Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'forums/hall+sensor'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Found 34 results

  1. Whirlpool Washer ATC Thermistor Table

    From the album Washer Repair

  2. In the past week, my Miele G 4225 has started registering a "F02" code.  It appears to go through the whole wash cycle normally (including heating up the water), the fan turns on as it always has during the last 30 or so minutes of the cycle, and then at the very end, the drain pump turns on for several seconds (as always), but then it registers the "F02" code right after the pump & fan stop.  And the Intake/Drain light flashes. I found a tech info manual for g1000/g2000 dishwashers, so I've been able to do the following.  test the temp sensor with a multimeter (resistances were pretty close to what they should be according to the "NTC Sensor Resistance Values" table).  The connector seemed to fit securely Took apart the door to get to the PCB, took off all connectors, swabbed contacts with alcohol.  Since all the wires are bundled together from underneath the unit to the PCB, it would've been EXTREMELY hard to follow the wires the whole way to test them for continuity.  All the wires looked okay, though. Followed instructions to reset settings to factory defaults (then turned off Rinse Aid light - I don't use rinse aid since that reportedly wrecks beer head retention)  Followed the G2420/2430 instructions to delete the fault memory Followed the G2420/2430 instructions to go through the "component test(s)".  Nothing of interest happened. The G2420/2430 instructions also helped me see that: 189 Operating Hours have been logged Software Version 2655 is loaded Other Info: Dishwasher is only around 2 years old Issue is intermittent.  It ran without failure codes after I deleted the fault memory & ran through the component tests.  But it failed the NEXT time I ran a load.  Dishes seem as clean as always, and water definitely heats up. When the dishwasher was about a year old, the outlet it was plugged into almost caught fire (I luckily smelled a burning smell and turned it off).  I assumed this was because the hot wire didn't seem to be securely fastened to the outlet screw when I took apart the singed outlet to replace it.  We bought an old house with all sorts of wacky surprises/issues...  Since then, I noticed that the AC plug always gets warm during the wash cycle, when I assume the heater is on.  It's not warm at the beginning of the cycle, or the end.  Also supporting my theory that the heating element sucks a lot of current is that it seemed to get a lot hotter when the dishwasher was connected to cold water, as opposed to hot water. Can't imagine this has anything to do with anything, but until we re-do our kitchen with new cabinets, I have this hooked up to the kitchen faucet via an attachment salvaged from a portable dishwasher. It's also enclosed in the portable dishwasher's steel cabinet. The drain hose hasn't been extended - just have a 8" galvanized pipe attached to the end so that it doesn't flop off the kitchen sink/drain board. From some other posts from this extremely useful site, I've gathered that not only are the folks who post here extremely helpful, but Miele support is too.  But since it's Sunday, I thought I'd post here to see if anyone here has any ideas for me before I call 800-999-1360 tomorrow. Thanks, and I'm so glad I found this site!    
  3. Hello, our Gas Range is a Jenn Air (Maytag) JGR8890ADP.  This is the dual oven range with two ovens.  The lower oven is a large convection oven; the top oven is like a pizza or pan cake oven, only about 6-7" in height.  Both ovens are controlled by an electronic panel above the range top that is like a long black plastic button membrane.   The problem we have is that the controller (wherever that is) is flaky.  The top oven has not been working so thinking it was the igniter, we changed the igniter but that did not fix the problem.  When we use the electronic panel to turn it on, the temperature displays 100 degrees but that's as far as it goes.  It does not heat up.  We can hear a single relay click but that is all.  No start.  The bottom larger oven works on the BAKE mode but not on Automatic and not on convection.  If we try to get fancy with oven heat preferences, the temperature comes up to about 200 degrees and then stalls and the heat shuts off.  We have to wait for the lower oven to get completely cold before we can start it.  From a cold start it seems to work using the "BAKE -- enter temp -- BAKE" sequence.     Additional clues: for a long time before this (maybe 6 months) the range kept beeping at random in use or not.  We got tired of worrying about it and it finally went away.  The long black plastic control pad is the 2nd we've had, the first being replaced under warranty.  This replacement is about 2 years old but only worked normally for about 6 months.  We do not know now how to trouble shoot this.  Is the long black control membrane (that costs $110) the brains and all we would need to change or ... how should we proceed next ?  Please assist if you can.
  4. Maytag dryer is running continuously, but it only happens with wet clothes in it. After 5 or 6 hours the timer will have not advanced and the tumble and heat are still going. Door switch is fine and the timer is brand new. This model doesn't have a lot of features so I am unsure what else it could be. I ran it with some dry towels for 45 mins and could not re-create the problem. Any thoughts ? Thanks !
  5. Samsung Dryer DV210AGW/XAA

