I can fix that" and not to call the repair man.  She rolled her eyes and told me I have until Monday to fix it until the repair man comes.  So I have started my research and diagnostic work, but have run into a bit of a snag and have a few questions that I am hoping you Appliance geniuses can help me out with before I have to eat my words on Monday.   The washer will run, fill with water and pump water.  The door lock works and all electronic displays work.  No error message is displayed (until running the diagnostic test).  The only thing that is not working is the spinning/agitation of the drum.  There is no obstruction on the drum.  It spins freely in both directions by hand.  A wash cycle will start normally, but when the agitation stage comes, all is still for a few minutes the the drain pump starts and the cycle continues until spin stage when all goes still again.   Let me give a little back ground as to what I have done so far.  1) Opened and cleaned the drain pump, also the sump leading to the pump. 2) Inspected belts and motor...all look brand new.  (slight belt dust and that is all.) 3) Ran diagnostic test and error code E09 and E20 came up and D10. which from the WFVC manual I downloaded from this site (thank you) I learned that the codes indicate         "No Communication between control and inverter" -- check wire harness   So I checked all wire connections to the motor from the motor control board and have traced the wires to the front control panel where all wires look plugged in and fine.   My next step is to use a multimeter to test the connections and motor for volts, amps, but I honestly have no idea how to use the multimeter on a washer or if that will even let me know where the "communication" is failing.   Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated...before my "pride" deadline on Monday.  Thank you!