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  1. Not exactly sure I'm in the right forum for this question, but it's kind of a mixture of two... I got a call this week from a moving company.  They wanted me to go out and take a look at a washing machine (LG WF410ANR) that a client of theirs said was no longer working after the move from California to Tennessee. The moving company, of course, was responsible for any damages.  It was explained to me that the moving company hires a third-party technician to come out and prepare the machine for a move like this.  Not sure what that entails exactly but the lady on the phone seemed to suggest they take it apart a bit and stabilize the drum, and whatever. That's all I really know or she knew. The problem was that the drum wouldn't turn.  I tried a diagnostic and got error code HD 43.  That's not in the manual.  Didn't find anything with a net search, so I say factory code, move on.  I tried turning the drum by hand but was only able to do so with great difficulty.  It was definitely scraping the outer tub.  Upon inspecting the back of the machine I noticed that the bolt holding on the rotor seemed to be nicked up a bit. Odd... Now I've only taken off that bolt maybe three or four times in my short experience, but it's always been fairly easy to do so.  Maybe I've just been lucky in the past, but when I tried to get this one off it wouldn't budge, and I'm no lightweight!  I eventually had to go out to my vehicle, get a hammer, and pound on my wrench in order to get it off!  Didn't see anything out of the ordinary after I finally got it off. I noticed on the front (see pics) that the inner tub was misaligned. (Uncentered?  How would you say that?)  I stuck my finger in the gaps on either side, there was about 1/2 inch difference.  What I'm wondering are basically two things:  Could the third-party tech have bent something by tightening that bolt too much?  If so, what, in your opinion, would have gotten bent, or broken?  The rear drum support?  I ask because this is getting beyond my experience, and the moving company says they may possibly seek compensation from the third-party for damaging the washer.  I don't think the movers would be able to do this without breaking or denting something else, like dropping it or something.  Other than this, the machine didn't have a scratch on it. Opinions please?
  2. File Name: Kenmore 417.40412700 Washer Tech Sheet File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 24 Oct 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB 134576400 Click here to download this file
  3. Version

    19 downloads

    PUB 134576400
  4. Does not leak when washing only when it drains.  Only wash motor no seperate drain motor.  As soon as begins to drain, water pours over tub onto floor. 
  5. Version

    25 downloads

    More detailed troubleshooting information for tricky problems with Samsung FL washers.
  6. File Name: Samsung Front Load Washer Troubleshooting Symptom Guide File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 24 Sep 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper More detailed troubleshooting information for tricky problems with Samsung FL washers. Click here to download this file
  7. Hi folks,   I put my WF409ANW/XAA together with new spider, bearings, and shaft seal and ran it for a few loads.  I had a bad feeling about the shaft seal placement and took it apart again.   Videos on Youtube tend to say you should just knock the seal in until it's flush.  On this model, if I do that, the seal lip runs up off the machined surface and very close to the back of the spider.  I tested this by smearing grease on the spider bracket, installing the drum in the tub, spinning it, and pulling it back out, observing where the grease was displaced.   If I push the seal all the way in so it bottoms out, the rearmost seal lip rides too far aft on the spider, so that it's at the very edge.  I could tell this by the wear-in lines forming on the new spider.  So it looks like I need to set the seal in about 0.1" recessed, neither flush at the top nor pushed all the way in.  This is very irritating because it's going to be hard to get the sucker straight without resorting to a caliper.  Is there a better way to do this, such as by putting shims behind the seal?  How do mere mortals do this??   I noticed that the old spider came out with an O-ring with a steel washer sitting on top of it.  The steel washer gets sandwiched between the O-ring and the inner bearing when the shaft is installed.  The new spider came with the O-ring but not the washer.  I can't find the washer anywhere in a part diagram.  The washer contributes to the seal spacing issue, but I'm hesitant to remove it.  Is the washer considered part of the drum/bearing assembly even though it comes out with the spider shaft?  It's very sharp like it could easily nick the seal.   Thanks!
  8. Version

    78 downloads

    Bulletin for re-loacting the drain pump on Samsung top load washers.   PUB ASC20131127001 version 2   11/27/2013
  9. File Name: Samsung WA400 WA422 WA456 Washer Pump Service Bulletin File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 29 Aug 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Bulletin for re-loacting the drain pump on Samsung top load washers.   PUB ASC20131127001 version 2   11/27/2013 Click here to download this file
  10. Thanks in advance for any help to a site newbie.   I have a 7 yr old LG WM2688HNM front loading washer that has performed flawlessly until two weeks back.  Started with an error in mid cycle indicating a drain problem.  Did some initial troubleshooting and ended up getting another week of service before things really ground to a halt.  Bottom line, the machine would stop with about 13 mins left in a normal cycle and would not drain ahead of spinning the clothes.     After initial research I decided to replace the drain pump as that seemed to be a common culprit.  Ahead of that I did the basics of cleaning pump filter and ensuring that drain hose was clear of blockages.  Took the machine apart with minor hiccups and eventually installed new drain pump and returned machine to operation.     Now being aware of troubleshooting/diagnostics QC test mode, find that I am stuck in the same place.  Everything seems to work until I get to that magic Step 12 where drain pump is supposed to turn on.  I hear the pump running, but no water is draining.  Have also checked the hose connecting to the water pressure switch as recommended (blowing out any possible blockages).   Am open to ideas or suggestions with thanks..
  11. GE WBVH5200J Washer Minimanual