    My Samsung Dryer drum stopped turning after 3 years. I tried a cycle to see if the gas was coming on and it was. It was obviously the belt. I had a repair man take it apart and the belt was off but not broken so he put it back. We tested it and it was fine but now it does not work with the moisture sensor. We can only use the timed dry. I checked the recent hard pipe for the exhaust and it is strong at the roof but it takes over an hour for a normal load. Why would a perfectly good belt come off but more importantly why doesn't the dryer dry in the other cycles ? A connector is not properly connected ????
  6. I've got a built in GE double oven. The top oven does not heat up. I've zeroed in on the temperature sensor based on internet research. I've accessed the sensor but I can't get it out through the inside of the oven. How do I remove the top oven to get to the back of the oven? Any pics or videos would be helpful. With the temperature symptom, are there any other "fixes" while I've got access to the back of the oven?
  7. This is the second motor that has gone bad and GE and most part places will only sell you a complete new blower motor. The problem with this design is there is a smal circuit board with one component thta report the RPM of the blower motor to the main circuit board. when it fails the dryer will shut down after about 10 seconds. I would like to be able to replace the part as it will probaby only be around 25 cents for the part. Just trying to find out what the part number is so I can order on line   Thanks.
  8. Version

    59 downloads

    General troubleshooting guide for hall sensor test, diagnosis, and repair.
  9. File Name: LG Washer LE Error Code Hall Sensor Diagnosis Guide Service Bulletin File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 22 Feb 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper General troubleshooting guide for hall sensor test, diagnosis, and repair. Click here to download this file
  10. I've replaced the drain motor and air gap.  Checked the drain hose for blocks/kinks, tested overflow, raised drain hose loop on the way to the air gap as high as it goes.  Hose from air gap to disposal is clear, plug in disposal inlet removed.  If I shop-vac water out of the sump, making a seal by wrapping a rag around the hose, it will run one cycle.   I *discovered* the HUMIDITY SENSOR above the drain in the sump.  Can anyone tell me if this is part of the drain or startup cycle?  The thing costs $15, so I'll replace it on principal if it's involved. Otherwise, I'm running out of the cheap stuff and face trying a new control module -- not so cheap.   One last thing, which I'll try now, does there need to be another drop in the drain hose between the high point and the air gap?
  11. My Whirlpool Gold refrigerator, model number GS6NBEXQ01 has quit making ice.  It doesn't fill, but the water in the door dispenser still works.  I have also noticed that the IR sensor that controls the dump when the door is open, still flashes even when the flap that senses the door opening is depressed.  Any help would be appreciated!    
  12. File Name: Samsung Tech Tip: Testing Refrigerator Sensors and Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) File Submitter: applianceman97 File Submitted: 31 Jul 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Theory and methods of testing sensors and PCBs applies to all Samsung models. PUB ASC20061103002 Click here to download this file
  13. Version

    68 downloads

    Theory and methods of testing sensors and PCBs applies to all Samsung models. PUB ASC20061103002
  14. I recently completely took apart the above dryer to clean, refinish, repaint, etc...(that was fun)   And normally i take pictures of each step I take for obvious reasons. However in taking the front shroud off the wires came loos from the moisture sensor and I can't figure out how they're supposed to go back on.   There's two blue wires with small spade terminals in the same harness with the door switch. The moisture sensor has two spade connectors at the top and two at the bottom. The blue wires fit both sets.   How do I hook those blue wires back up?
  15. Hi there!  Can someone please help!  I have an ancient (1987) Caloric electric range, model ERR-389.  It is a combination "ME" range that microwaves and cooks in the same oven cavity.  Very space age and rare and I want to keep it working if possible....    Anyway, the oven seems to be off by about 20-30 degrees lower than what it's set at.  It seems more accurate at higher temps, but at lower temps it's really off in its calibration.   The problem is that the digital low temp oven sensor 'thermocouple probe' (Part 0064074 or Y0064074) is NLA from everyone I have checked with, and I have no clue whether it is possible to manually adjust the calibration on this thing.  (The oven also has a separate, high-limit, bulb-type thermostat that somehow separately controls the self-clean cycle).  The range has a digital glass touch control panel that controls the oven and also the electric burners.  It does not seem to have any built in diagnostics, however (it doesnt show error codes, etc., like new digital ranges do).   Is there some way to re-adjust the range temperature?  The owner's manual says nothing about re-calibrating the temp.  Is there a screw somewhere to turn or is there something like a jumper pin on one or more of the control boards behind the control panel, or down on one of the other relay/CPU boards located below the oven? (There are about three or four separate relay boards in this this thing).  Or possibly a special combination of key presses?   Or is the only way to fix this to get a new sensor?  And how can I do so if it's NLA....   Finally, is the sensor even truly broken or is this temperature inaccuracy actually considered 'normal'.   THANKS!!!!!!!!
  16. I can't seem to find the case sensor & case brake parts number for the Samsung 400 series D/W.    I am wondering if the ones for the 800 series are compatible. DD94-01006A & DD94-01005A
  17. Hi,     We have a LG Tromm WM2277HW. The motion position sensor (hall sensor) burns out repeatedly. We have replaced it 4 times in less than 2 years. The machine is sitting on a cement floor and is properly leveled. I load it carefully with items that are about the same density, I do not overload. I am doing laundry for 3 people, so it gets used for about 1 load per day. I use the proper soap and I do not use to much soap. This time the hall sensor only lasted 2 weeks. I am buying these Hall Sensors in pairs now ...... frustrated.   It seams to me there has to me a reason they keep burning out..... I don't really want to go buy a new washing machine but this is ridiculous.  
  18. I have been asked to work on this dryer because the previous technician could not repair.  He has replaced  the electronic  board 3 times & the timer once before he gave up.   I have researched everything on this site pertaining to this model dryer.   The latest posting was a few months ago but no answer was given.  Scotthewolf mentioned a service bulletin on this reacurring problem but I was not able to find a copy.   I read another posting dating back to 2010 about the serial number & having to do with different series, 10, 16, & 24    Different timers for different series. Is there any more information available before I take this job?     The serial number is 23642881EA   The client showed me the old timer & one of the boards.          Thankyou much.
  19. Set for bake @350, relay closes and it starts to heat, then the indicated temp shoots up rapidly but the actual temp is just barely warm. When it cycles at 350 actual temp is  about 100-125. Slightly warm sensor ohms at  about 1.5k. Any ideas?  
  20.   I have a Frigidaire oven that both the broiler and bake elements are not heating. Resistance on bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K).  The controller is an "ES 300" and appears to be functioning properly, fault codes, operational, etc. Door switch functioning, Stove top works, clock works.    Elements not receiving power.  I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.  However, when I actually removed from temp sensor from the circuit and applied power, I received the F3 fault code, and still indicated OL.      Can a faulty temp sensor prevent power from reaching the oven elements?  The service manual states temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.  It seems odd to me that the Fault code was not indicated while the part was installed, yet had no continuity, but when removed, the fault code was displayed.      Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I am ordering the sensor but am still unsure if that is my entire problem.    Thanks Jeff MTC(SS)
  21. Version

    34 downloads

    Analog Pressure Sensor switches by Whirlpool Duet washer (and some Kenmore) model number There are two different APS switches used in Whirlpool Duet washers. Select the correct one by model number. This sheet associates the correct APS with its corresponding washer model number.
  22. File Name: Analog Pressure Sensor switches by Whirlpool Duet washer (and some Kenmore) model number File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 14 Oct 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Analog Pressure Sensor switches by Whirlpool Duet washer (and some Kenmore) model number There are two different APS switches used in Whirlpool Duet washers. Select the correct one by model number. This sheet associates the correct APS with its corresponding washer model number. Click here to download this file
  23. I have a 2002 Kenmore Coldspot side-by-side fridge/freeze - model 10651562102.  Several weeks ago, two unusual things happened at the same time.  1) it wouldn't stop making ice, even after I put the slide on the optical sensor in the "off" position. 2) It would dribble/leak from the supply line, and form a sort of icicle which formed on the ice bin - I guess the water dribbled along the top, and ran forward, landing on the bin.  Here's what I did: 1) Made sure the water supply line wasn't frozen - removed, checked, replaced. 2) Did the "jumper" thing on the control board to ensure it would go into the forced harvest cylce - no problems. 3) Checked the continuity on the supply valve - seemed OK (btw, the water line to the water dispenser worked fine...good pressure, no leaks) 4) Replaced the water supply valve, just in case the freezer valve was faulty. 5) Replaced the two optics boards (emitter/sensor) since have never seen the LED light on at any time since we had it (even though it made ice!)   The unit goes through harvest cycles regularly.  There is no "error" blinking on the optical sensor.  Only problem is when you would expect the unit to call for water, there is no sound indicating the valve is opening (I remember what it sounds like), and no water is dispensed into the ice tray, and no ice being made.   So, any ideas on what else needs to be checked out?  Continuity tests to be done that I'm missing? Thanks for any help here.
  24. From the album Washer Repair

    Buy the replacement hall sensor here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rotor-Position-Sensor/6501KW2002A/1268238
  25. Motor And Hall Sensor Wiring In An LG Washer

    From the album Washer Repair

    Buy the replacement hall sensor here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Rotor-Position-Sensor/6501KW2002A/1268238