    Version

    11 downloads

    PUB 31-16536-1
  12. File Name: GE WBVH5200J Washer Minimanual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 21 Aug 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB 31-16536-1 Click here to download this file
  13. Version

    46 downloads

    Models:   WF42H5700*** WF42H5200*** WF455ARG***
  14. File Name: Samsung WF5000H WF6000H Washer Training Presentation File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 19 Aug 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Models:   WF42H5700*** WF42H5200*** WF455ARG*** Click here to download this file
  15. Version

    17 downloads

    Publication # nwWF419 Revision Date 06/17/2013
  16. File Name: Samsung WF419 Washer Fast Track Revision 5 File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 18 Jul 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Publication # nwWF419 Revision Date 06/17/2013 Click here to download this file
  17. Version

    16 downloads

    PUB MFL67307945
  18. File Name: Kenmore LG 796.4107 FL Washer Service Manual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 16 Jul 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB MFL67307945 Click here to download this file
  19. Washer only spins at slow speed. Pump clear and function OK. No water left in drum. Door switch OK. Normal operation otherwise but slow spin leaves clothes wet. Selecting "spin only" results in only slow spin as well.
  20. Hi everyone! On monday I'm going to go out on maybe my 4th front-load washer call that I've done so far. The lady said it fills, but then wouldn't drain. When I asked if it tumbled at all, she said she didn't know, and she didn't try to put it into a drain and spin or anything. Also, no error codes that she knew of.   She was at work when she called me, so I wasn't able to have her try anything, but she's close in town, so I figured I'd just go out there and diagnose it. I should be able to figure it out.   Anyway, I was just hoping you guys would give me any advice on anything to look for in this washer. Any shared experience would be appreciated, as I'm still fairly new at this.   Thank you!
  21. Got a Samsung Front Loading Washer with VRT, MOD: WF409ANW/XAA. Customer complaint is knocking in final spin. Took tubs apart, found some lint inbetween basket and balance ring. Rear bearings seem to be ok, no deflection in front of inner basket when bumping up at several spots. Spider is tight with no tub deflection on the mounting areas. Visual inspection of spider seems ok, no cracks. also no spider deflection holding down on front of tub and pressing down on end of support shaft. The support shaft does show some heat discoloration (almost like blueing) around where the bearings rest. There was no foreign materials between the tubs. bottom of motor did show some rusted residue as if water was sitting in magnetic motor shield. Looks like as if the water seal may have allowed some water through. Bearing movement is very smooth and there seems to be no play in the bearings side to side or in and out. There is wear on the inside surface of the bellow and the outer tub inside front surface.  I don't know how the balance ring should react when off of the tub. seems like the balls that are inside move in an oil of some type b/c they react slow to rotation.  I'm wondering if anyone has seen any problems with the MCU causing harmonic problems with the VRT. maybe the hall sensor not working the way it needs to and the mcu over correcting?  Any help on this would be really appreciated, the machine looks like a grenade was tossed into it and parts are all over the customers laundry room! =)    -John
  22. The dishwasher will not longer run for my wife.   It is a Maytag Quiet Series 400, Model MDB9750BWS (under that is a 10524417LR).   When you open the door there are push buttons along the top of the door that you can select different operating modes - THESE WORK.   Then you are supposed to close the door and on the front panel press START/CANCEL.  This does NOT work.  She tells me for a while she'd press around the area of start and it would eventually kick in but now it will not.   Is this a simple little control panel behind the start button that I can replace or did they build it as one large piece designed to drain my beer fund?   Help is always appreciated along with a link to a part number.   Many thanks,   Dan
  23. This is a reprise of topic 33741 from 4 years ago. Same problem; I'm checking the wiring right now. I noticed that the main control board has a 4 pin male connector (one row of 4) on it (in the upper corner above the 5 vertical lights (but on the back of the board) with no corresponding female connector. Also, the pressure switch (p/n 134431100) has 3 separate male connectors for wires, but only two wires are connected. The third connector has a female connector plugged into it with no wire attached. Hard to say for certain, but the female looks like it's never been crimped. Are these (on the control board or the switch) just extra connections perhaps for use in a different machine? Or am I dealing with a missing part of a wiring harness? (No obvious loose wires that would go into either connection). If there's a way to post photos, I can do that. Thanks, Andy
  24. Morning, I have a question regarding an LG Tromm washer we recently purchased from a previous owner. Washer was working fine, until recently, I noticed washer had leaked water. That got fixed on its own, then noticed that a couple of times, clothes was left damp after cycle ended. And now washer seems to get stuck on rinse cycle for quite a long time as to where it forces me to shut water off and washer itself. Water continuosly pours in non-stop for up 45 mins if I don't shut water off while display show rinse mode and minutes do not change at all. Read and did appliance test as suggested on an previous post "LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error" where I found out water kept on pouring in through detergent dispenser area and no water inlet what so ever when it hit the bleach area. I however do not get any error code and wanted to find out if same part numbers for water valves apply to my model? Any advice and help will be extremely appreciated as clothes are piling up, and not to mention sticky pile on floor after washer failed to properly wash or dry them prior to my giving up on sticken thing. Thank you, eager to hear any suggestions and/or ideas.      
  25. Version

    38 downloads

    Frigidaire washer FAFW4011LW0 tech sheet PUB# 137312800